Underhood lighting for V12 vents
#1
Underhood lighting for V12 vents
I'm thinking of having underhood lighting added (see picts below). I have 'tailgate' LED's and temporarily taped them in the inside of the hood and wrapped them around a ground and the battery '+' connect to see what they would look like. I did this also (see below) on a Chevy Powered Porsche 928 I had but in red LED's. What I'd do is tap somewhere that is easily accessed under hood if possible. There does not seem to be many options - I'd want hem to just be on all the time when the key is inserted either in the accessory and start positions or simply when the engine is on. Any suggestions for those that know the V12S areas I can easily tap onto? They will likely be professionally installed as I'd probably find some way to screw it up if I did it. Also picts below show white LED's - I could go a color like I did on the 928... thoughts?
#2
When I built my Halo headlights for my Vantage I pondered illuminating the inside front grill. After testing I dismissed it as I thought it was tacky. Not saying your hood grill lights would be - but the halos were enough light mods for me.
EDIT: Forgot to mention - primary reason I went this way (added harness and separate relay) is so that everything can be removed and all the original wiring left intact with NO splicing or even stripping of wire insulation.
In regard to your wiring. It is very easy. You can do it the exact same way. See diagram. If you wire like this using a fuse tap then the lights will activate when the IGN=ON (KL15). If you wanted to also activate the grill lights via the remote, tie them in via the passenger footwell light (piggyback on the +12V feed to the light) - so when you press the remote and the comfort lights activate - so will the grill lights. They will stay on after IGN=OFF as long as the comfort lights (User selectable on the Entertainment Unit - I think it is 15 or 30 sec intervals. ) I tapped into fuse slot F6 in the engine bay. It is an Ignition Supply From CEM - marked SPARE (on my vehicle diagram). Use the wiring diagram for your model to find a similar available, matching fuse slot in the engine bay fuse box. You will also find a suitable grounding point. I used one near the fusebox that the fender bolts onto - it had other grounds attached. The wiring harness you buy will have everything needed (except the fuse tap, solder, shrink tape. You can't see anything unusual looking in my engine bay and no stray wires - unless a keen eye notices the extra relay.
On my Halos install I tapped into F6 in the engine bay. It is live at KL15 (Ignition ON). I had the lights hooked up to the footwell so that they came on with the remote but I ended up disconnecting that and just have them come on now with IGN=ON.
Here's the new relay mounted in the engine bay
You will need to buy a generic (amazon link provided) -Typically $12-30 - comes with relay and fuse. You need to buy the appropriate size . (amazon link provided) About $10.
Here's the Halos
EDIT: Forgot to mention - primary reason I went this way (added harness and separate relay) is so that everything can be removed and all the original wiring left intact with NO splicing or even stripping of wire insulation.
In regard to your wiring. It is very easy. You can do it the exact same way. See diagram. If you wire like this using a fuse tap then the lights will activate when the IGN=ON (KL15). If you wanted to also activate the grill lights via the remote, tie them in via the passenger footwell light (piggyback on the +12V feed to the light) - so when you press the remote and the comfort lights activate - so will the grill lights. They will stay on after IGN=OFF as long as the comfort lights (User selectable on the Entertainment Unit - I think it is 15 or 30 sec intervals. ) I tapped into fuse slot F6 in the engine bay. It is an Ignition Supply From CEM - marked SPARE (on my vehicle diagram). Use the wiring diagram for your model to find a similar available, matching fuse slot in the engine bay fuse box. You will also find a suitable grounding point. I used one near the fusebox that the fender bolts onto - it had other grounds attached. The wiring harness you buy will have everything needed (except the fuse tap, solder, shrink tape. You can't see anything unusual looking in my engine bay and no stray wires - unless a keen eye notices the extra relay.
On my Halos install I tapped into F6 in the engine bay. It is live at KL15 (Ignition ON). I had the lights hooked up to the footwell so that they came on with the remote but I ended up disconnecting that and just have them come on now with IGN=ON.
Here's the new relay mounted in the engine bay
You will need to buy a generic (amazon link provided) -Typically $12-30 - comes with relay and fuse. You need to buy the appropriate size . (amazon link provided) About $10.
Here's the Halos
Last edited by BMW-North; 01-02-2019 at 10:50 PM.
#5
No did not remember posting before - saw a video of a V12S with extensive lighting changes but thought the Vent lighting was cool, and does not change anything on the car that's visible otherwise - keeping it somewhat original.
#7
Not sure if that was for the OP or my response? If for me, I couldn’t care what you think. My DRL solution works a lot better than Aston Martins solution for DRL, (they have none - they just turn all lights on at KL15) plus my clear tail light upgrade doesn’t stay lit every time the engine is on, never mind the ultra cheap side markers with single 10 cent bulb that AM has turn on as well. The headlights on these have to be opened at some point, if only to fix the poor quality assembly that came from the factory...may as well do something to make them seem a little more current and than the 1990’s style that they look now.
Point of my post wasn’t to recommend, approve or disapprove of the OPs choice, just to share with him how he could wire it with simplicity and full ability to revert.
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#8
When I built my Halo headlights for my Vantage I pondered illuminating the inside front grill. After testing I dismissed it as I thought it was tacky. Not saying your hood grill lights would be - but the halos were enough light mods for me.
EDIT: Forgot to mention - primary reason I went this way (added harness and separate relay) is so that everything can be removed and all the original wiring left intact with NO splicing or even stripping of wire insulation.
EDIT: Forgot to mention - primary reason I went this way (added harness and separate relay) is so that everything can be removed and all the original wiring left intact with NO splicing or even stripping of wire insulation.
#9
Not sure if that was for the OP or my response? If for me, I couldn’t care what you think. My DRL solution works a lot better than Aston Martins solution for DRL, (they have none - they just turn all lights on at KL15) plus my clear tail light upgrade doesn’t stay lit every time the engine is on, never mind the ultra cheap side markers with single 10 cent bulb that AM has turn on as well. The headlights on these have to be opened at some point, if only to fix the poor quality assembly that came from the factory...may as well do something to make them seem a little more current and than the 1990’s style that they look now.
Point of my post wasn’t to recommend, approve or disapprove of the OPs choice, just to share with him how he could wire it with simplicity and full ability to revert.
Thanks
#11
I'll take the link too...
#14
Putting this pdf together proved to be more than an hour or two so I have thrown together a draft version which I will finish later (within the next 2-3 weeks) with links for each component and finalize the harness routing. In the meantime you get the idea and if you're confident enough to tackle this as a DIY well you probably know what I haven't yet put in the doc.
Draft AE Install DIY
Updated slightly Jan 14 -2019 - editing
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Draft AE Install DIY
Updated slightly Jan 14 -2019 - editing
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Last edited by BMW-North; 01-14-2019 at 07:43 AM.