2009 DB9. Took the car out for a drive and noticed my analog clock not moving. Owners manual says the under hood fuse 2 is for the clock, tested it and replaced it, still dead. Any ideas how to get it moving again? I haven’t seen any thread of outright failures, so I’m hoping it’s something more benign. Is there a different fuse that could be blown? No other symptoms that I’ve noticed.

 

Have you tried maybe setting a different time and see if the clock reacts?

 

Yeah, clock doesn’t react. I scanned the computer and came up with the following. Car was running great with no lights or warnings on the dash, only thing I noticed was the clock. I’m hoping it’s just a bad battery causing gremlins, going to swap tomorrow.

The software incompatibility is coming from the Steering Angle Sensor and could be related to a tune I recently installed.

Oddly enough, the battery voltage error is coming from the Sirius Radio module.

 

I have 2 of the same DTC as well:
4. Battery Temp Error
5. Open Circuit for Hazard Switch Lamp
Haven't been able to sort them out...

 

you can try to clear out old codes by disconnecting both battery cables, (neg first) then hold them together for 60 seconds or more, then reconnect (neg last)

 

The dealership used to disconnect something behind the center console to adjust the clock when I did annual service.

 

Is your clock working? 😂

 

Haha yes it is

 

It is something I am contemplating, yes. But I am worried about potential "side effects". Like the misfire monitoring / seats calibration / ...?

 

I understand this, for sure.

I've done this to my Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, Volvo and a few American (Ford, Ram) brands. Each time I experienced the usual battery disconnect issues, such as reset radio presets, clock, etc.. it's supposed to get residual capacitor currents discharged from modules to reset then to factory, default...

I will say I have not done to do this to my Aston because I've been fortunate to have only a couple of minor glitches with a door module in the past 9 years I've owned my car.

that being said, most of the module are branded from other manufacturers such as Ford, volvo etc...

there are YouTube videos on this.

 

Ok, I still don’t know if any of this is related because the new battery is charging, but here’s what I found when pulling the old battery:

• The lower battery surround was missing the top two bolts securing it to the body.
• The battery itself had been replaced by an AGM with no date on it.
• The vent tube was not routed through the under body grommet and was vented into the cabin.
• - The plug for the opposite vent on the battery was not installed, it too was vented to cabin.
• The negative terminal was slightly corroded but not bad.

I’ve cleaned everything up and installed the new lead-acid battery. I replaced the missing bolts and have it charging now. I still have not connected the car’s leads and have them zip tied together to discharge any capacitors.

I also wonder if charging the old battery with my charger set for lead-acid rather than AGM has been undercharging and causing some of the gremlins I’ve been seeing.

 

Update: battery is fully charged. Performed window reset, seat reset, and misfire relearn. When I connected the battery, the clock moved/reset from where it had been stuck at about 4:15 all the way to midnight. However, it has not moved since, despite me setting the time in the radio. Also, all previous dtc codes are re-tripped, despite me connecting the positive and negative cables together to clear memory and drain capacitors. Engine is running fine *knock on wood*.