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Thanks for the reply. I'll keep my fingers crossed that it is something simpler and will swap out the relays and also try and pull the fusebox forward to see if there are any pinched wires causing a short.
But in the end, I think you are probably right....
Just priced it out...OEM fuel pump is $583 (that by far the best price I found) but I believe I need to get 2. Unusual because diagram only shows 1. If it isn't something more simple like bad relay or wiring snag it looks like a $1500-$2000 job, as mentioned above by rdrozd
If you have a aftermarket warranty. See if they'll cover it.
Here is a semi-update. I've been traveling a bunch lately so barely driving the car, but when I do everything feels fine.
I ordered replacement fuel pump relays (2) to try and swap. I also pulled the fuse box forward to try and see if there were any obviously pinched/shorting wires.
In the end, I wasn't able to replace the fuel pump relay as I couldn't really locate it, was uncomfortably contorted, and decided to save troubleshooting this issue until I took the car for an oil change in about 1000 miles.
Here are some interesting things I saw and questions as I looked for the relay / messed with the fuse box. Also, I went back to a PIWIS readout right before purchase...looks like this has been ongoing.
Update on this -- shop (Hergesheimer Motorsports) completed diagnosis, confirming that pump 1 is dead and would need to be replaced. Well, since both pumps are integrated they would be replaced together as noted earlier in this thread. Their price on this seemed reasonable (~$1100) so I'll get it done in the near future.
Also, just a reminder that there are no symptoms associated with this -- car appears to run great. The only signs are the burned out fuse and error code mentioned above.
Finally, I wanted to put the below helpful description of the 997TT fueling system in the thread. Hat tip to prodigymb for sourcing this and putting it to another thread.
I just looked up how to do it....you are right. Extremely involved! Says I have to remove half the dash on the driver side. Why TF would they design it like this? I will start with the easily accessible fuses.
Its actually not as bad as it may sound -- you need to access the relay box from the "top". Follow the DIY I put together for lower dash removal and that may actually get you close enough where you can squeeze your hands in there. I think there is a clip in (plus a screw or two?) control module that may need to be removed as well, but it isn't hard. Sorry I don't fully remember.
Thank you sir! I have attached as a pic as well for others to download your DIY.
997 Lower Dash removal
Originally Posted by TypeRx
Its actually not as bad as it may sound -- you need to access the relay box from the "top". Follow the DIY I put together for lower dash removal and that may actually get you close enough where you can squeeze your hands in there. I think there is a clip in (plus a screw or two?) control module that may need to be removed as well, but it isn't hard. Sorry I don't fully remember.
Hi guys, quick question. I am having a similar issue except my fuse is not getting blown. However, when I start the car it dies after a few seconds. If I take the fuel pump 1 fuse out it stays on. How can I verify the pump or the relay is bad? Correct me if I am wrong but isn't it possible to check for voltage at the fuse to see if the relay is bad or not?
02-01-2016, 08:42 PM
