Of course you can do whatever you wish, I change mine once a year and the brake fluid every 3-6 months.

 

No change from me Gasman . The info from robertP indicates his position with the PC has afforded him certain knowledge. Im assuming its quality knowledge and it sounds plausible and logical to me with perhaps the exception of the 2000 service. Agreed that 2,000 is not stated as being required in the service manual however those that feel they wish to change earlier than that (as i would do also at @ 5,000km) can do so if they so choose. Turbocharged engines generally deposit more cumbustion bi products into the oil system that NA engines so for me personally i would prefer to keep things as "clean as possible" where possible. Thats not to say you have to do it as Porsche clearly say its all good to 20,000km service interval if you want.

In so far as your comments go on the PSDS cars, again each and everyone to his own. I for one certainly wouldnt want to buy one knowing they had the knackers thrashed out of them since day dot, maybe you would, and you can, (maybe you should) afterall its your money, and as you say you have the P warranty to rely upon which is Kosher . And, my point was not to say P cars arent up to a good flogging from day one, but moreso to point out the clear contradiction with the recommendation in Porsches owners manual. And, those P representatives that promote the harsh driving from day one as being ok, would they do that to their own brand new car and if so let me see one of these guys buy one and then drive it like that. Its nice to be able to walk away after a days flogging knowing its not your car and its also easy to say she'll be right mate , youve got your warranty to rely on but that's no consellation for me.
For me when I buy a new P car its not about testing the warranty, sure i know its there but lets say your car is not a "warranted driving school car" and something blows up and the ecu readout tells the porsche technician the cars been revved ****less i wonder how firm your ground will be?

 

Your common sense seems to say, "listen to the manufacturer, they know best." But you offer no evidence to support and there is lots of contrary evidence that manufacturer's break in is either unnecessary or counterproductive.

What is different about "race engines." The need for reliability? The need for power. The importance of having the rings seat? Gimme a break. They are internal combustion engines, they are the same.

Although I don't know Porsche, I do know engine building, having modified engines by putting in, Ti rods, shaved crankshafts, larger Ti valves, slipper clutchs, kit alternators, backcut gear boxes, cams, overbore, HC pistons, etc, and dyno testing them. That's more than you get from reading the manufacturer's recommendations ...

You say your'e in the engine business for 50 years. Look forward to your providing all the data you have supporting your claim that running an engine hard early isn't the best way to seat piston rings and break in the parts of a modern engine that need breaking in.

.... we do agree on the opinions/backside part ... .

 

I will say up front that I don't have the exact answer to the original 1 that started this thread. I will tell you that the Diesel trucks you see on the HWYs have a simple yet tried and true method of breaking in a engine. Just remember, they aren’t racing, they aren’t getting rebuilt every year or so, they are for making $ and if they don’t run you don’t work.
In regards to a new Diesel engine you want to break them in the way you want them to run. If you want to walk up the big hills loaded w/ 80,000 lbs then you ask for loads going west and run it WFO up every hill you can. If you break it in easy it will run easy. You only have 1 time to get things bedded in and if you want to be able to run WFO when it counts, break it in WFO. <O</O
Again, I will say I don’t have the answer for you just information on how others view this question. <O</O

 

The break in is all about sealing the motors rings. This is pretty much determined in the first few hundred miles.

The worst thing you can do do the motor is baby it. You need the pressure behind the rings to set the rings properly. That does not mean you need to blow past 4000 rpm's. Repeated hard accelerations up to that point will bet the job done.

As to how you can tell if the motor is broken in properly. In the case of a stock motor take it to a dyno. Back in the day when the 996tt's first came out they were suppoe to have 415 bhp. You can convert it to rwhp. The point is your hp can varry all over the place. Up to 50 hp. How well you set the rings will determine the power you see.

 

Dude, you see the contradiction yet miss the point. The way in which Porsche treats their own cars proves that the break in period is not needed. The fact that Porsche fully warranties these cars further proves the point. Look I could care less about the warranty, if I blow something up at the track I'll cut a check for it, but it's important to a lot of buyers.
A GT3 cup and GT3 street car share the same exact short block, those cup cars are flogged from the get go. And you haven't answered my question about the 1000 vs 2000 mile break in, what exactly changed?

 

I guess I'm a total ignoramus, but I don't see the correlation between a Cup car race engine that is rebuilt after X amount of hours and a street car engine that is expected to last 150,000 miles or more before a rebuild. That's apples to oranges in my mind. What am I missing?

 

Just because Porsche warranties these cars for a finite period does not mean that it's best for the engine(s) to ignore the manufacturer's recommendations. We all know that these engines do not break easily, but for a personal car that I plan to hold for awhile, I'll break the engine in as Porsche recommends. My cars and bikes have always run hard, reliably and without engine malfunctions.

It doesn't matter that a CUP car and a street GT3 share the same block. It is how the engine is built; materials used, tolerances, etc... and the longevity ones expects out of it.

 

Maybe...but one thing is for certain....this is just going round and round (nowhere) and ive got better things to do with my time.

 

[quote=cjv;2738752]The break in is all about sealing the motors rings. This is pretty much determined in the first few hundred miles.

Correct.......Crankshaft bearing running surfaces as well.

The worst thing you can do do the motor is baby it.

Absolutely Correct.... the problem for some is finding that balance.

You need the pressure behind the rings to set the rings properly. That does not mean you need to blow past 4000 rpm's. Repeated hard accelerations up to that point will bet the job done.

Correct..... full load and full rpm straight up is not needed nor recommended.

 

[quote=TT Gasman;2738780]Dude, you see the contradiction yet miss the point. The way in which Porsche treats their own cars proves that the break in period is not needed. The fact that Porsche fully warranties these cars further proves the point.

Gasman given your response you have evidently either not read my prior thread properly or you havent absorbed the content in context.

 

Yeah, wtf does Porsche know?

 

I am one of the "others". When I picked up mine we where told that all engines are tested that way!

 

Another Porschephile who went on the tour! Thanks for confirming that I'm not growing senile!

bob

 

speedy what's with the insults? I'm done, it's getting deep in here.