When I was born I didn't know how to do anything

With patience and determination you can learn how to do anything

The best thing since I was little and I got my start working on my first turbo flat 6 - a Corvair 180hp 1966 I think everything has gotten easier with the internet. Back in those days everything was by shop manual.

With the internet you can find help on just about any topic.

One thing for sure - if you found a way to get some rods and maybe some head studs in your car that thing would be a real monster kind of like we used to say "taking off the panties" when the world was less politically correct

Having owned a couple of 9 second cars and gone over 1,000 whp I can't say I blame you for your apprehension but it seems clear to me that the rods are your next step

Myself on the other hand I am purposely keeping my build at 600 - 650 whp on the mark at this point to avoid many of the pitfalls I have been through in the past - in fact this was one of the main reasons why I bought a 997.1 in the first place (because it is so easily modified) and I like a manual trans car

 

Yes you would need a bigger MAP sensor - not sure if the Cobb supports that modification on this platform

You probably did not use ALL the boost as Champion claims the 68 turbos are rated at 475 per turbo which certainly would have finished your rods

I am sure that Sam had everything under control

 

You remind me of Prodigy

 

lol that's right, he came up with that

 

Cobb does support 2 bar map sensor.
I had a different brand Cobb custom tune and was in talks with Sam about a new custom tune when a coolant hose blew. Since the engine was coming down I decided to put on Xonas after a little research.

 

I would say you got away lucky with that "different brand" tune as without knowing what the boost is at whom ever was doing the tuning was playing blind. That "different brand" could have wound up costing you a lot of money

I think as a tuner the first thing you do when you see the map sensor voltage hit peak is stop and go for a bigger map sensor - OR - turn down the boost so the map sensor is less than peak. In fact on most tunes I would do I would set a fuel cut or boost limit right at the limit of the map sensor to prevent over boosting in the event of a hose coming of a wastegate

Now when that engine was down would have been a great time to do the rods - lol

Thankfully you are in good and safe hands now - I like Sam's careful and slow approach to the tuning process and starting off on the low side and working up slowly

 

Hey Sam, things look good, almost at goal. I think you misunderstood, the graph above is the Champion 68s maxing the stock MAP sensor.

 

That version of the tune was done on the Mustang AWD dyno so I'm sure he knew exactly what the boost was at the time. I just don't know what the number is for boost because it maxes the stock map sensor. Based on calculated "load" and the pbox performance I doubt it's much higher than 23psi or so, but that's just a guess. Not that it matters anymore anyway, lol. Drove the car for a long time with that tune and don't think there were any tune-related problems. The leakdown was very consistent between cylinders when it was recently tested.

 

While there are plenty of maps with boost pressure as an axis, there's still the MAF sensors for load calculation.

I have the 3 bar on mine and the maps scaled for it, but ever since I upgraded to the Do88 big pack, I haven't needed it as my max flow numbers are still the same at 20-21 psi as they were at 23-24 PSI on the factory piping and 997.2 ICs.

 

I'm also impressed with the big pack - keeps the temps under control even on hot days (i.e. they don't skyrocket)

 

It seems that you are making a lot of power for stock turbos. If you don't mind me asking how did you calculate the power level? If you are making that much power I would think out loud that no matter how much higher you raised the boost the power would not go up any higher.

The reason why the boost is lower for the same airflow on larger intercoolers is because the air is cooler and more dense. I experienced the same situation when I installed the AMS intercoolers. Based upon my experience the intercoolers are a huge benefit.

 

 

E85 explains a lot. But I wanted to say a few things about the dyno jet dyno after years of experience working on them - STD correction means STD as in sexually transmitted disease - depending on air temps and altitude the power is raised - the best correction is none and smoothing 5 is another typical dyno jet method to make a dyno sheet look smoother

Main thing is that you are happy as no one drives a dyno sheet but I think too many people are fixated on dyno sheets in the performance world. No one drives a dyno so that is why I prefer to log and drive my car on the street - have not had my 997 on the dyno yet

 

 

How is your driveability / cold start with the E85 over time ?

Any disadvantages to using E85 on the 997?

Have you ran into any problems?

I note by the way the reason why I know about the STD trick is because all my dyno "records" where always made on STD mode with a dynojet. Just the same way there is a lot of manipulation on Vbox numbers (people taking out seats - spraying intercoolers with NOS before runs etc) there is a lot of manipulation in the tuning world on dyno sheets

I am glad that you tuned your car mostly on the road - I have little use for dynos other than comparing parts and setting up timing curves for MBT