997 2005-2012 911 C2, C2S, C4, C4S, GTS, Targa and Cabriolet Model Discussion.

Anyone using slotted rotors vs. cross drilled?

  #16  
Old 09-25-2014, 06:43 AM
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Porsche doesn't make factory slotted rotors, only cross drilled, so we are unable to get them OEM.

There are quite a few quality aftermarket products listed already. If you decide to get replacement drilled rotors let us know! We'd be happy to answer any questions.
 
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Old 09-25-2014, 07:30 AM
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Thanks for all the input folks. I thought I might get the, "use the search function" reply

If I do slotted I'll do all four so they match or maybe just get the slotted for the track and leave these on for the street...

This is only my second weekend ever tracking. Taking it easy on the car and still having a great time.




This is what they look like right now.

A couple laps from Roebling Road near Savannah.

 
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:05 AM
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I am fully aware of the hairline cracks, but this has been a non-issue for me. I have always been a fan of drilled rotors. I don't mean to patronize Porsche, but I am sure their engineers all concurred that 'overall' drilled rotors are best for their cars.
Hmmmm, how many RACEcars do you really see with drilled rotors. I mean if that's the best for the track, wouldn't all race cars have them?
There's an engineering balance that has to be achieved in all applications. I'm SURE Porsche did a thorough analysis (and continues to update it) on everything from rotor material to swept area to drilled vs slotted. Which one is better? It depends on your exact application. Porsche clearly decided that drilled was better for their application.

Remember it's a sports car, not a RACE car. Race cars don't have to worry about things like low temp braking or 70,000 mile brake service intervals

On my prior BMW 335i, I used zinc-plated rotors from brakeperformance.com. I'm not sure how they stack up from a heavy-duty racing-worthy point of view but from a sporty on-the-road point of view they did fine. The zinc coating worked great to reduce the rust. Price was reasonable and they are made in the USA. You can choose between drilled, slotted, drilled/slotted, and dimpled/slotted.

Next time I need some Porsche ones I was going to consider these again. There are also other coated rotors out there, I must for me the next time around since I like keeping the wheel barrels clean and having to clear out the rust that gets slung onto the barrels after a through was gets annoying.
How thick is the Zinc coating? I'd imagine that affects coefficient of friction... meaning you're giving up braking force for every day dust reduction.

A couple laps from Roebling Road near Savannah.
Very awesome! Come down to Road Atlanta on Dec 5 for the NASA event!
 
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:22 AM
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Pelican has them. I know, because I inadvertently ordered them when I got my new rotors.

They're made by Sebro. If you look at the listings for brake rotors, you should see 2 Sebro listings. One is cross-drilled, one is slotted. You may have to click the "More Info" button to see which is which.
 
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Old 09-25-2014, 03:55 PM
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We do offer Sebro slotted rotors for the 997, although it isn't clear in our catalog but we'll fix this!

Info:
Front left
996-351-409-04-M896 for Carrera S
996-351-405-01-M896 for non S
Front Right
996-351-410-04-M896 for Carrera S
996-351-406-01-M896 for non S

You'll find those part#s on this page of our catalog for the S: 997 Brake Rotors

Let me know if you have any questions.

Mark/Pelican Parts
 
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Old 09-25-2014, 04:10 PM
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I would have bought them from our host but I was also confused by the web site.

I have not had brake fade or experienced any difference between the drilled vs the slotted rotors. I have installed the GT3 and GT2 brake ducts and better brake fluid as well as racing pads by PFC.

I have a lot of experience on the track and have raced with the SCCA for 15 years so I do drake hard and late. I find the upgrades I made are fine for aggressive DE drivers.
During heavy braking the pad actually vaporizes against the disc, and this sometimes pushes the pad away from the disc reducing friction. The holes in the rotor reduce this. In the old days we used to cut a slot or two in new pads to reduce this. Slotted rotors main advantage is they reduce the chance that a rotor will explode if the cracks connect a few holes. If you have ever seen this it is spectacular and causes lots of damage as well as you loose all your braking, not good going into a fast corner.
A side note, I have at least 10 track days on these rotors and they look good, some small surface cracks but otherwise great, and the price is fantastic compared to Porsche OEM.
 
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Old 09-25-2014, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com
We do offer Sebro slotted rotors for the 997, although it isn't clear in our catalog but we'll fix this!
Put a picture in the More Info page while you're at it. A picture is worth a thousand words.
 
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MarcoRemius
...
How thick is the Zinc coating? I'd imagine that affects coefficient of friction... meaning you're giving up braking force for every day dust reduction.
The zinc coating immediately wears off of the contact face after the break-in stops. Rusting on the contact surface isn't a problem anyway as long as you take a brief drive after a wash. There is no negative effect on braking.

The coating is there only to prevent rusting on the non-contact surfaces like the hub (not a big problem anyway) and on the turbine-like ventilation fins between the rotor faces and the edges of the rotors. When I wash the car these rust and the resulting brown water from the fins between the rotors tends to get slung out when I go for the short post-wash drive. I end up having the clean the barrels again to get rid of the brown muck. Of course, this isn't a problem for many folks since I think many people don't clean the barrels of the wheels behind the spokes every time so the residual dirt build-up back there hides the brown.
 

Last edited by StormRune; 09-25-2014 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 09-25-2014, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by StormRune
The zinc coating immediately wears off of the contact face after the break-in stops. Rusting on the contact surface isn't a problem anyway as long as you take a brief drive after a wash. There is no negative effect on braking.

The coating is there only to prevent rusting on the non-contact surfaces like the hub (not a big problem anyway) and on the turbine-like ventilation fins between the rotor faces and the edges of the rotors. When I wash the car these rust and the resulting brown water from the fins between the rotors tends to get slung out when I go for the short post-wash drive. I end up having the clean the barrels again to get rid of the brown muck. Of course, this isn't a problem for many folks since I think many people don't clean the barrels of the wheels behind the spokes every time so the residual dirt build-up back there hides the brown.
I clean them every time. As a matter of fact, after the track weekend I took all four wheels off washed and waxed them inside and out
 
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Old 02-01-2015, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cab83_750
I think 80% of my car's dirt come from the rotors and pads. A strong stream of water at every car wash will ensure those holes remain clean. Plus, the squeaks go away.
I notice that my rotors put off a lot of dust and dirt. The holes in my rotor seem to clog almost glazing over and blocking airflow therefore putting most router dust out onto the car. I don't overbreak I don't drive the car to very hard, but maybe on occasion. Planning on taking off all four wheels cleaning the road or holes with a brush and brake cleaner to see how long it lasts and if this cuts down on any of the current brake dust.
Has anyone else experienced this issue?

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Old 02-01-2015, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary B
I notice that my rotors put off a lot of dust and dirt. The holes in my rotor seem to clog almost glazing over and blocking airflow therefore putting most router dust out onto the car. I don't overbreak I don't drive the car to very hard, but maybe on occasion. Planning on taking off all four wheels cleaning the road or holes with a brush and brake cleaner to see how long it lasts and if this cuts down on any of the current brake dust.
Has anyone else experienced this issue?

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Dust is from the pads themselves. The amount of dust will not lessen unless you buy different brake pads. Note that the harder the pads, the more wear to the rotors ---- it's a compromise.

As for your holes getting clogged up, this is my first time to hear about this. The only way I could imagine the rotor holes getting clogged up is not enough water hose stream cleaning AND followed by mud contamination. Go ahead and take off the wheels and restore your holes. Just do a weekly or bi-weekly hose down and report back.
 
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Old 02-01-2015, 05:37 PM
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Cab82_750 - I have not driven the car a full tank of fuel before I noticed this issue. I'm in FL and it has not rained on me in weeks. All of my driving has been dry conditions. Noticed every other hole on the outside diameter of the rotor covered over with break dust. I washed the car today and hit each rotor with compressed air during drying, this seemed to clear the issue. I will monitor for further issues. I am on my second set of pads in 38,333 miles and original rotors. Last service at dealership they said my rotors are in spec with no issues. I'll keep my eye on it as I drive in the coming weeks. Thanks

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