DIY oil change
 

I'm in the process of doing an oil change right now. So far, it's been a piece of cake (famous last words). I got the "oil change kit" on eBay (including a filter, new drain plug, 2 o-rings, and a copper washer), and picked up a Fram PH9010 (proper fitment for a 2006 XK-8) oil filter to see if that'll work instead.

Here's what I've done, based on instructions from irish07 here and Rick-DMS on AMOC. Thanks to you both. And more thanks to DetomasoGTS74. Filled with thanks today. ;) That's what I get for writing this up before I was done.

1. Lift car. Lacking a lift, I jacked up the driver's side at the rear jack point, which lifts the entire side, and put a jack stand under the front jack point.
2. Remove the aerodynamic under shield (aluminum piece under the front of the engine) with a Torx 30 bit/screwdriver (12 screws) and a Philips screwdriver (2 screws hiding under the black plastic trim at the front). This is necessary to see the front plug that's at the bottom of a stainless steel canister (removed in the next step).
3. Remove oil drain plug with a 13mm socket. Drain. Replace copper washer with new. Replace plug. I replaced the under shield at this point, though you might wait until you've checked for leaks.
4. Remove oil pan drain plug with a 13mm socket. Drain. Replace with new.
5. Remove oil filter. Drain. Replace with new. Mine was (barely) hand tight and came right off. I put the Fram on (available at local parts stores for $10 or so). Fits fine.
6. Remove front engine oil bypass filter plate with a Torx 30 bit/screwdriver.
7. Screw an M8-1.25 bolt into the threaded section in the bottom center of the bypass filter. Just wiggling by hand didn't work for me, so I got a pair of channel locks and pulled down/pryed against a wedge. The o-ring on the filter makes for a fairly tight fit, but not that bad: all you need to overcome is that friction. As mentioned elsewhere, this is a roughly 4cm hole out of which oil will pour.
8. Replace the bypass filter and plate. Friction again will keep it from going in all the way. Tightening the plate a bit at a time on each side pressed the filter all the way back in.
9. Repeat 4-6 for the rear engine oil bypass filter.
10. Lower car.
11. Fill with gold-imbued nectar, or 10w60, whichever is cheaper.
12. Start the car, look for leaks.

The first attached image shows the rear bypass filter plate removed, with a bolt threaded into the filter, just before being pulled out. The second is a picture of that bypass filter once removed.

(Text and images edited thanks to corrections from irish07. Thanks again!)

This is awesome. Thanks for posting. I will be doing mine in the spring.

Is this for a V8 Vantage or a V12 DB9?

Great instructions.

Great work, and without a lift no less!!

Only thing I would add is be careful when tightening the 30TQ screws back in on the front and rear bypass filters. They strip easily and my dealer had stripped them, making them near impossible to take off. They are also spring loaded so it is good to loosen both screws together.

V12 has fewer drain plugs, but...getting the filter off is so difficult, I gave up.

Thanks for this, great instructions. The 'kits' offered on eBay all include a branded AM filter. If you are using a Fram instead, how much are the parts without the filter? I'm assuming one would have to buy them at a dealer.

The vantage oil filter is a snap (what's the filter bypass there in the pic?) ... The v12 is MUCH harder with the oil filter location...so for DB9, DBS, rapids, virage, etc... You have to remove the underbody paneling, drop the drain plug, ... Then for the filter you need to remove the front left wheel, remove fr left fender liner, remove right side MAF ... Then you can get to it. Does anyone know an easier way for the v12 oil filter removal?

Looks like the v8 vantage has 4 drain areas... 2 filter bypass, 1 drain plug, and the oil filter itself!!! From what I know the v12 only has ther drain plug on the bottom and the pain in the butt to get to filter on the left side of the block... Am I missing something?

blayne: Thank you. Hope it's helpful.

62Jeff: This is for an '06 V8. According to the parts schematics, should be the same for all the 4.3's. But then, this is the parts schematic that calls the sump drain the main oil pan drain, so I don't know. Had to fix the text 3 times to get the terms right (and I might still be off on something).

DetomasoGTS74: Yeah, it's a sea of aluminum down there. I didn't get too crazy with any tightening (seeing as how my wife could've spun off the old filter with ease, I figured high torques aren't necessary here).

Aston Curious: The other parts are 2 o-rings (which should cost about $0.10/each, but, wow, just looked, list for $12.11 for the pair) whose diameter I'll measure directly; the oil tank copper washer ($4.23 list... sigh); and sump plug (yep, $32.87 for a bolt with a rubber gasket). While I'll continue to replace the o-rings, I'm not convinced that the washer or plug need to be replaced every time. I believe irish07 suggested the Jag parts look the same more or less for the sump plugs.

sunir: Correct, 4 places to drain. I missed the last (which is the first in the list) until irish07 and DetomasoGTS74 told me to stop being lazy and remove the under engine cover. All easy, just a whole bunch of them.

You mean left side MAF. The manual does not require wheel/liner removal. Are you saying that removal of the liner allows access from underneath (which would be great)? If that's the case, then what's the purpose of MAF removal?

Any way, the AM tech I talked to said you need someone with long skinny arms to reach the filter from above. Best to have a tall, skinny teenage daughter...

But if you have a better way, please pipe up.

That's what i'm talking about, nice job....but you forgot to clear the service light...lol

If you take off the throttle body on the oil filter side, you can get the oil filter out on the v12's. Really easy just four bolts, dont take off connector, and replace the 2 dollar oring when refitting. Torque to 8NM. No need to remove the liner or wheel.

Yeah come to think about it I think you are right...We tried going from underneath on the side by removing the wheel and wheel liner but I think we still had to remove the Throttle body/MAF to get to it and having skinny arms helps. A buddy of mine was able to reach it. We did this the second day I owned the car, so we were trying to learn all the while. My first thought was "Son of a b*tch - why did they put the oil filter there!" I recall thinking that vividly hilarious!!!

Does clearing the service light require the AMDS or can it be done without specialized equipment?

DB9 and V8 can be done without the AMDS. I have yet to find one that this doesnt work on.

1. Shut all doors
2. With key in position 1 hold the t1/t2 button in the center stack.
3. Turn key to position 2 still holding the t1/t2 button.
4. Watch for the yellow triangle to start to flash at least three times, let go of t1/t2 button after three flashes. Should hear a audible beep.
5. Turn key on making sure service light is off

Might take you a couple of tries to get it. If you have a ECU key the same process works. Just keep your foot of the brake so car will not start.