My spun camshaft story
#46
08-02-2018, 03:41 PM
Thanks, yeah I gave the mechanic a green light to replace anything he thought would be helpful or proactive. He hasn't mentioned the coolant tank. It is also accessible from the top with engine in.....so, maybe not one of those engine out have to do items.
#47
08-02-2018, 06:10 PM
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Location: GTA, Ontario, Canada
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It's easier to do with engine out...may save a couple bucks on labour. change your driveshaft flexdisc while engine is out too, since the driveshaft has already been disconnected. There's another thread titled "things to do while engine is out" which has more tips. I posted the complete list of hoses if you are changing them.
#48
08-03-2018, 08:37 AM
It's easier to do with engine out...may save a couple bucks on labour. change your driveshaft flexdisc while engine is out too, since the driveshaft has already been disconnected. There's another thread titled "things to do while engine is out" which has more tips. I posted the complete list of hoses if you are changing them.
#49
08-03-2018, 10:56 AM
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Location: GTA, Ontario, Canada
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It isn't a Porsche part number because Porsche thinks you should change the whole driveshaft lol. It's on RMEuropean.com. if you can't find it I will dig up the part number but it is there if you search for flexdisc on that site.
#51
01-16-2019, 06:04 PM
I got the P0021 and it would come and go. I would clear it with my scanner and within a few hundred miles, it would pop again. It got progressively worse, to the point that it would be triggered with only about 5-10 miles of driving it.
My motor has about 27,000 miles and the cam actuator selenoids were still the original ones. I also noticed that my torque and power down low was a little sluggish, which is a symptom that the cam is getting stuck in the advanced position. At WOT, the car ran perfect.
I replaced the faulty one at bank 1. After I replaced bank 1 (really easy to get to - maybe a 5 minute job), the car ran considerably better down low. Much smoother and felt incredible. The engine light/error did not come back right away as usual...but within 300 miles of driving the car (spirited driving, mind you), the engine light came back, except this time, it was pointing to bank 2.
Well, I replaced # 2 - - I have about 300 miles now since then, and the problem hasn't come back yet. The car still runs great and no engine light yet.
I feel confident this was the problem in my case. These parts wear out. If you take a close look at these actuators, they are driven by a huge magnet that opens and closes and regulates the amount of oil flow. The are constantly working on and off and on and off...they can wear out. I think in my case, bank 1 was considerably more worn than 2...and when 1 was working great, then the 2 was not able to keep up.
Each of those cam actuator selenoids are about US$ 250-300 per side. It is worth replacing them before going through the trouble of bringing down the motor. Sometimes, replacing the oil alone can clear any debris that could get stuck in there. Sometimes, that is not enough and those puppies can get dirty dirty...(I don't think there is any way of cleaning them). I would replace these before replacing sensors or other items.
Hope this insight helps someone.
Angel
My motor has about 27,000 miles and the cam actuator selenoids were still the original ones. I also noticed that my torque and power down low was a little sluggish, which is a symptom that the cam is getting stuck in the advanced position. At WOT, the car ran perfect.
I replaced the faulty one at bank 1. After I replaced bank 1 (really easy to get to - maybe a 5 minute job), the car ran considerably better down low. Much smoother and felt incredible. The engine light/error did not come back right away as usual...but within 300 miles of driving the car (spirited driving, mind you), the engine light came back, except this time, it was pointing to bank 2.
Well, I replaced # 2 - - I have about 300 miles now since then, and the problem hasn't come back yet. The car still runs great and no engine light yet.
I feel confident this was the problem in my case. These parts wear out. If you take a close look at these actuators, they are driven by a huge magnet that opens and closes and regulates the amount of oil flow. The are constantly working on and off and on and off...they can wear out. I think in my case, bank 1 was considerably more worn than 2...and when 1 was working great, then the 2 was not able to keep up.
Each of those cam actuator selenoids are about US$ 250-300 per side. It is worth replacing them before going through the trouble of bringing down the motor. Sometimes, replacing the oil alone can clear any debris that could get stuck in there. Sometimes, that is not enough and those puppies can get dirty dirty...(I don't think there is any way of cleaning them). I would replace these before replacing sensors or other items.
Hope this insight helps someone.
Angel
Also, does anyone have a tutorial on how to replace them?
Many thanks (in advance)
#52
01-16-2019, 11:27 PM
Before water cooled turbos, cars needed turbo timers to keep the hot oil circulating for a bit after driving. I wonder if over the years these actuators suffer from oil coking themselves.
#53
04-22-2020, 01:06 PM
doesn't do it every time.
no on the turbo oil side, the scavenge pump is gear driven off the front of the engine
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