You would be insane to let them touch your car..........

 

I usually stand there and watch them like a hawk. The few tire places that I have seen and used have machines now that hover above the rim face so when the bar is put under the tire lip, it does not touch the wheel, (like the old ones used too). Any Rim shop most likely has these tools anyway, so wouldn't hurt to pay a bit more. But again, you have to just make sure they jack it up correctly.

If we can jack our cars ourselves in our own garage and done worry about ti, then I dont see why you cant show someone exactly where to jack the car up and be fine also.

Wheel marks------ ask first, and see what they do if one is scuffed. If not to your liking then dont have them done there. Dealers are no different, and I bet $100 the dealers tire install machine is not as up to date as one of these tire shops is. Just my .02

 

So is the Aston Martin dealer (at least mine is). They know how expensive the wheels are and certainly don't want to get into fixing wheels when they don't need to. Regular tire shop just sees this as another scratched wheel. Aston dealer sees this as Vanquish wheel or what have you. They are use to working on such cars all day long, know their customers expectations and have service level that needs to be maintained per having a franchise. Some things are just worth the extra money to ensure it's done right.

That being said, the last tires the AM dealer replaced for me they did not remove the previous weight tape residue. I was not happy at all with that and had to bring the car back. NTB does that for me (I asked ahead of time) and figured AM dealer would just know to do that since I was paying like $40 a wheel for the install. That residue is pet peeve of mine.

 

I know the cars have staggered wheels so cannot rotate front to back. Can you rotate side to side (in front) and side to side (in back)?

 

Not sure why'd you do this, that is a sign of a needed wheel alignment if you're getting uneven tire wear on the same axle

 

There is no real benefit from this, tires wear good on these cars unless something is damaged or out of specifications. Only reason to switch side to side is diagnostic routine for a tire pull condition. Then your just going tire shopping after that.

 

 

 

You can't rotate staggered tire setups, front tires wont match rear tire - tire rotation works on vehicles where all 4 tires are the same size. There is no point in doing these on our cars, most likely the tires you put on your Aston/are recommended, will also have directional tread patterns. If you were to rotate left with right, you would have to dismount and remount to flip the tread patterns to match. If one side is wearing out quicker than the other, this is indicative of some sort of alignment/camber/balance/etc. issues

The reason you rotate tires from front to back and vice versa, is depending on the vehicle (RWD, FWD), one set of tires is going to wear out quicker than the other - the set that has power going to the tires

 

This was an Aston Martin dealer?

 

 

FCKAM is $90/wheel for the install, plus tax comes out to over $400.

I pulled the weights and cleaned the residue before taking mine in just to make sure it was done right.

 

Dealers care only as much as the customer does. Maybe some remove weights and others forget. What I HATE at tire places, is that they take a plastic scraper and just try and scrape the old weights off. Then take some type of liquid cleaner on a red shop rag and scrub to get the glue and foam off.

@HaibtualOffender How to you remove the weights without scratching the barrel? I would love to know this. My barrels are as pristine as the paint on the car, but there is some tape left from when I had them balanced and new weights went on. I dont want to damage the clear coat on the wheels.

 

You shouldn't have to put weights on the outside of the wheel in almost all AM balances. As to removing weights on the inside.....How are they supposed to remove them? Hell, I'm impressed if they even try to remove the old goo.......WD 40 will safely remove goo on the outside faces.

 

I used a flathead screwdriver and a wood shim with a rag wrapped around it and just pulled up on the edge of each weight till it popped off with my fingers holding on so they wouldn't bounce around the barrel, 1 at a time. Left most of the foam goo which I mostly scrapped off with my fingernail, then [I would have used 3M adhesive remover [red can] if I could have found mine but I grabbed a can of naptha and soaked them good. I have plastic razor blades for working on paint and lubed with naptha I left no evidence the weights were ever there. You can use goo gone but I didn't want to leave any film as I didn't know where they were going to put weights back on. Turns out he put them fully on the inside edge of the rims.