Wheel Bearing issue?
#1
Wheel Bearing issue?
Thought I would ask you fine gentlemen your advice on this one. In the last couple of weeks I have noticed a low hum noise from about 30-40 mph that gets a little louder but drowned out then due to the engine noise / speed etc. So at this point not very loud but wasn't there previously. My first thoughts were a wheel bearing / brake dragging etc. I jacked car up and checked for any movement in the rim or noise from the bearing....nothing!. I then removed all the brakes, cleaned, greased were necessary and replaced. Still the noise is apparent. The only other symptom is the front right rotor and hub gets hotter than the rest. Do you think this is the early signs of a bearing failing? Thanks in advance.
#2
If you lift the car and grab thevwheel 6 o'clock & 12oclock u can rock it ? If you feel any movement it's bearing, you say one disk gets hotter. How are you getting this info? It may be that disk was working harder in the last part of your journey? Think abs intervention and surface.
dont discount tires for road noise, it can be very deceiving,
normally bearings are quick to diagnose, and a cheap to fix, then finally when did you do the gearbox oil?
dont discount tires for road noise, it can be very deceiving,
normally bearings are quick to diagnose, and a cheap to fix, then finally when did you do the gearbox oil?
#3
Yes, I know how to determine how the bearings are worn. Rocking the wheel etc and seeing if there is any play. I took the vehicle for a leisurely drive with the intention of braking as little as possible. ( I live in northern Maine and traveled some 12 miles without barely touching the brakes.) On arrival home the front right front rotor and hub was hotter than the rest. There is also definitely a hum. The brakes are not binding and they dont smell 'hot' as they would if they were. I am not sure when the gear oil was done but it had a service in the summer of 2016 prior to my purchasing it.
#5
Yes, I know how to determine how the bearings are worn. Rocking the wheel etc and seeing if there is any play. I took the vehicle for a leisurely drive with the intention of braking as little as possible. ( I live in northern Maine and traveled some 12 miles without barely touching the brakes.) On arrival home the front right front rotor and hub was hotter than the rest. There is also definitely a hum. The brakes are not binding and they dont smell 'hot' as they would if they were. I am not sure when the gear oil was done but it had a service in the summer of 2016 prior to my purchasing it.
#6
Unless the bearing is really bad , jacking the car and rocking the wheel wont tell you if its the problem . When you jack the car up you unload the bearing so it maybe nice and quiet . You could try the stethoscope test or the screwdriver to the ear test and compare it to the other hubs .While rotating the hub . Chances are you have a wheel bearing on the way out .
#7
I’ll start with stating I have no experience with Aston bearings.
I believe the right front temperature difference indicates a bearing or brake-dragging issue. Since it sounds like the car isn’t pulling to the right when you release the steering wheel while driving, then I would assume your bearing is the issue.
i use an IR temp gun to check hub and rotor temps of my older cars when wstching for brake or bearing issues.
I believe the right front temperature difference indicates a bearing or brake-dragging issue. Since it sounds like the car isn’t pulling to the right when you release the steering wheel while driving, then I would assume your bearing is the issue.
i use an IR temp gun to check hub and rotor temps of my older cars when wstching for brake or bearing issues.
Last edited by 62Jeff; 08-19-2018 at 07:22 AM.
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#8
If the right front rotor is heating up more than the others, you could have a piston hanging up in the front right caliper. I had similar symptoms in my 87 911. I replaced the calipers to solve the problem,
#10
How many miles, and had any impacts from curbs or harsh roads. Right fronts seem to get more abuse from rough road conditions.You will not feel movement when checking a cartridge bearing unless the wheel is about to fall off. But with the temp. Increase and noticeably more noise I'd consider the bearing replacement the next step. You have already taken it apart before so it's a fairly easy DIY bolt up installation, get new bolts with the hub assembly.
#11
How many miles, and had any impacts from curbs or harsh roads. Right fronts seem to get more abuse from rough road conditions.You will not feel movement when checking a cartridge bearing unless the wheel is about to fall off. But with the temp. Increase and noticeably more noise I'd consider the bearing replacement the next step. You have already taken it apart before so it's a fairly easy DIY bolt up installation, get new bolts with the hub assembly.
#12
Gotta agree with Vantagelvr above - you're not gonna learn much about the bearing with it up on jacks - possibly though if you turn by hand with a hose to your ear or with a stethoscope. This is from my old school days:
Checking for a worn wheel bearing: Try doing tight figure 8's at about 10-15 mph (not at high speed) in an empty parking lot - radio off - windows down. If the bearing is shot you'll hear the droning when you make particular turns one way as the stress is on the opposite side.
Checking for a sticking or seized caliper: A seized caliper should be pretty easy to diagnose. Go for a 15 minute trip (try not to brake too much) and when you return immediately spray water onto the caliper and rotor using a Windex type bottle. Do both sides - you'll know by the sizzle (steam etc.) whether it's not releasing properly while driving.
Checking for a worn wheel bearing: Try doing tight figure 8's at about 10-15 mph (not at high speed) in an empty parking lot - radio off - windows down. If the bearing is shot you'll hear the droning when you make particular turns one way as the stress is on the opposite side.
Checking for a sticking or seized caliper: A seized caliper should be pretty easy to diagnose. Go for a 15 minute trip (try not to brake too much) and when you return immediately spray water onto the caliper and rotor using a Windex type bottle. Do both sides - you'll know by the sizzle (steam etc.) whether it's not releasing properly while driving.
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