Alarm module location?
 

Can anyone provide me with detailed info on how to access the alarm module in the trunk? Pics preferred...I have the alarm service issue and I wanted to see if the connection was loose as I've heard is often the problem, but I'm not sure exactly where the thing is.

Thanks!

Ever find your your alarm module? I need to find mine now or the dealer will replace it for me for $600.

Anyone?

Well I found out where it is...when I had the dealer replace it for $550. To access it you have to go underneath the car or through the wheel well...not sure on exact location but it doesn't appear to be a DIYer.

That's what I was afraid of. Thanks for the quick reply.

DaveG

Replacing the Alarm module..
 

Replaced my Alarm Module this weekend. After reading the procedure on the Shop Manual, it did not look complicated, so decided to do it myself.
Here are the steps/pictures.

1. Lift the car! you are going to remove the left tire. My jack does not go that low, so i have to put the car on top of 2x4" pieces of wood, or a ramp.
2. Remove the left back wheel.
3. Remove the wheel liner:
3.a) Remove the gas drain hose from the clips at the back of the wheel liner. (Just by pressure, they are not screwed)
3.b) Remove all the self tapping screws that secures the liner to the back fender (about 6 of them, Philips/cross screws). You don't need to remove the ones that go to the front side skirts.
3.c) Remove the screws that secures the liner to the body of the car (torx T-30, 5 of them).

4. Remove the cable to the old alarm module. Push/squish to unlock, and pull.
5. Remove the alarm module secured by two M6 lock nuts.
6. Install the new alarm module, and tight the M6 lock nuts. Connect the cables/connector.
7. Test that the message on the console disappears.
7. Put back the wheel liner, screws.
8. Connect the gas drain hose.
9. Don't forget to put back the wheel!

Total time is about 1h. Tools: X screw driver, T-30 torx, metric cup set.
Original part AM part #4G43-37-10655, has been replaced with new part #9G43-37-11094. About $199 from an AM dealer.
This is the alarm module who has the tilt sensor as well as the horn/siren (high spec). There are some cars who use the one without the tilt sensor (std spec). Give your VIN to the dealer, and he can check what module you have
Looks like is a Ford (FoMoCo) part, but could not find it anywhere on the web with the part # displayed on the module.

My right door lock/latch is also not working sometimes (another common problem), got the part, so will replace it next weekend. will post pics too.

Guys be very careful which alarm sounder you are getting. There two types a high spec sounder and a standard sounder. Like farzu said one has the tilt sensor one doesn't. The only way to tell is the vin number or if you have the window sticker. If you get the wrong one you may still get the alarm service light.

Good procedure farzu. Rep point for that.

And when you go to replace the door latch be mind full of the door cables, they can be hard to remove. If you mark the window before removal it will be easier to adjust when you go back together.

here are the part# for the other types of modules.
AMFixer.. thanks for the tips and comment.

Yah for the alarm modules..just bring your VIN # to the dealer and they will do a Inquiry to see if the high spec is fitted..takes 2secs

Door latches..hehe..I've never replaced one yet, there all good.. lmao.. who am I kidding ;)

btw: I know a large percentage of you guys have had the alarm modules fail..this is mostly due to the fact there battery back-up power goes flat (the batteries inside the module die and well theres no access door to change them so new module is needed)..just thought I'd let you know what "one" of the reasons of failure is..

wow that is funny....hilarious

Any harm to tearing into the module to replace the battery pack? If it's a $600 part, and the alternative is writing a check, what harm can be done? I'm 200+ miles from a dealer.

Curiosity Killed The Cat!! ..

If your module is faulty and it's a dead slave node that is the error..batteyr is dead inside and you could by all means cut open the module and try and replace them..I've heard that a dealer in san fran was doing it..but the time that took him to do so versus the cost of the unit didn't work out, so that came to a dead stop. Once you cut off the metal casing, there is a anaother plastic casing inside that is completely enclosed that is the module's main body, you will then need to cut this open to access the batteries..now that you've accessed them..believe they look like AA's in series, you'll need to solder them correctly with contacts in series as they are..

Now that you've done the batteries...your now gonna need to glue everything back together..but to access the batteries you've pretty much already destroyed the casing and have nothing left to glue back together correctly and will now have possible water ingress...

By all means, it can be done..

My part was $199 from the Long Island dealer, mailed to me. Also the dealer in Houston was about the same price.

Irish07, how do I know if it's a door module or the alarm module that's defective without plugging into AMDS? Neither fob is working consistently, and I get the "alarm requires service" text 90% of the time. Sometimes playing with the lock/unlock switch on the center console resolves the text, sometimes it makes the message show up.

Hi there

Could you please tell me when you replaced the module, did the light go off automatically or did you have to reset it? If you did reset it how did you do it?
I have just spoken to my dealer in SA and they have told me it has to be reset on their computer!! dont know if they're just trying to make money off me!!!