Flush your clutch fluid
 

I bought my 2012 Vantage one year ago with 5700 miles supposedly fully dealer serviced yearly from new it now has 15400 miles. I've never loved the way the clutch feels( had an shudder when engaging from a stop) but had the dealer check it out and was told it was fine. I took it for its first track day last week and this weekend was doing my usual post event fluid flush. The brake fluid looked fine coming out but when I purged the clutch slave the most disgusting dark murky fluid came out. I gave it a good flush and now the clutch feels fantastic. I do plan on discussing this with the dealer today but it was very clear that the fluid had never been flushed in the clutch system and clearly was effecting the clutch action.
I post incase anyone else is having some mild clutch issues its a quick easy job and had great results.

So it is about 5 years old. Has the brake fluid been flushed every 2 years? Clutch fluid is not part of the regular service. Good to know it does need to be flushed too. Was it easy?

The car was stamped as having yearly brake fluid flushes which I'm sure it did. Considering that they share the same reservoir I would think it would be the right thing to do as part of the fluid flush so as to not contaminate the clean fluid with the old crud in the clutch system, which is why I usually do both after a track day. With a pressure bleeder it is very easy to do and adds probably 5 min to the process. Unlike in my Evora where you have to be a toothpick armed contortionist to reach the clutch bleeder valve the Vantage valve is right out in the open at the right hand base of the bell housing.

Please can you post the clutch bleed procedure? For the Vantage

This please.

Don't forget to flush the blinker fluid every 5,000 miles or 6 months as well.

Very simple process basically the same as bleeding the brakes.
I use a Motiv pressure bleeder. which is attached to the master cylinder, though the old pump and bleed 2 person operation or vacuum bleeding would also work
The bleeding screw is a 9mm and can be found on the right hand side of the bell housing as shown
Attachment 484983
there is a 14 mm base nut , that is on the proximal side of the bracket to the bleeder, that should be used when loosening the bleeder to avoid torqueing the line.
Remove the dust cap
Open the valve with a suitable clear line attached and flush until nice clear fluid comes out.
Tighten bleeder
reapply dust cap

Thanks, that is very helpful. What brake fluid do you recommend?

Excellent info, Papigko!

I use Motul for pretty much everything. RBF600 has better specs than the original fluid and isn't nearly as expensive as Castrol SRF Racing (which costs ~3x as much).

Full disclosure, I ended up becoming a Motul partner lol

I too run Motul fluids If you are not doing heavy track duty the Motul 5.1 is a really great brake/clutch fluid that will stand up to a light track day and not absorb as much moisture and require as frequent bleeding as the RBF 600 or 500

Thanks, that is what I am looking for, :)

I did this as well and upgraded the fluid to Castro SRF as well for both the brakes and clutch fluid. The pedal definitely felt more direct afterwards. Both were sludge on mine because previous owner probably never flushed.

Castrol SRF lasts the longest of all break fluids. It's more expensive but worth every penny

Anyone in Canada know a Canadian source for Castrol SRF before I order the Motul RBF 600?

BTW - Anyone know offhand the fluid capacity (V8V) for the brakes and clutch - I want to flush the fluid completely. Thanks

I used 1250cc but I'm a bit obsessive with the flushing you probably could get by with a litre

Papigko, which model of Motiv pressure bleeder did you get to work with the Aston Martin Vantage as their site don't list Aston Martin. Thanks