Sounds like you need a mechanic.

Put a rag in the open hoses. Even leaving them open I'm sure you'd be fine. Take the belt off and run the engine for a second, if noise stops, there you go.

 

For OP's sake to clarify we're talking almost straight water, as the OEM is a 50/50 mix.

 

If you stuffed a wrag in the intake pipe’s wouldn’t it suck them in since that’s the air source? I’m not sure I understand and the anti freeze was slimey in 20 degree weather so I gues OEM 50/50 is pretty good. I’m guessing a rock, but I didn’t see a hole from the front. Maybe a local Porsche dealership can check. If there’s a hole will system keep pumping coolant to that radiator and empty the system? Should it be delivered?

 

......Engine out coolant pipe fix at dealer is @$4800 without water pump housing.......

 

How much fluid has leaked on the ground? How far is the dealer? Highway? Surface roads? City or suburban driving? Can you determine what the rate of the leak is and if running the engine increases the leak amount? Depending on the answer to those questions you may or may not be able to drive the car there.

If you are going to run the engine with the air box out to listen for the noise, DO NOT stuff anything in the pipes. Just don't run it that long.

If you still have plenty of antifreeze in the expansion tank, you can run the car for a short period of time and see what is happening at the suspected leak location to help answer one of those questions. Depending on how much you see leaking when the car is parked, you can take it for a short test run and check the expansion tank to see how the level changed.

If you are worried about the drop in antifreeze, then have the car flatbedded to the dealer. They can diagnose the leak and the noise for you.

Ed

 

Can someone please point me to a link on how to remove the entire air box on 997.1 TT. Search bar didn’t yield any results.

 

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ilter-diy.html


Use google for searching and add "forums" or "6speedonline" to searches to be directed to better results.

 

 

 

Made some progress. I was able to get the Y pipe out and then get the air box out. Used a heat gun to heat up all rubber connectors to make all this come out a little easier. Pretty easy took 30 minutes. So now I’d like to know exactly what all the pulleys are. I see in the bottom left the new water pump, in center down low crank shaft pulley and top left alternator. Are the 3 small black pulleys all tensioner pulleys and are these the ones most prone and suspect to whine (bearing failure??)? What are the 2 larger pulleys in right connected to (oil pump center and power steering top right?) and are they suspect to whine? Can crankshaft pulley whine? How to you release tension on belt to remove it? How do you get it back on if your hands won’t fit down to crankshaft pulley? Once I get belt off will I be able to spin pulleys and tell pretty obviously which one is the culprit? Will it feel raspy and scratchy versus very smooth and free spinning? Also, if I crank car now to try and hear which pulley is making noise, how will motor not go crazy if all the intake sensors are disconnected???!!

 

 

It wont run to good if at all. It will also throw a lot of codes. No mafs or pressure sensor. Your better off just pulling the belt and checking the pulleys by hand.

 

 

Never had to change mine but I believe like this
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...tine-belt.html
Or use rocks water pump diy
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...diy-guide.html

 

No, only the center pulley is tension, the others are idler pulleys. Any of the three can be making noise. The tension is released by rotating the 24mm bolt at the center of the tensioner pulley clockwise. Idler and tensioner pulleys can definitely generate noise, but so can any rotating part of the serpentine system. PS pump is far right silver wheel. Center black is the AC Compressor.

When you loosen the tensioner pulley you will need to make sure you know where the belt is routed BEFORE you do this. If you are going to remove the belt, mark it with an arrow in the direction it spins so you replace it the same way it came off.

The fitment is pretty tight, so it is unlikely it will come off the crank pulley unintentionally. In some of the write ups I have seen, people will loosen the bolts on the PS pump before loosening the tension and then remove that pulley once the belt tension is removed to make R&R'ing the belt easier.

In most write ups the order of placing the belt back on starts from bottom left to the right and ends on the top left with the alternator second to last and the idler below it last.

IT may be a little fiddly to spin the various pieces with the belt still hanging loose on the car. I have only done that test to confirm I have no issues with the belt completely out, but my guess is that you should be able to move the belt a bit at each spot to spin each pulley and listen for noise or feel for any untoward movement. The alternator will have a bit of end play but should not be growling or squealing as you spin it.

I am not sure about cranking the car now, but I would normally do that check with my stethoscope before pulling everything apart. Maybe someone else can comment on that.

Ed