Go Back  6SpeedOnline - Porsche Forum and Luxury Car Resource > Porsche (Present) > 997 Turbo / GT2
Reload this Page >

If you have encountered P0021 or P0011 or any other cam advancement errors or issue

Notices
997 Turbo / GT2 20062012 Turbo discussion on the 997 model Porsche 911 Twin Turbo.

If you have encountered P0021 or P0011 or any other cam advancement errors or issue

 
  #31  
Old 10-17-2016, 09:53 AM
TAILWAG's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 924
Rep Power: 75
TAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond repute
Originally Posted by vbb View Post
You're actually right... probably just as cost effective to buy a new actuator for the side that has failed and have that put on (with an oil change as well, because it couldn't hurt) rather than swapping and driving around waiting for the CEL to come back. In fact, now that I've cleared the code, if (and probably when) it pops back up, I'll just get the new acutator installed. That is the better plan. Thanks.

The mechanic seems to think this is the problem by the way... that the actuator just fails after time. I can live with that, though it is annoying nonetheless.



Yeah, there's an ocean of difference between replacing the actuators and having that fix the problem vs. having to do an entire cam job. I don't have a warranty and didn't get one simply because this is a "toy" that I plan to drive maybe 300 or 400 miles a month, max. That said, as with any used and fairly expensive car, you always hope to avoid the doomsday scenario where you get hit with a $5K+ repair bill. In fact, one of the motivating factors in selling my previous 997.2 non-turbo with PDK was that I didn't want to have a failed transmission and end up having to spend $14K on a total replacement. Figured the 997.1TT Mezger is old faithful, right?

Let's just say I'm hoping that the actuator is all I need.
Good luck man - yes, worth it giving the actuator a shot first. Let us know how it works out.
 
  #32  
Old 10-17-2016, 02:28 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 393
Rep Power: 39
NY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud of
Originally Posted by TAILWAG View Post
Good luck man - yes, worth it giving the actuator a shot first. Let us know how it works out.
Definitely let us know how it works out. Best of luck to you!
 
  #33  
Old 10-18-2016, 07:23 AM
vbb
vbb is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 52
Rep Power: 10
vbb will become famous soon enoughvbb will become famous soon enough
Originally Posted by TAILWAG View Post
Good luck man - yes, worth it giving the actuator a shot first. Let us know how it works out.
So a fairly strange thing happened that I thought was worth mentioning. I reset the cel, and it came back on after about eight or nine miles of driving which confirmed for me that it wasn't just going to stay off. I reset the cel again and then put the car in sport mode. I must have driven another 20 miles since, and the light still has not come back on. I was not driving especially hard or anything, but for some reason, sport mode seems to have at least increased the intervals at which the light comes back on. I put the car back in my garage and haven't driven it since, but still no cel.

Don't get me wrong, I am still going to get a new actuator and have that swapped out along with the oil, but just wondering if somehow sport mode affects this particular issue. It should be noted that, thankfully, my car is still not behaving strangely or anything. It drives fine. I hope that's a good sign.
 
  #34  
Old 10-18-2016, 08:20 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 393
Rep Power: 39
NY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud ofNY6SPEEDER has much to be proud of
Originally Posted by vbb View Post
So a fairly strange thing happened that I thought was worth mentioning. I reset the cel, and it came back on after about eight or nine miles of driving which confirmed for me that it wasn't just going to stay off. I reset the cel again and then put the car in sport mode. I must have driven another 20 miles since, and the light still has not come back on. I was not driving especially hard or anything, but for some reason, sport mode seems to have at least increased the intervals at which the light comes back on. I put the car back in my garage and haven't driven it since, but still no cel.

Don't get me wrong, I am still going to get a new actuator and have that swapped out along with the oil, but just wondering if somehow sport mode affects this particular issue. It should be noted that, thankfully, my car is still not behaving strangely or anything. It drives fine. I hope that's a good sign.
I remember reading some similar stories about guys clearing the code then beating the **** out of the car for a little bit and it never coming back. Strange, but I'm starting to really believe that the issue lies in the actuators and not the cams themselves. If that is indeed true, then we can finally lay this issue to rest as I'm sure most people would be ok with spending $500-600 as opposed to $5000-6000.
 
  #35  
Old 10-18-2016, 01:15 PM
TAILWAG's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 924
Rep Power: 75
TAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond repute
Originally Posted by NY6SPEEDER View Post
I remember reading some similar stories about guys clearing the code then beating the **** out of the car for a little bit and it never coming back. Strange, but I'm starting to really believe that the issue lies in the actuators and not the cams themselves. If that is indeed true, then we can finally lay this issue to rest as I'm sure most people would be ok with spending $500-600 as opposed to $5000-6000.
When you "beat the ****" out of the car, oil pressure and heat increase...if there are any particles stuck in the orifices on the actuator, it is possible that they are free out with the added heat/pressure. When in sport mode, there is a little more boost and I would think everything is working a little harder; is it working hard enough to free up any particles blocking the access of the oil in the actuator? I guess it is possible.

There is no doubt that actuators go bad - it is a wear item.
There is also no doubt that some cams are troublesome as they are getting stuck in the "high" position. I think they are both problems that are not necessarily related to one another.
 
  #36  
Old 10-18-2016, 06:39 PM
vbb
vbb is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 52
Rep Power: 10
vbb will become famous soon enoughvbb will become famous soon enough
Originally Posted by TAILWAG View Post
When you "beat the ****" out of the car, oil pressure and heat increase...if there are any particles stuck in the orifices on the actuator, it is possible that they are free out with the added heat/pressure. When in sport mode, there is a little more boost and I would think everything is working a little harder; is it working hard enough to free up any particles blocking the access of the oil in the actuator? I guess it is possible.

There is no doubt that actuators go bad - it is a wear item.
There is also no doubt that some cams are troublesome as they are getting stuck in the "high" position. I think they are both problems that are not necessarily related to one another.
Yeah, I wasn't beating on the car, I just had been driving in normal, and cleared the code once at a gas station, then a second time when I got to my destination about 8 miles down the road, then put it in sport mode for the "scenic route" drive back home and noticed that the cel stayed off the whole time on the way back. I don't think I was driving any harder than I was driving when I had it in normal mode, and certainly wasn't beating the **** out of it. It could all just be coincidence to be honest, but I thought it was worth noting for this discussion.

It also seems reasonable to expect that the actuators can wear out over time, though it seems others have experienced this earlier into the life of the car than mine. Again, the most positive sign I'm seeing is that my car has been running normally. That points more to an actuator "acting up" than a full blown cam job... I hope.
 
  #37  
Old 02-06-2017, 02:25 PM
aer
aer is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2015
Age: 49
Posts: 3
Rep Power: 0
aer is on a distinguished road
Any chance anyone knows the size of the external torx socket you need to remove the actuator?
 
  #38  
Old 02-07-2017, 03:11 PM
bsh
bsh is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 135
Rep Power: 15
bsh is a name known to allbsh is a name known to allbsh is a name known to allbsh is a name known to allbsh is a name known to allbsh is a name known to all
Originally Posted by aer View Post
Any chance anyone knows the size of the external torx socket you need to remove the actuator?
My guess is E10.
 
  #39  
Old 02-07-2017, 07:29 PM
therock88's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pleasantville!
Posts: 1,346
Rep Power: 160
therock88 has a reputation beyond reputetherock88 has a reputation beyond reputetherock88 has a reputation beyond reputetherock88 has a reputation beyond reputetherock88 has a reputation beyond reputetherock88 has a reputation beyond reputetherock88 has a reputation beyond reputetherock88 has a reputation beyond reputetherock88 has a reputation beyond reputetherock88 has a reputation beyond reputetherock88 has a reputation beyond repute
Originally Posted by aer View Post
Any chance anyone knows the size of the external torx socket you need to remove the actuator?
Appears to be an E-8. See attached guide for the process.

CKICK HERE

DC
 
  #40  
Old 07-12-2017, 06:37 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 220
Rep Power: 20
Carlitos way is just really niceCarlitos way is just really niceCarlitos way is just really niceCarlitos way is just really niceCarlitos way is just really nice
I'm sorry to revive this thread but I need to know the exact part numbers of both camshaft actuator solenoids.

1- 99710530373 and what is the other one?
2- ?

Thanks a lot!
Carl
 
  #41  
Old 08-11-2017, 02:22 PM
dinorocz's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NYC : Miami
Age: 40
Posts: 1,983
Rep Power: 122
dinorocz has a reputation beyond reputedinorocz has a reputation beyond reputedinorocz has a reputation beyond reputedinorocz has a reputation beyond reputedinorocz has a reputation beyond reputedinorocz has a reputation beyond reputedinorocz has a reputation beyond reputedinorocz has a reputation beyond reputedinorocz has a reputation beyond reputedinorocz has a reputation beyond reputedinorocz has a reputation beyond repute
Originally Posted by Carlitos way View Post
I'm sorry to revive this thread but I need to know the exact part numbers of both camshaft actuator solenoids.

1- 99710530373 and what is the other one?
2- ?

Thanks a lot!
Carl
same part number.
 
  #42  
Old 08-11-2017, 04:02 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 220
Rep Power: 20
Carlitos way is just really niceCarlitos way is just really niceCarlitos way is just really niceCarlitos way is just really niceCarlitos way is just really nice
Originally Posted by dinorocz View Post
same part number.
Thanks dinorocz, believe it or not decided to drive my car in Sport mode like a madman for a while and the Check Engine light went away!!!! I'm so happy right now, no need to change anything
 
  #43  
Old 08-14-2017, 09:22 AM
TAILWAG's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 924
Rep Power: 75
TAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond repute
Originally Posted by Carlitos way View Post
Thanks dinorocz, believe it or not decided to drive my car in Sport mode like a madman for a while and the Check Engine light went away!!!! I'm so happy right now, no need to change anything
Funny how that works, huh? LOL.

How long ago did you change your oil?
 
  #44  
Old 08-14-2017, 09:26 AM
TAILWAG's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 924
Rep Power: 75
TAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond reputeTAILWAG has a reputation beyond repute
Originally Posted by turboslut View Post
The labor $ you will spend (if not doing it yourself) of swapping actuators and seeing if the bad actuator switches the code to the other bank is going to eat into money that you can just spend on getting a new actuator to begin with. I have begun to wonder if a failing actuator is ultimately the cause of the spun camshaft in the end (given that actuators do fail).
This is a very valid theory.

It has been almost 6,000 miles since I replaced the actuators and still going problem free.
 
  #45  
Old 08-14-2017, 08:28 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 220
Rep Power: 20
Carlitos way is just really niceCarlitos way is just really niceCarlitos way is just really niceCarlitos way is just really niceCarlitos way is just really nice
Originally Posted by TAILWAG View Post
Funny how that works, huh? LOL.

How long ago did you change your oil?
3 weeks, I had to delete the code about 6 times, at the end I said to myself fu** it I'll drive it with the check engine light on and decided to give that Sport mode spirited driving a shot.....and it worked!!!!
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:
You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 0 votes,  average.

Quick Reply: If you have encountered P0021 or P0011 or any other cam advancement errors or issue


Join 6SpeedOnline
Visit our Sponsors

Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.