Performance Brake Pad Options ...
#1
Performance Brake Pad Options ...
hey guys,
If someone could provide actual specific part numbers and prices for the different brands brake pads that are compatible for our cars front and rear that would be greatly appreciated.
-007-
If someone could provide actual specific part numbers and prices for the different brands brake pads that are compatible for our cars front and rear that would be greatly appreciated.
-007-
Last edited by 007 Vantage; 11-14-2011 at 01:14 PM.
#2
FYI - had to replace the emergency brake pads at about 19k miles. Used stock AM replacement as price was reasonable. My wear might be due to rotors were turned aggressively and then had to be re-turned in a much smoother turn (all an experiment for slotted rotors). E-brake pads actually drag slightly to clean rotor thus will wear out. Mine squeeked loudly letting me know they were too low!
Tried Hawks -were ok - would rate them slightly better than AM stock and less expensive. No sensor cut outs.
For the track the best thing I did was fully flush brake fluid and use new very high temp fluid ($80 Qt). Also installed a brake cooling kit - RSC now sells it. Puts more air to the front rotors. Both made a big difference (at Sebring) when using stock AM pads vs. stock fluid and no cooling kit.
Tried Hawks -were ok - would rate them slightly better than AM stock and less expensive. No sensor cut outs.
For the track the best thing I did was fully flush brake fluid and use new very high temp fluid ($80 Qt). Also installed a brake cooling kit - RSC now sells it. Puts more air to the front rotors. Both made a big difference (at Sebring) when using stock AM pads vs. stock fluid and no cooling kit.
#3
I changed to the Pagid Yellow/enduro pads up front and Pagid blacks in the rear. Track performance improved considerably-- enough so that I am no longer considering moving up to a big brake kit. ( Of course that could change next year.) I no longer have issues/concerns regarding brake fade on a brake heavy track such as Laguna Seca. I would advise the yellows on both front and back-- there is a huge temperature differential between front and back with my current setup. I was planning on swapping out the pads just for track days, yet after the last 2 months where I was tracking every two weeks, I decided just to leave the Pagid Track Pads on and not switch back and forth. While there was considerable squelling the first couple days, after three days on the track they settled in and are pretty quiet, ( yes they will squell in the cold of the morning.) If I did not use them on the track, I would not endorse them, yet they made a HUGE difference on the track. Biggest bang for the buck as far as track performance. Yes, there is considerable dust, yet I just hose down the wheels after a track day.
#4
The stock pads are Pagids--definitely not Pagid blacks-- yet I do not remember what that are off the top of my head.
I tied back my sensors after I wore through my original stock pads and installed my current setup-- the sensors are $$. With my original pads and sensors I went from having the brake warning light coming on and having the metal pad mount rubbing on the rotors during one session at Laguna Seca-- fortunately my last session of the day--not a lot of warning and the OEM pads can wear incredibly fast for the last couple of mm. I learned my lesson--do not rely on the wear sensor and check pad depth every run when at the track.
I tied back my sensors after I wore through my original stock pads and installed my current setup-- the sensors are $$. With my original pads and sensors I went from having the brake warning light coming on and having the metal pad mount rubbing on the rotors during one session at Laguna Seca-- fortunately my last session of the day--not a lot of warning and the OEM pads can wear incredibly fast for the last couple of mm. I learned my lesson--do not rely on the wear sensor and check pad depth every run when at the track.
#5
I have Carbotech AX6's good stopping, squeal like crazy. I have not been able to run them at the track though, only an autocross, I suppose running them at the track would take care of the squeal.
I am thinking of just swapping them out, when I hit the track etc.
I am thinking of just swapping them out, when I hit the track etc.
#6
zambono - squeel might be pad vibration rather than glazing (?). Do you have any "material" between back side of pad and brake piston? If not, that might be the cause... just relating a previous experience .... then again a heavy loading of metallic material in pad (most track pads) will squeel all the time, just how they are made and why not used often on the street.
#7
Hi guys - first post on here -
You might want to follow AM's work with the new Vantage GT4, that has:
Braking System
· Standard radial-mounted four-piston monoblock calipers fitted with high-performance Pagid RS 29 race pads
· Updated two-piece front brake discs
· Front cooling ducts to enhance brake cooling
You might want to follow AM's work with the new Vantage GT4, that has:
Braking System
· Standard radial-mounted four-piston monoblock calipers fitted with high-performance Pagid RS 29 race pads
· Updated two-piece front brake discs
· Front cooling ducts to enhance brake cooling
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#8
Its the 2011 GT4, see http://www.astonmartin.com/eng/theca...age/vantagegt4
There some interesting mods to the car, several of which look like they could be applied to the standard car (lightweight flywheel, better air filters, engine calibration etc.) Will be interesting to see what power they get from the modded engine
There some interesting mods to the car, several of which look like they could be applied to the standard car (lightweight flywheel, better air filters, engine calibration etc.) Will be interesting to see what power they get from the modded engine
#11
There is also a paste that can be applied between the pistons and the back of the pads that will cut down on squell-- The shop foreman at Los Gatos Luxury Autos showed me the product they used. Brake squell is a common complaint with high performance brakes-- yet it will go away if you drive aggressively and brake aggressively. It is a bigger problem for those drivers that should be driving a Lexus rather than an Aston Martin.
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