Aston Martin DB7, DB9, DBS, Vantage V8, Vanquish, and Classic models

Special Vehicle Care 101: General Cleaning

  #31  
Old 12-05-2017, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by speedracer800
Just had my Detailer polish the piano black interior panels in my car while I have everything removed for my new plated ***** and the installation of a glass button kit and then he coated with sealer to help keep protected from the dreaded swirl marks and scratches from routine cleaning. I'm so glad you turned me on to this stuff!
I like using "Pledge" or similar brand of furniture spray on the wood or smooth finished areas inside the car. Cleans and waxes in one step with nice smell. Just like our house keepers use on the furniture.
 
  #32  
Old 12-05-2017, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by DetomasoGTS74
Great write up! I feel a foam cannon should not be optional if going as far as to recommend a triple bucket wash. For those of us whose cars never see rain and just have dust/road grime I find the foam cannon lifts and removes 80% of everything before the mitt even touches the car!

I also love the master blaster. As long as the car is waxed or ceramic coated it literally blows right off without ever touching the car. Everyone that has seen it in all of its heated, filtered dual motored air action has bought one.

I have been following a similar process as you over the past 10 years and 42k miles and car still looked new. I just had paint corrected and lifetime ceramic coating added (4 layers of Ceramic Pro 9H and a layer of ceramic pro light on top) last week. Like you I did not add for some time but I didnt make the commitment due to the cost and the fact that I enjoy waxing.

Now that I have I would highly recommended as the car has never shined like it does today nor felt as slick and I have literally tried dozens of waxes and sealants over the years. They make special maintence product you can add every 6 months to keep it looking just as good as it does today that is a lot easier to apply than waxing and again the car looks better than waxes and sealants.

**Edit** After looking into 3M's new product mentioned above, Expel and SunTek I went with Suntek wrap 2 weeks ago over entire front of car, sills and rockers. Suntek looked clearest to me but in reality all three looked similar....to me what I realized is you want to solve for the best installer and in this case its Bespoke here in Austin and he happens to work with Suntek.
REFLEX from AMMO provides that extra pop in gloss similar to the glass/ceramic coatings. That allows me to continue to stay away from the coating for exotics or rare cars. Not edited yet, but see my next thread on coatings and protection. I will go over pluses and minuses. It takes me 25min to put a sealant on the car and about the same for a carnauba. I use the GG 3" buffer with a no cut soft pad and the liquid or paste. This applies such a thin layer its easy to come off, so takes no time. No different than you having to apply RELOAD ever couple months. Then Essance Plus once or twice a year. Coatings are great for gloss and longevity, but in reality only last a few years then need reapplication. They cloud up over time also from road grime. Hence the subtle Essance plus which has fillers and coating properties to rejuvenate it.

100% correct----anyone who uses or personally sees a Master Blaster working buys it. Even the Sidekick people love when they see it.


PPF dealers-----issue is first finding someone; then if you can find one, making sure he is reputable and competent; then your most of the time subject to he uses for his supplier (SunTek, 3m, or Xpel). They are all good PPF companies. I have no preference nor experience with any of them, so cannot give an unbiased opinion on which to use, nor which one is clearer or easier to use.
 
  #33  
Old 12-05-2017, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by brightoncorgi
I like using "Pledge" or similar brand of furniture spray on the wood or smooth finished areas inside the car. Cleans and waxes in one step with nice smell. Just like our house keepers use on the furniture.
Piano black pieces are clear coated the same as your paint. Most companies wood is also clear coated. OUR wood is not, and not sure what is used.

The clear coated piano black can be treated the same as your vehicle paint. Ie......Paint Correction process. Using a compound then polish with a machine is best, then I prefer a coating applied but you can wax it just like paint. Cleaning should be done with products you would put on your paint. Pledge or any other household wood product I really have no knowledge to say its good or bad. I would use Spray detail or Spray wax on a MF towel to wipe them down from time to time. Mostly just dust it. I have wood on my waterfall and leather door caps so no clear coated items in my car.
 
  #34  
Old 12-05-2017, 09:07 AM
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I have done the traditional car wax on wood in previous cars. Works great, but I like smell of Pledge and it picks up dust while at it.
 
  #35  
Old 02-25-2018, 01:30 AM
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Bump to put this with the new thread
 
  #36  
Old 11-17-2018, 01:33 AM
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Do you guys recommend the Chenical guys Foam Wash Gun that attaches to water hose? I’ve never used something like this before. What’s really the difference between watering down the car, then using buckets and mittens etc? Just saves time or is it really a waste of money?

also there are so many variations of chemical guys 1 gallon liquid soaps. Are there really differences or is it just the scent? Max suds II vs Mr Pink etc
 
  #37  
Old 11-17-2018, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingit
Do you guys recommend the Chenical guys Foam Wash Gun that attaches to water hose? I’ve never used something like this before. What’s really the difference between watering down the car, then using buckets and mittens etc? Just saves time or is it really a waste of money?

also there are so many variations of chemical guys 1 gallon liquid soaps. Are there really differences or is it just the scent? Max suds II vs Mr Pink etc
I use a foam gun for a quick general washing, as it is easier than getting out my foam cannon that attaches to my pressure washer. I use the cannon when i am washing multiple vehicles or then my PW is already out. I I think it works great
 
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Old 11-17-2018, 07:13 AM
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I use the Chemical guys foam cannon with an ordinary garden hose. I initially water the car down and then apply a generous amount of soap with the foam cannon before using a wash mitt. I do think the foam cannon helps loosen any dirt on the car surface before using the wash mitt.
 
  #39  
Old 11-17-2018, 04:01 PM
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The Chemical Guys foamer or the Gilmour Foamaster II are both great for gettin extra foam lubrication between the wash mitt (or mf towel) and the paint. The more foam that is used to help pull the dirt and particles away from the paint the better.

Jason-----what you are possibly missing is that I would charge you approximately $1500 to 2k just to paint correct (remove swirls and scratches, except deep ones) then charge you $550 - 1.5k depending on AMMO Paint Regimen or a complete wheels, trim, and paint Coating. (22ple Mistico Elemento, or Kamikaze products).

Now look at taking care of the paint preventing swirls and scratches after spending anywhere from 1.5k to 3k getting the paint better than factory new. Yes, you would want to baby it completely and then prices start not mattering much due to the huge expense if you input swirls into the paint. You will anyway to a small degree, but its the difference between 3 years and 5 years most likely.
 
  #40  
Old 11-18-2018, 01:29 AM
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I guess coming to the AM world soon, you have to pay to play. Exciting but very different compared to the beemer world. Andrew has been a wealth of information and really understands his stuff. A lot of the products I had no idea existed but some of the products are expensive for my tastes like the $400 blower. I did not even know that people use kirkland microfiber to wash the cars as I always used a mitten. I always thought that the microfibers were only used to dry the car off.

When it comes to caranuaba waxes, do you guys have one that works well and does it cause clear bras to yellow or get stuck where the edges are?
Anyone have experience with Chemical Guys Butter Wax (seems like most of their products are above average and highly recommended) this
Amazon Amazon
 
  #41  
Old 11-18-2018, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingit
I guess coming to the AM world soon, you have to pay to play. Exciting but very different compared to the beemer world. Andrew has been a wealth of information and really understands his stuff. A lot of the products I had no idea existed but some of the products are expensive for my tastes like the $400 blower. I did not even know that people use kirkland microfiber to wash the cars as I always used a mitten. I always thought that the microfibers were only used to dry the car off.

When it comes to caranuaba waxes, do you guys have one that works well and does it cause clear bras to yellow or get stuck where the edges are?
Anyone have experience with Chemical Guys Butter Wax (seems like most of their products are above average and highly recommended) this https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys...mical+guys+wax
Pant Protection Film does not yellow any more. The manufacturers changed the glues and gave the film other properties to prevent that. PPF should not be left on the paint over 7-8 years. It is a disposable product, sacrificial layer, not a permanent film. Although people treat it that way due to the expense. No one likes to have theirs removed at a what could be expensive cost ($175 per hr and if the film comes off in small pieces due to its being on there so long can rack up a bill) and then pay 2-3k to have the front end done again.

All things wiped on the surface and over the edges of PPF will stick in the edges. Where those are, wipe on one direction and then make sure your clean that edge good. Spray wax on a mf towel helps to loosen the wax in the edge.

Butter Wet Wax is a carnauba liquid wax that from what I can tell only lasts about 4 weeks just like all the other carnaubas. Its a ok product but get ready to wax the car every 4 washes by hand that is. You need a sealant similar to Blackfire's, Ammo's, Pinnacle Liquid Souveran, etc......

You pay for what you get typically in the detailing world. Cheap price doesn't mean bad, but its typically less of the protecting qualities than the more expensive products.
 
  #42  
Old 11-18-2018, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingit
I guess coming to the AM world soon, you have to pay to play. Exciting but very different compared to the beemer world. Andrew has been a wealth of information and really understands his stuff. A lot of the products I had no idea existed but some of the products are expensive for my tastes like the $400 blower. I did not even know that people use kirkland microfiber to wash the cars as I always used a mitten. I always thought that the microfibers were only used to dry the car off.

When it comes to caranuaba waxes, do you guys have one that works well and does it cause clear bras to yellow or get stuck where the edges are?
Anyone have experience with Chemical Guys Butter Wax (seems like most of their products are above average and highly recommended) this https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys...mical+guys+wax

You do not really have to "pay" to play...Much of the detailing stuff is not that expensive, especially if you look for alternative sources... For instance, I bought a blaster air blower from a pet supply place on line... Same exact specs as the more expensive "auto " one but about 2/3 price... You can get good quality products without the high price for a "name," especially if you just want to keep your car looking good but not concours ready... Remember, many Vantages are aging and not super expensive any more and may not need a $1,000 detail every six months or 1,500 miles, whichever comes first...

I look at balance and moderation. That being said, I did my own paint correction on my car ( took about 16 hours) when i first got it and had a detailer tweak it and put a ceramic coating on it... I think that was a good $800 investment for the next several years. I do mini washes every couple months or after a nasty driving day ( take about 40 minutes or so) and an annual detail and recoat for about $150 from my detailer. I keep up several other vehicles and a couple of boats, so I've learned to not be so **** about keeping everything pristine...Clean and shiny but I'm not one to detail a car after every drive...

There are lots of places in between. Good luck with your new car!
 
  #43  
Old 11-18-2018, 12:27 PM
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SheriffDep... Have you used this product...
"Aerolon Fast Wet-Applied Coating"

It seems that some guys at my marina are using it on their boats and my Bro in Law's pilot uses it on his planes... It seems that it is formulated for cars, boats. planes, etc. I'm going to try it on one of my boats but wanted to see if you've tried it on cars yet.
 
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Old 11-18-2018, 01:57 PM
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So I’m about to also buy a foam gun to make washing quicker. The foam gun videos suggest that I first foam the car and let it sit for a few minutes. Then it suggests that I continue to use bucket of soap and water to wash. Isn’t that redundant? Thought the purpose of the foam gun was to eliminate the extra step of bucket and soap/water?

Is washing the car with the foam that’s sprayed on, a no-no?
 
  #45  
Old 11-18-2018, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by powerbeautysoulAM
So I’m about to also buy a foam gun to make washing quicker. The foam gun videos suggest that I first foam the car and let it sit for a few minutes. Then it suggests that I continue to use bucket of soap and water to wash. Isn’t that redundant? Thought the purpose of the foam gun was to eliminate the extra step of bucket and soap/water?

Is washing the car with the foam that’s sprayed on, a no-no?
Foaming the vehicle helps to loosen the dirt and will drip away sand particles and other debris. I would rinse that off first with nozzle on jet. (that is the second rinse you have done without touching the paint) You still want to use two buckets and only use the wash mitt on one panel at a time before rinsing it out. So if you want to foam a panel and then take the wash mitt and wash the panel, the foam will only help to lubricate the mitt and foam away the dirt. Then wash the mitt out. Then next panel.

End of the day rinse, then foam, then rinse, then wash. I dont use two buckets, I use one mf towel per panel and then discard. Then another new one for the next panel and so on. So I never worry about transfer of particles in a mitt. Sometimes I use the foam when the vehicle is really dirty, but 95% of the vehicles I do are already cleaner than most cars out there.
 

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