When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was doing a spirited drive and I noticed the coolant low light came on. I pull over immediately and see this. Has the car towed to my local P car shop they will be welding the pipes.
my only mods are an APR flash and GMG exhaust. What I am wondering now is if while the engine is out if I should do do88 big pack with inlets, id1300, and get a Cobb E85 tune. Has anyone regretted going E85? Is it worth it? I'm a tiptronic if that matters. I'm seeing lots of blown motor post recently so that scares me. I've already spent 10k on maintenance and mods in 2 years lol
Anything that is only possible when the engine is out would be what I would look at. Injectors would fall into that category.
While the IC's & pipes can be done with the engine in, they are far easier to do with the engine out.
I have no experience with tunes, but even when I do, I am not sure I will look at E85 (mainly due to the limited sources here in eastern PA).
As far as the coolant leak is concerned, you may find something different when you get in there. The passenger side issue will most likely be one of two things:
1. Turbo Coolant line - the small rubber piece at the end of the metal pipe will bulge and finally split
2. Plastic Elbows - if you haven't upgraded to the Sharkwerks metal options, the one on the passenger side may have split
Whatever you do, replace all hot side and heat exposed rubber when you get the coolant pipes pinned. YOu may want to replace the after run coolant pump due to it's location as well as look at your water pump and the last time it was replace. Also, replace the plastic elbows and definitely deal with both Cyl 1-3 & Cyl 4-6 turbo coolant lines. The Cyl 1-3 line has been out of production, so you may have to do what I did and fabricate a new end to the metal line:
There are a few other items, such as pinning the cams, but whatever you wind up doing, trying to handle as many of these issues as possible will make the best use of the engine drop dollars.
That is unfortunate, but a fairly high risk. No doubt many cars will escape this particular failure. Nobody has come up with the underlying root cause to my knowledge.
As an engineer in the 90’s I was involved in chemical manufacturing operations that used FRP piping extensively. The FRP fittings were glued onto the FRP pipes. The pipe ends were first tapered like sharpening a pencil, then 2 part epoxy glue applied, then the fitting attached until cured. We had many fitting blowouts causing shut down of operations. The root cause? The maintenance supervisor had the mechanics put extreme clamping stress on the fittings to hold them firmly in position during cure. This squeezed out all but a super thin film of glue between pipe and fitting. In working with the piping company to solve the problem, they advised NOT to excessively clamp the fittings in order to leave thicker glue layer between pipe and fitting, whereby a much stronger and reliable joint would be achieved. This new procedure fixed our problem. I wonder if there may have been a similar aspect involving the glued coolant fittings and associated failures we see with our Mezger motor cars?
That is unfortunate, but a fairly high risk. No doubt many cars will escape this particular failure. Nobody has come up with the underlying root cause to my knowledge.
As an engineer in the 90’s I was involved in chemical manufacturing operations that used FRP piping extensively. The FRP fittings were glued onto the FRP pipes. The pipe ends were first tapered like sharpening a pencil, then 2 part epoxy glue applied, then the fitting attached until cured. We had many fitting blowouts causing shut down of operations. The root cause? The maintenance supervisor had the mechanics put extreme clamping stress on the fittings to hold them firmly in position during cure. This squeezed out all but a super thin film of glue between pipe and fitting. In working with the piping company to solve the problem, they advised NOT to excessively clamp the fittings in order to leave thicker glue layer between pipe and fitting, whereby a much stronger and reliable joint would be achieved. This new procedure fixed our problem. I wonder if there may have been a similar aspect involving the glued coolant fittings and associated failures we see with our Mezger motor cars?
Sounds like you guys completed a FMEA. Sorry, off topic, lol.