X-post from Tires Forum - Do's and Don'ts going from street to R-compounds?
I've searched the archives and haven't really found the answers I was looking for.
I have no R-compound experience and all of my track time has been on some form of a treaded street tire. What are the main things to know when driving on R-compounds versus street tires on the track? Handling differences? Do they communicate with sound and feel similar to a street tire or totally different? How long do they last in comparison? Any good rule of thumb to know if I'm even driving at R-compound grip levels or are the street tires good enough? Whatever you guys can help me with, I'd appreciate the education before I start shopping 'round. Thanks! |
If you are ready to move to R comps, then the improved grip will put a smile on your face.
The improved grip all allow you to take corners faster, however when you lose grip it will be with a lot less communication and loss of grip could be without warning. R comps will last longer then street tires when pushed to higher limits, however if you drive at a moderate level they will wear faster. In other words when pushed hard, the street tires will melt and wear out quicker then the R Comps. What R comps were you thinking of getting? |
Originally Posted by NorthVan
(Post 2626426)
..., however when you lose grip it will be with a lot less communication and loss of grip could be without warning.
Originally Posted by MorthVan
(Post 2626426)
What R comps were you thinking of getting?
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R-Comps will not squeal nd howl like street tires will so you will lose that feedback. I run 18's on my 997S and have been useing Toyo RA1 and R888 for the last 2 years.
If you can get -2 camber up front minium (need GT3 lower control arms...great mod too!) R-Comps will really come alive and last longer. Different R-Comps require different degrees of camber but the Toyo's work best out of all the R-Comps on less camber. |
Thanks for the info guys. Appreciate it.
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As others have pointed out, it's not just the tires, but wheels, alignment, brakes, etc. Stock fluid and pads (or Porsche Sport pads - basically Pagid 4-2-1) can work fine with street tires, but once you move up to the higher grip characteristics of R-comps, now your pads and fluid have more work to do. Also, you won't be getting the most out of either street or track tires with stock alignment.
White this is a big move, I think if you are going to move to R-comps, you need to do the following: GT3 Cup control arms - should be about $1200 including installation and alignment (street / track combo, about -2.1 degrees of camber up front). Castrol SRF fluid - same BP wet or dry, so I have it flushed once in the spring and it's good all season (April to November). Pagid Yellow 29s or PFC 97s for pads, swap out before / after each event. Wheels and R-comps. I've tried many and really like the "all around" characteristics of the Volk TE37 from Tire Rack and Toyo RA1s, 245/305 shaved to 5/32. If you don't get them shaved, they will be squirmy for the first several events. The RA1s really are a wunder-tyre. Last a very long time, great in the dry, wet, cold. |
Originally Posted by RonCT
(Post 2632300)
As others have pointed out, it's not just the tires, but wheels, alignment, brakes, etc. Stock fluid and pads (or Porsche Sport pads - basically Pagid 4-2-1) can work fine with street tires, but once you move up to the higher grip characteristics of R-comps, now your pads and fluid have more work to do. Also, you won't be getting the most out of either street or track tires with stock alignment.
White this is a big move, I think if you are going to move to R-comps, you need to do the following: GT3 Cup control arms - should be about $1200 including installation and alignment (street / track combo, about -2.1 degrees of camber up front). Castrol SRF fluid - same BP wet or dry, so I have it flushed once in the spring and it's good all season (April to November). Pagid Yellow 29s or PFC 97s for pads, swap out before / after each event. Wheels and R-comps. I've tried many and really like the "all around" characteristics of the Volk TE37 from Tire Rack and Toyo RA1s, 245/305 shaved to 5/32. If you don't get them shaved, they will be squirmy for the first several events. The RA1s really are a wunder-tyre. Last a very long time, great in the dry, wet, cold. Again, thanks a lot. And, thanks to mdrums and north van, too. |
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