This is the more expensive **DUAL** version of Cargraphic that would be very nice for someone looking for a combination system.

The system has a flap that bypasses the muffler when you want more sound and an extreme free flow system (important for car with ultra high power mod). In one mode, exhaust goes through the cat and muffler as normal. In the louder mode, some exhaust bypasses muffler completely. See pics below.

It seems you have the quiet TUV version with flap? This means dual: quiet + medium, implying best of both worlds. If the quiet mode indeed does sound like a PSE on a C2S 997, then it is indeed supremely fine sounding. ***If I don't have one already I would buy this. No kidding.*** Anyone with a 997.2 Turbo who is looking for a combination system should jump on this immediately if price is good. Anything below 3000 is a steal - plus 6% commission to me. 2500 would be highway robbery. 2000 my commission goes up to 10%. He he.

 

I guess you can think of it as a bargain. Ruf's German price list shows the exhaust conversion as E5,500. It seems you at least get tips for that price. Man, the prices for his mods are heavy. Interesting that he only goes to 650 hp on the turbo with a engine rebuild including titanium connecting rods. Even the 600 hp conversion needs new turbos.

 

The price with quad tips is 7995$, without tips 4500$, gotta draw the line somewhere, besides I already have quad tips from fabspeed.
Mine is Ruf pn R97 100 111 12
I have a vid I can fwd to whoever is interested, no point in posting it here.

 

For those living on the edge - checking your back pressure. Note that the test here is done merely as a diagnostic for problem with obstruction, not to indicate exhaust performance as there is too much variation from cars to cars.
True test of performance is dyno, not that you will see much gain with exhaust change alone; for true power gain, you need an ECU tune once you have added freer-flow exhaust in your car.









http://www.tuneruniversity.<WBR>com/blog/2012/08/how-to-<WBR>measure-exhaust-backpressure-<WBR>for-smarter-exhaust-upgrades/

Most enthusiasts know that reducing backpressure in the exhaust system will typically yield a performance gain. However, there is much speculation about what exactly makes a big difference and what does not. Sure, a bigger pipe will almost always reduce backpressure as will a higher flow muffler with either a straight through or significantly less baffled design.

But what about the catalytic converter, is it really a restriction in your application? On some cars it may be a huge restriction, while on others it doesn’t seem to make much difference. What about the resonator? Is it really causing any back pressure at all? Is the back pressure mostly coming from the cat back? or is it just from the axle back?
Knowing where in the system the restriction is can be useful if you’re on a budget, or, if you’re trying to get the most power out of your system and want to identify areas of additional improvement without excessive cost.
Like the intake restriction measurement technique I’ve described elsewhere on the site, the methods that I want to tell you about today allow you to pinpoint EXACTLY where the restrictions are.
Today I’m just going to talk about how you test an existing system (and perhaps the modifications you make after that). In other words, how to figure out where restrictions are in the stock system, and how to measure changes in backpressure caused by modification you make. In a later article, I’ll explain how you can actually test mufflers, resonators and cats OFF the car so that you can locate a very nice flowing cat, muffler, or resonator at the junk yard or exhaust shop in case you might want to use junk yard parts to create a great inexpensive sleeper performance exhaust system.
First, some bad news
Bad news is, it’s very difficult to get pinpoint accurate back pressure measurements because exhaust pressures are pulses, not constants. In other words, because exhaust gasses go back and forth up and down the extractors and exhaust system VERY fast, you will get a very bouncy needle on the vacuum gauge we use to measure back pressure.
Good news is, it really doesn’t matter much because you’re going to be mostly interested in the “peak” number and you’re also going to be looking for BIG changes, not tiny ones, so the measurement still works out quite well. Just know you’ll probably have to have a friend help you when you go out to take measurements.
.....
If you wanted to find the back pressure being caused by the catalytic converter, you simply plumb in the fitting before the cat, do a WOT run and find the peak pressure. Then you come back, switch to the bung behind the cat, and do another run. You should then be able to see the difference between the two.

To make this job even easier, instead of a vacuum gauge, use a mechanical differential pressure gauge (Dwyer makes a lot). There are a few digital manometers/differential pressure meters that are up for the task. If you decide to use one of those (like I use for intake testing), then you need to make sure it can take 20psi spikes of pressure without any problem. A digital one might be ideal for solo runs since you can usually get a datalog output with digital meters.

Most exhaust systems are going to be in the upper 8-10psi range under full load. A decent aftermarket exhaust will peak out at around 4-5psi with some of the very large ones peaking around 1-2psi, though, once you get lower than 4 or 5psi, it’s kind of a diminishing returns kinda thing. It’s going to depend though on the car, the exhaust design, if there’s a turbo or not, and a number of other factors. The measurements are more comparative (ie, they are useful against themselves not necessarily against other people’s measurements) than anything.

 

Ah Chris but the advantage of posting it here is this thread is gonna go on forever with my non-stop rambling and more people will see it.

Kidding aside, I just don't want anyone creating trouble or harassment in this thread and it's absolutely off limit to the non-stop bickering in the common forum. Other than that, anything goes. You've seen FVD clip, Tubi clip, people trying to buy and sell exhausts here, etc. As long as the intention is good and the communication courteous and civilized, it's ok with me. And honest, now you pique my interest and I *would* like to hear.

At the least post it onto youtube so people could hear, a RUF exhaust is very rare and this price to me is a tremendous deal and a great alternative. If you don't know how I could ask my daughter who is supposedly a youtube expert :-) to help, but this might mean some free surgical consultation/advice for her dad in the future LOL. BTW, she did say it's very easy; I believe you actually just click and drop the file to be uploaded onto the youtube site. You do have to sign up for an account with youtube first, which is easy using gmail email address; might as well, it's the future.

 

I'll Ty, thanks man.

 

 

Thanks Bobby!
It's not a loud, boomy exhaust. It's a refined German exhaust, I love it!
I have others I'll try to put together too.
C

 

I would love to see more videos of that custom exhaust... I have been thinking of switching back to my stock exhaust after detecting the sweet smell of coolant lately so as to avoid any issues with my aftermarket warranty. This fvd/ruf customized setup looks like it could be a really nice choice to retain stock look without the stock honda-ish exhaust note..

 

I'm making some better vids w my tech savvy daughter this weekend.
This is definatly an "adult exhaust".
C

 

Chris, congrats that you've found your audio heaven. For those interested, would you pls comment on overall loudness between this and some of the more common ones? My guess is it's a little bit louder than stock, about same loudness as Tubi, and not as loud as the regular FVD?

Also to buy one, simple to go through Rhonda at FVD? 4.5k is indeed very reasonable for a Ruf product!

For those curious about some of what I've been rambling non-stop about, in particular why stock exhaust is boring because it sounds like a hair-dryer, this is an outstanding video to learn. Listen to the first part (stock cold start), it's a continuous smooth sound, like a Lexus or, of course, a hair dryer. Then immediately followed by the second part (FVD Ruf cold start), you could hear the crackling, or staccato, and the more "musical" nature of the exhaust note. This is what separates the man from the boy so to speak, and makes after-market exhaust an extremely important addition, not just because of its free-flowing nature, but also for its enjoyable sound.
(And no I've not been smoking anything LOL; if you can't hear what I am talking about, it's your own da*n fault.)

PS I recently picked up an M3 for my wife (automatic, set up to start in second gear for the lady, LOL) and the exhaust sound of the V8 M3 is a reminder of just how much a Turbo messes up the exhaust sound by muffling its sound. Those who don't have an after-market exhaust yet, get one, I guarantee you won't regret it.

 

I think the 997TT will always sound like a hair-dryer no matter what exhaust you get... There is some "good options" out there like EP, Ruff, TUBI, GMG, etc but it will always sound like a hair dryer... The Turbos don't help with the noise... But sure they make the 997TT one of the fastest car I ever had....

I just don't want to see people with the heart broken in the Forum after they spend crazy money for something that for sure won't get you where you want to be...

 

Yes, get in touch w Rhonda . It's louder than stock, slightly less than tubi and regular fvd.
Here's some some images of a 996tt exhaust (pete95zhn), the 997 is very similar but different.
What ruf does is remove the two stock cats and replace with a 100cell hjs hd cat and dog leg a second outlet off the j pipe. They also dilate the secondary resonator pipes on a 996, these are already bigger on a 997 p, therefor not required. The key is removing the two restrictive factory cats and the clamshell, which is exactly what fvd does, and replace with the hjs hd 100 or 200 cell cat. Fuchs in Munich is the company that does it for Ruf, they do a slightly different version for fvd in conjunction with mm, also in Munich. Contrary to previous information, either fvd or ruf both use your used core. Ask anybody who's actually done a ruf conversion, ie my brother for one.
I have other vids I'll upload tomorrow.

 

More images

 

Chris,

Do you like it better than the old Tubi?