Changed plugs, coils, exhaust manifold gaskets, car wont go over 13 psi...
Changed plugs, coils, exhaust manifold gaskets, car wont go over 13 psi...
Guys, i replaced all 6 coil packs, replaced spark plugs,air filter, replaced exhaust manifold gaskets, and the gaskets that are in between the turbo and headers. replaced the o-ring rubbers on each intercooler hose. removed diverter valves to inspect them.. now the car is only boosting to 13 psi, and i get almost no boost under 3,000 and it takes a while to boost...
no CELs, idle is fine. what the hell do u think it could be ?
no CELs, idle is fine. what the hell do u think it could be ?
I might be all wrong here but my mechtold me some stuff takes up to ten hours of running to get the car back to normal. This was in reference to IPD and such but it might hold some water. Run it hard for a buit and see if that works.
If the car won't boost properly it's likely caused by either the turbos not getting enough air to make pressure (think air leak somewhere in the system) or because the ECU is pulling boost (and probably timing) because it detects a problem and is protecting the car.
A pressurized smoke test will usually reveal an air leak, although minute ones can be awfully difficult to track down, while querying the ECU for Diagnostic Trouble Codes via the OBD2 port can point you in the right direction if this is a "limp mode" problem. DTC's may be present even if there is no CEL. There are many, many potential reasons why a car might revert to limp mode so it's a wise idea to do a complete diagnostic before starting to change parts and "fixing" things that ain't broke. If the car was running fine before you did the aforementioned work, rechecking all of that would be a good place to start and a smoke test could help pinpoint the exact location if something didn't seat quite properly when reassembled. Good luck!
A pressurized smoke test will usually reveal an air leak, although minute ones can be awfully difficult to track down, while querying the ECU for Diagnostic Trouble Codes via the OBD2 port can point you in the right direction if this is a "limp mode" problem. DTC's may be present even if there is no CEL. There are many, many potential reasons why a car might revert to limp mode so it's a wise idea to do a complete diagnostic before starting to change parts and "fixing" things that ain't broke. If the car was running fine before you did the aforementioned work, rechecking all of that would be a good place to start and a smoke test could help pinpoint the exact location if something didn't seat quite properly when reassembled. Good luck!
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also as Emre said check the VTG actuator arms to make sure they operate properly.
Pull the drivers side one down, and push passenger side up. They should close or move again when you release your finger
Pull the drivers side one down, and push passenger side up. They should close or move again when you release your finger
ok i will. i have a feelings its something with the turbo. we had to remove the actuator mechanism on the passenger side to get to the plugs, and we removed both BRV's to inspect them for cracking.





