Aquamist HFS-3 wiring diagram - 997.1 Turbo with VTGs
#1
Aquamist HFS-3 wiring diagram - 997.1 Turbo with VTGs
We've seen a number of threads popping up on this topic and people asking for help and always referencing the 996tt diagram which doesn't really match up well against the 997 wiring/colour coding.
We worked with Richard@Aquamist to get the diagram updated and have the green USER harness included in the wiring as well which we found to be important in some situations.
Without further ado, here you go folks:
Dzenno@PTF
NOTE: If you're wiring this kit into a harness that will use a standalone ECU such as an AEM Infinity make sure that during any firmware updates to the standalone ECU you physically disconnect the power on your Aquamist controller prior to upgrading firmware. This is NOT required if using the OEM DME with a Cobb Accessport at any time. Leaving the meth kit plugged in, even with the gauge off, can/will cause the kit to spray at 100% duty as the firmware upgrade sends a signal on the wiring that simulates a 100% fuel injector duty cycle which can cause your motor to get hydrolocked with meth. Map switching, updates to calibration, etc will never trigger this issue. This only and specifically applies to firmware upgrades which are rare/infrequent.
We worked with Richard@Aquamist to get the diagram updated and have the green USER harness included in the wiring as well which we found to be important in some situations.
Without further ado, here you go folks:
Dzenno@PTF
NOTE: If you're wiring this kit into a harness that will use a standalone ECU such as an AEM Infinity make sure that during any firmware updates to the standalone ECU you physically disconnect the power on your Aquamist controller prior to upgrading firmware. This is NOT required if using the OEM DME with a Cobb Accessport at any time. Leaving the meth kit plugged in, even with the gauge off, can/will cause the kit to spray at 100% duty as the firmware upgrade sends a signal on the wiring that simulates a 100% fuel injector duty cycle which can cause your motor to get hydrolocked with meth. Map switching, updates to calibration, etc will never trigger this issue. This only and specifically applies to firmware upgrades which are rare/infrequent.
Last edited by proTUNING Freaks; 06-09-2015 at 10:15 AM.
#2
Great info.
I'll ask this because I'm sure those of us who have a working setup will wonder.
Do you suggest changing the IDC signal over to the green harness?
Other than that. Glad it's finally released and based off of 997.1tt ecu wire colors.
One last thing.
Do you suggest keeping with the factory "100% IDC" triggering. Or move to a 70/30 IDC/Boost split
I'll ask this because I'm sure those of us who have a working setup will wonder.
Do you suggest changing the IDC signal over to the green harness?
Other than that. Glad it's finally released and based off of 997.1tt ecu wire colors.
One last thing.
Do you suggest keeping with the factory "100% IDC" triggering. Or move to a 70/30 IDC/Boost split
Last edited by Mitchy; 06-09-2015 at 10:16 AM.
#3
Yes, the above is the recommended setup as tested and confirmed over the past year running both the OEM DME with a Cobb Accessport as well as the AEM Infinity standalone on the 997.1tt platform. Let me know if any other questions at all.
Dzenno@PTF
Dzenno@PTF
#4
Great stuff Dzenno, rep for solving a longstanding confusion ...
Couple of Q's
What ned additions will the green harness wiring provide?
Where to wire the purple led dim wire? Im thinking to route it to the tail light switch wire, but not sure which pin on the connector to use. Any help would be appreciated ...
Cheers
Abdulla
Couple of Q's
What ned additions will the green harness wiring provide?
Where to wire the purple led dim wire? Im thinking to route it to the tail light switch wire, but not sure which pin on the connector to use. Any help would be appreciated ...
Cheers
Abdulla
#5
We haven't hooked up the dimmer circuit in this case. The green connector is just a better way of configuring the controller for injector duty given how the HFS-3 controller works provided what we've seen while testing with Richard.
#6
Awesome! Thanks so much Dzenno! It was bothering me a bit how some vendors that push meth so hard never took the opportunity to help the guys on here with this info in any level of detail. Really nice to see a vendor come through with it and man am I glad to have you guys around! -Pete
#7
Hi all ..
I wired the aquamist according to this new diagram and I ran into a problem ...
First crank for the car and the f-idc light on the control module is not flickering at all, when I blip the throttle the red (thresh) light comes on, but no idc signal ...
Do I have to make any change to make this diagram work?
Im thinking maybe I should just dig back in and wire it the original way without the green harness
Any suggestions?
I wired the aquamist according to this new diagram and I ran into a problem ...
First crank for the car and the f-idc light on the control module is not flickering at all, when I blip the throttle the red (thresh) light comes on, but no idc signal ...
Do I have to make any change to make this diagram work?
Im thinking maybe I should just dig back in and wire it the original way without the green harness
Any suggestions?
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#9
Hi ..
Yes I did, went exactly as described in the manual. Till I crank up.
If I disconnect the green harness the thres light is not triggered, and when testing with the jumpers the s on the gauge flickered with throttle. So the idc signal is registered and triggeres the threshold but would not lifht the green led ..
Didn't test it any further ... Could I hookup the green wire from the ecu harness to the same pin? That should trigger the damn led to react ...
#10
Just follow the manual and change the jumper so that the gauge will indicate the IDC rather than meth flow.
That should let you know that the system is receiving the IDC signal correctly.
With that said, I kept the 'old' wiring, Not so much as to be a rebel.. but just because my old way seemed to work, and I have the Sub and everything re-installed.
That should let you know that the system is receiving the IDC signal correctly.
With that said, I kept the 'old' wiring, Not so much as to be a rebel.. but just because my old way seemed to work, and I have the Sub and everything re-installed.
#11
Just follow the manual and change the jumper so that the gauge will indicate the IDC rather than meth flow.
That should let you know that the system is receiving the IDC signal correctly.
With that said, I kept the 'old' wiring, Not so much as to be a rebel.. but just because my old way seemed to work, and I have the Sub and everything re-installed.
That should let you know that the system is receiving the IDC signal correctly.
With that said, I kept the 'old' wiring, Not so much as to be a rebel.. but just because my old way seemed to work, and I have the Sub and everything re-installed.
I did just that, did it with the new wiring, then rewired the original way and disconnected the green harness completely from the ecu and tested with the idc jumpers again, both gave the same result ( both s+b lights flicker with throttle) ... So the system is getting the idc signal in both wiring diagrams . But the green led never came on once, I think it might be defective.
Still worried to use it though.
#12
@TT.BRN, what is the version of your HFS-3 controller? What is the colour of the board and serial number? You can open the controller box and take some close up pics of the front and back and post them up.
#13
Update: worked with Richard to solve them problem, was a damages red wire on the molex harness .... All works well just working to get the green led to work now ....