TheRock's 997.1 TT Spark Plug / Coils DIY Guide - Updated
 

OK Guys,

I know many of you have accessed this DIY in the past, and wanted to ensure you could find it in the future..

While I was working on other DIYs, I used the opportunity to clean this one up and performance tune so the file was not so large. Should flow and read better and is 1/4 the download size while still maintaining plenty of clear images.

Due to the change etc., I have a new link to access it below.

As mentioned in the past, I host these on my personal web server, so when it gets a lot of traffic, it may flake.... just try again until it works.

LINK TO THEROCK'S 997 TURBO SPARK PLUG / COIL DIY

As always, enjoy, and let me know if it helps....

DC

This helped me a great deal when I did my plugs. Lots of great info.
Thanks for doing it.

i'm totally saving this file. Thanks Rock, all the other past DIY's by other expert members have expired image links. Because I don't have access to an engine lift can I still use your DIY?

Get some Knee pads dude.

Absolutely! You can accomplish this with a jack and stands...Just have to get on the ground more. You can jack it up, put it on stands and use the jack to hold/lower the engine. The rest is the same...

Hope that helps.

DC

Has anyone used to method but without loosening the header?

I'm assuming if I loosen the header I will need new header gaskets?

Can I use female torx sockets instead of wrenches?

When you suggest unclipping the hard boost lines in the engine compartment, how is that done?

Thanks all.

Hi,

You do not HAVE to loosen the headers, just makes the install a bit easier in that you can jiggle the turbo around for clearance. You DO NOT necessarily need new gaskets. They are all metal compression gaskets. Not expensive at all, but I have re-used several times with no issue, so not absolutely necessary...

You can use Torx sockets or wrenches, whatever you have and whatever works. I have and use both, depending on space and application.

I included how the Inlet ducts (hard boost...If I am understanding what you are referring too?) come off. You detach at the cool side of Turbo, and at the Air Breather side, and then there is a compression type/grommet fitting that they push down in to. It is extremely tight and you have to pull very hard. Also a real B*** to get back in...patience and bull nut it back in :)

Good luck. Hope that helps...And remember there are always other options, this is just mine.

DC

Great tips, thank you.

Any advice on the header bolts? pb blaster (or similar) and heat?

Sure...I might suggest just loosening the manifold end(at the block side....not the Turbo side) . That will still allow you to move the turbos enough....and much easier to remove. You should not need any PB or anything else. The 3 bolts at the Turbo flange are more difficult to get at...especially the top one on the driver side...I made a special wrench for that after the dealer and I could not get the performance headers to NOT leak :)

BTW...the PB Blaster actually creates heat through chemical reaction....one of the reasons it works well.


DC

On the subject of PB Blaster... and the heat it creates. I had some pieces of the Wall Foam Board used in the construction of some newer homes. I used them to lay under where I sprayed the PB Blaster when I was changing my Cats to protect the garage floor.

You can see the hefty holes it melted into them....Just thought it was interesting :)

DC


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...9532ca31cc.jpg

i'm about to fit new plugs when I fit the new exhaust , this information is fantastic! thanks.

This DIY helped me a lot. I didn't loosen the headers at all either. I did it on the floor in a tiny one car garage. Just make sure to get the car up high enough on jack stands. I used a jack to drop the engine a bit, and it opened up just enough room to get the driver's side front coil and plug out. Thanks TheRock!

Glad you all found it useful/helpful....And yes, there are various options/approaches to it,
I just tried to outline all of the parts that may/should be removed for the easiest install. Not all steps are absolutely necessary.

DC

I agree. I used some of the rocks steps especially some tools needed to reach certain areas.

CRG, any tips on doing this without loosening the headers?

I've done a lot of work on my cars, but for whatever reason, I'm dreading this one.