yes, I do, I know I'm probably in the minority but I think it fills out the face of the car more and looks more 'aston' rather than 'ford focus' to me

 

 

Lol I remember that picture from a long time ago!

anyway here's the comparison I posted
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post4618952

Hope to see you at supercar saturdays in 2 weeks fellow Chicagoan!

 

My girlfriend has a Fusion and keeps joking about doing a photoshoot with the two Vantages and 'Rapide' -_-

I'm a fan of the bright-finish 8-bar grille, too

 

I am a fan of horizontal bar polished/chrome grilles. I am going to run my current 8 bar grille after I install the bumper upgrade kit to see how it looks.

 

I like the look of this too, especially since it does not require any drilling into the floor. Is there enough room to work underneath?

 

I live near South Barrington and should be able to make the one on the one on June 3rd. I will be on vacation so I can't make the May 6th date.

 

Thanks to Rich from Redpants. With the help from his diy videos I changed the oil and the transaxle oil today. The bypass filters torx bolts were stripped. Cut a slot in them with the dremel. Then used a chisel and a hammer to get them out. Next time will be easier because Rich supplied hex bolts to replace them. Sure made a mess when the oil came out from where the bypass filter are. Thanks again for the tip on the gear lube bottles. That worked great and didn't have to use a fluid pump.

 

Took my girl to a friends wedding & doubled up as bride's chauffeurhttp:///Users/graeme/Documents/Davis Sommerville/Cars & Bikes/Cars/Aston/Photos/Steve & Doris Wedding/FullSizeRender.jpg

 

Yes, it can be raised to a position about 6" taller than the one in the photo. Then there is enough room underneath to roll under on a creeper and work comfortably or to slide under and lay on your side. If I slide under on my back without a creeper I can nearly fully extend my arms upwards. It would be tall enough to do a clutch job on a Vantage.

I was at a Chump Car race at Road America all weekend and brought the Quickjacks along. What a Godsend when the exhaust fell off our car and we needed to work underneath to repair it. Also was great for changing brake pads and rotating tires. Jack stands seem positively lethal in comparison.

 

Stop your *****in'...

I didn't have to go to the DMV to reg my 'new' used car, dealer did it for me. But on the other hand, it did cost me $10K..

Had PPF applied to her today. They even did the black anodized tread plates, the nameplate inserts, and the wings badge on the hood. Can't even see it...

 

Changed my wheel order for my red car from polished to gloss black, and decided to keep all the black on the car (except the roof, the girlfriend really doesn't like it lol). The red and black scheme has really grown on me quite a bit and I'm going to stick with it.

Glad I could help!

Ouch....

 

Been a fun week after getting car back from Motorwerks. Grilled, paint correction and G technic coating, and vanity plate. Now for some interior mods and HFC cats and tune.

 

So this morning I started my car and I got the "Left Indicator" bulb out warning. All the indicators work. Upon further investigation with a multi-meter I can see the following:

1) My left tail light has an open ohm reading between the wire that powers the rear indicator LEDs (12VDC) and one of the ground wires in the harness. That particular wire appears to be part of the car's bulb failure circuit. It has continuity to ground on the vehicle harness. I will finish the pin outs and save it for anyone ever wanting to diagnose their tail lights on their Aston. I am going on vacation tomorrow but will try my best to do it tonight.

2) I measured a known good LED tail light and it reads 75 OHMs of resistance across the two pins in question (when disconnected from the car). I will check my other clear tail light and verify this resistance is the same or similar to my old pair of red tail lights.

3) I rigged up a 70 OHM load resistor (had a few laying around in the garage) temporarily across the two pins in question and the error message went away once I put the tail light back in.



What this tells me is the ground path (for the indicator sensing circuit) from my factory harness is open inside my tail light.

This leaves me two options:
1) Leave the load resistor in and never know if a bulb fails. There will be no error message and saves me from a new tail light or opening mine up. (kind of a lazy way to do it IMO) My OCD will probably get to me knowing that there is some "ghetto rigged" fix.

2) Open the light up and trace the failure out. I think I will do this but I would hate to damage the light in the process. I do have an electronics background but I have never separated a lens from a tail light. I will need to do some due diligence in the research department.

 

First off a big thanks to handyman 2009. Took the rear bumper off to fix the bumper bracket. It was making a bump on the bumper. Also replaced a missing screw on one of the license fillers. Amazing how much work to replace a missing screw and adjust the bumper bracket. I guess I'm getting old or am not much of a mechanic. Took all day today. Of course I have to clean everything in sight before I put it back together.