Vantage V8 fuel pump issue. Fuse vs Fuel pump driver module
 

Hello all.

I am having issues starting my 2007 V8 Vantage Manual.
At first the dash displayed "check battery disconnect switch" which I made sure was not activated. I also changed the battery. When i start the car, it cranks continuously but does not start. The dash displays there is no fuel in the car, however the tank is full (I just put in 5 gallons and topped it off)
I ran a diagnostic at my friends shop and it states the following errors:

P1233: Fuel Pump Driver Module off line
U0001: High Speed CAN communication BUS

It seems like there is a problem with the fuel pump, seeing that the car is showing no gas and the p1233 error. Is there any way to determine if this could be a faulty relay or fuse before I go ahead an buy a new fuel pump module? I unfortunately do not have the fuse diagram. Does anyone know what fuses and relays are responsible for the fuel pump system?
Also any idea on how/where to access the fuel pump module?

Thanks in advance

Don't confuse fuel pump with fuel pump driver module.

You should see if someone other than a friend with a shop has better skills or at least more knowledge of the vehicle. What's the history and how long has it been in this condition?

Fuel pump module is not sending its monitoring signal check to the PCM. Read the attached OBD2 info, check fuse F9 in trunk, see attached circuit diagram. FPDM is hard to get to, see picture.

Wow, thank you so much for the information!
With the code my car is giving, I am assuming either one of the fuses/relays is bad, or the actual Fuel pump driver module is bad.

I will start by checking all of the fuel pump related fuses:
-Fuse F9 in the trunk, Relay #2 in the trunk, and Diode#1.
-I also found some fuel pump related fuses in front of the passenger side seat (Although not labeled for fuel pump driver module - but the fuel pump itself): Fuse #47 and 74 under the pass side footwell are for the fuse pump.

If none of these are the culprit, my next step will be to replace the Fuel pump driver module. Does anyone know if this requires programming by the dealer? Unfortunately, the nearest dealer is miles away and would be a costly tow....which is the only reason I am trying to get the problem resolved at the shop that the car already is.

I wonder if the error is similar to those found in Ford's:
Same code found in F150 & Expedition, and same symptoms (Crank, No Start P1233)
As this year vantage is from the Ford years, i'm just curious if this could be a similar issue (even though our FDPM is not located externally as in the Ford)

Do you still have the "Check battery switch" msg in the dash? You have to resolve this issue first otherwise fuel will be cut from priming and injecting. You also have a CAN bus fault..I would track the battery switch msg and CAN fault.. It might lead you to replacing the FPM, but at least you would have been faulted guided into doing so.

First make sure the batt switch is passing the voltage through the switch and not just on the stay alive circuit feed... And then with the batt connected, check the CANHS and CANLS voltages in pins 3+11 and 6+14 of the diag port on body and 6+14 on engine. Then with batt disconnected check the resistance through the CAN circuits and make sure your at 60ohms.

If all checks out, check the voltage/ground/CAN at the FPM and confirm circuits are good. You can bypass the module(not for long) and confirm the issue is the module if you can prime the pump and get fuel pressure.

Hi, from across the pond, I'm chasing down the same issue on my UK 05 V8V and found your useful thread.

Triggered when I disconnected (good) battery for a hard reset to try and solve strange fault code for ABS/DTC module. (P0050 DTC Brake control module disturbance detection [radio frequency interface])

Have "Check battery off switch on DIM and temp gauge on full, check engine light on, trip milage showing - - - - , DTC unavaiable, Brake failure stop safely, which is what the owners manual describes as expected if "BDS pushed accidently"

Irish, could you clarify "Stay alive feed" please? On the bottom stud of the battery reset switch I get 0V when BDS switch is pressed and battery voltage when the reset switch is reset. Does this verify power supply?

Have U0001 and followed your voltage CAN checks as above. No voltage across 3 + 11, 4 + 16 body plug and 4 + 16 engine plug.

Thanks in advance, Quad

You should have battery voltage out of the BDS when it's not active.

When you have 0v, means the switch is active and keeping the circuit open and not sending power to the vehicle from battery, or the switch has fried itself and stuck open circuit..this happens when a positive cable or terminal contacts with chassis/negative(during a repair, like changing starts or alternator with batt still connected), it instantly kills the BDS.

I'm sure you have booster cables, use them to jump the switch and see if the vehicle functions normal. If it does, means you have a dead BDS that would need to be replaced.

Update: managed to take further measurements from both DTC plugs as suggested by Irish's post above.


0 volts at pins 3 + 11 and 6 + 14 on the body port and 6 + 14 on the engine port.


Resistance readings with battery disconnected, body port, across pins 3 + 11 - 61 ohms, across pins 4 + 16 - 59 ohms, pretty much as suggested. Engine port, across pins 3 + 11 - 121 ohms, across pins 4 + 16 - 0 ohms/open loop.


Suggestions please as to where to go/test next. Finding the wiring diagram I have unclear as to wire colours and pin numbers and which components are which pins located.


Thanks again in advance, quad.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...b24c93a4fe.jpg
Images of readings described



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120ohms on engine is normal because there's only 1 module with 1x 120ohms resistor. On the body plug 60ohms is expected because you have 2x 120ohms resistor wired in parallel.
You also have 0V on all the pins because you have zero battery power feeding the canbus system.

Do as I suggested in yesterday's reply, that will lead you towards a direction to follow.

Cheers for the clarification on the resistances Irish. Am confident the BDS is working corectly, (used a booster cable across it, no difference) now need to chase the feed for CAN network. The wiring diagram I've downloaded from FB group isnt as clear as the ones @rmrmd1956 posted so need them if you got them, please? Sheet 25 perhaps? Will ask him for them too.

Cheers, Quad

Hi @rmrmd1956 Do you have the wiring diagram similar to the ones you posted previously? Much clearer and easy to follow than what I've downloaded from the FB group.

Looking for power supply to the CAN network. Page 25 maybe?

Cheers, Quad

You can always pay for a day subscription to https://technicalhub.astonmartin.com/amtis/, and download all the information you need straight from AML.

If you have power going through the BDS, that means your CEM is dead/offline.

You don't have a canbus issue, you have a power issue. Modules cannot send canbus voltage unless they have power, trace down why your CEM module is not powering up and odds are you will find the route cause.

Thanks for that, I wasn't aware of that technical subscription possibility.

Quad