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An individual LED should be easy to replace - the hardest part will be to figure out what part to buy to replace it with. If you are in Prosper TX, I'm fairly close by, and would be happy to help.
Matt |
Name of Perso?
Originally Posted by Prefurbia
(Post 4445890)
There is a guy in California that has done a ton of custom work including an Aston Martin's and sealed headlights and taillights are in the special effects with LED lighting. I'm traveling now so I don't have access to his name but he's on my previous post I'm fixing clear taillights.
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Originally Posted by DetomasoGTS74
(Post 4720898)
Guys- I had taken apart my headlamp three times before I figured out my issue. At first I assumed it was the same issue as cadman so I replaced the part he suggested. Light appeared to work but then had issues one week later so I opened it up thinking it was a similar issue as the greetings from Niagara thread and I followed his step-by-step instructions and again it worked for a week only to fault later.
This last time I took the entire board to a computer repair shop where they went through each bit and found one part I had a very loose connection and re-soldered it. Knock on wood the light has performed flawlessly over the past few hundred miles since. My recommendation is there are numerous parts that can fault so take it to a computer repair store or similar and have them go through each bit. Eric |
Signal Issue Solved!
Thought I would update my signal saga in the event anyone else is experiencing the same issue.
I replaced some parts on the circuitboard only to have it go out...again! This time, however, I discovered a new problem and some advice. If your signal is not working, first look at the signal (in operation mode) to see if there is a faint light emitting from the LEDs. If so, you have a grounding issue. This can be very hard to spot. So do it in the dark. In my case, I disassembled the headlight and pushed slightly on the circuit board while still attached to the headlamp. It would suddenly come back on and then go out. This confirmed a short. So, I took the board to THREE different computer repair stores. Each of them said all the joints looked good and couldn’t find the issue. My next step was to have a friend run it through his X-ray machine at work designed to find flaws in circuit boards. However, I decided to try a cellphone repair shop before going to the extreme of having the board put through and X-ray machine. The store had a top notch bench tech who went through it pushing and pulling on parts. It took him no time to discover a hairline crack in one of the solder joints. For a mere $40, he fixed the issue and it works like a champ. Let’s just hope it continues to do so. One thing is for certain: I’ve become an expert in removing headlamps from Aston Vantages. My point in in all of this is to keep shopping around and don’t take ‘no’ for an answer. Also, consider phone repair stores as they tend to work on extremely small electronic circuit boards. The tech told me some cellphones had the same issue (broken joints) due to high heat and wear. |
Apologies @cadman just now seeing your request. I don’t know what specific part he resoldered but my advice would be to bring the entire board into either a computer repair or cell phone repair shop. They were able to test and check every point on the board and identified the problem area. Unfortunately they were in the back room doing this so I did not get to watch. Took him less than 10 minutes total to look everything over.
Looks like Marc had success following the same advice! |
Who did the repair for you?
Hello - thanks very much for the helpful post! I've got an '06 V8V that has the same issue with both front turn signals. I bought a damaged headlight to get the circuit board and tore apart a head light to try it and it works. So now I have two bad/intermittent boards and nowhere in Salt Lake City to get them repaired or attempt to. Who did you use in Austin to look at your board?
I'm going to post steps how I tore apart the headlight assemblies because it got easier after practicing on the broken one. |
I took it to a place called CPR Cell Phone Repair in Round Rock. The owner likes to tinker with cars and took an interest in it. I don't have his name, but the number for the store is 512-215-2157. Give them a call and see what they say. If you are unable to send it to them, shoot me another message and let's talk about how you can get me your boards. I'm happy to drop them off and see what they can do. BTW, I was not able to see your PM. So, make sure to post comments on this thread.
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Well done!
Many of the issues described on this board could be attributed to bad grounds both inside an assembly but also in the wiring harness and who it attaches to the body. All of my harness to body grounds were badly corroded and required clean up. Bad grounds cause low voltage issues and random electrical issues. So frustrating to fix! I had a lot car with an old harness. I ended up replacing it with a new loom just to be done with the repairs.... |
Follow up on repair referral
MARC - I called CPR and talked to someone who remembered you and the repair. The tech who did it has moved on to an IT security job out of state.
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Originally Posted by veijones
(Post 4840943)
MARC - I called CPR and talked to someone who remembered you and the repair. The tech who did it has moved on to an IT security job out of state.
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Originally Posted by FLMan
(Post 4874003)
Many thanks to all that contributed to this thread. On my 2007 Vantage V8, I also recently had the left blinker failure message on the dash, then the rapid blinker, & finally after a few days no left front blinker (in headlight). I found the problem was indeed the left front headlight circuit board soldering failure mentioned above. I disassembled the headlight as described above, then had a local electronics shop resolder the major components (4 capacitors & 2 inductors) on the board for $100. Left directionals now work fine again. This fix was certainly more economical than the local AM dealership which quoted me $2,700 for a new headlight & several hundred dollars in labor.
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Originally Posted by MRCW
(Post 4874013)
are you in Florida? what electronics shop did you use?
Also, regarding my original post, I should have stated the AM dealer quoted $2,700 for a new headlight plus labor (which would be another several hundred dollars). |
Hello everyone
I know this is an old thread but I need help. I have the led lights out on the drivers side and I've been attempting to take it apart but I just can't do it. I've read this thread at least three times and did everything I could (hairdryer in the box, multiple screwdrivers, etc.) but I cannot pry the lens off. I read that some one heard about someone offering this service in California?? I saw a service on ebay that's available in the UK which would be my last resort as shipping back and forth will be expensive. If anyone could help I'd really appreciate it. I'm located in San Diego CA area. Thank you |
mrtzmd, sorry you are having trouble. Wish you were closer to me (I am in Florida). I would be glad to open the headlight (I'm no expert, I have only done this one time). Opening the headlight is not for the faint of heart considering the price of a new headlight. Here is a thought, you might try reaching out to Steve in California that posts the "Aston1936.com" blog. He seems very knowledgeable about subjects like this & knows many of the shops in California that work on these cars.
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Thank you FLman, will do.
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