I’ve finally got round to fixing my car (hopefully) and the first job is removing the turbos as Im replacing them to to corrosion plus a leak due to that(uk weather..)

So iI’ve been under the car and found an oil
drip from what I believe is a timing chain guide bolt





it has left a few drips on the drive over the past few weeks.
I am new to flat sixes but have rebuilt quite a few 2jzs and various other motors so I am confident to tackle most things if I have the tools... Can anyone confirm what replacing the innocent o ring or washer on this involves?
From reading up timing needs to be locked at tdc, chain tension removed with a tool then Is it a case of remove the guidebolt and reseal? Where do I use the locking tool and tensioner tools I dont have yet..! Or is it easier to take it to a good indy who has the tools (if they are $$$) thanks

 

That has a aluminum washer behind it that does the sealing. Just tighten it up slightly. The washer will smash more and it should seal. If not then loosen it up and put some auto sealant type stuff on it. Don't pull that pin out.

 

Thanks buddy.
I did think about getting the car to temp, dropping the oil out fully and lifting the rear end, then undo the bolt a couple of turns, clean the area as much as possible, use a little suitable sealant and tighten back up.
Does anyone know what the correct torque is for it? I have limited manuals for this car lol, does anyone have a pdf on the procedure on changeing the bolt out of curiosity?

I have a new bolt, as I wanted to see how long the locating part is on the end, so I know a few threads wound out is ok if I have to

ps/ been reading your redneck engine build thread. Nice work!

 

Thanks, I should have the car going pretty soon. I'm messing with my timing now and I actually forgot to install that exact pin I think (driver side, inside low). I couldn't get it back in with the cams installed so I took the gear off the exhaust cam to loosen it up. I'd imagine if you pulled that out you would have to drop your engine and take off the cam covers to loosen it up and re time them. That's why I told you not to pull it out. I couldn't find the torque spec for that in the 996 manual so I just tightened mine moderately tight by hand. I'd say just put an hex key on it and tighten it just a little bit, I think you will be fine.

 

Sounds good. I will be following your thread with interest!
The timing looks the tricky part but after reading some threads on here and watching the stromski racing tool video guide, I get it (using their tool anyway).
Impressive that you managed to use no special tools with the engine build. If I decide to go for more power in the future it is likely I will end DIYing it.

THat was my suspicion with the guide bolt. A motor out job to replace so I wont be doing that just for that job, but if I need to drop it in the future to do coolant pipes or anything else I will attend to it then.

I am not overly keen on unwinding it any, I would think that one 360 anticlockwise rotation would be enough and should leave the locating lug with plenty of material so as to not overstress it. Not sure if that will be enough to get any sealant in though. Do you think 2 rotations would still be safe? I dont want to chance the chain coming off for an oil drip as it would be a major PITA at this stage. I guess I would know if anything had gone amiss as the bolt would not go back in correctly! Hopefully tweaking it a little tighter will fix the issue. thanks!

 

Well that was disappointing. The bolt is very tight, and due to the location i can't get a bar with an allen socket in, allen key stands no chance as it is. Either tighten or loosening. I am not very keen on putting heat to it, does anyone know what torque this bolt should be at? I wouldnt imagine it is super tight from the factory, but then UK weather is harsh and bolts down low tend get seized. I am even less keen on taking the engine out to sort it at this stage!. I will try getting the engine fully up to temperature and see if that makes it any easier. Anyone got any other suggestions?? Is this not a common leak point on the 997 turbo engine? (higher miles 75k)

Thanks

 

I extent the allen key leverage by putting a socket with an extension on the end of it. Be sure you are turning it the correct way!

 

yes, have you tried tightening this on the car? Its going the correct way lol. going to see if I can get in the top if I take more stuff off but it doesn’t look likely. tried extending the allen but the 8mm key is bending a lot. Will get it up to temp and try tonight. Thanks buddy

 

Never tried on the car. Don't tighten it if it is that tight already. Try the sealant method.

 

ah ok, access is tight..! But Im looking at getting a mid rise lift in case this badboy ends up coming out for some upgrades, so I will get on with replacing the turbos and doing other jobs and when I run the car after that up to temp to do an oil change, I will have a go at loosening the allen bolt then to seal it. Keep adding to your thread, Im using it for inspiration lol