Bentley Continental GT/GTC/Flying Spur DIY Thread
#136
02-06-2016, 05:52 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Portsmouth
Age: 61
Posts: 36
Rep Power: 11 
Car is now back from Bentley Surrey. Engine light fault was diagnosed as a Lambda sensor.... Yup.... One of the 2 that can't be changed without removing the engine.
So it's had the engine out under warranty. I went in to see it while it was out ..... Big job!
I paid to have the other lambda done, the hoses on top of the gearbox and a couple of other bits and bobs. Quite pricey, but better than taking the engine out again.
The tech' at Bentley had previously pointed out that the top wishbone bushes looked perished. When the front subframe was out of the way, it became clear that a bit perished meant totally knackered! I had them changed too. I can't say I can tell much difference in the taughtness of the suspension, but it tracks much better now and doesn't wander as much as it used to. Money well spent because it will probably also reduce tyre wear.
I had considered trying to fit new bushes to the old wishbones, but as the subframe was already out, it made sense to tell Bentley to do it. Has anyone ever re-bushed any of the suspension without buying whole assemblies?
When the car came back, there is a new error code for the front left tweeter - intermittent short to earth. The tweeter has been cutting in and out over bumps since I bought the car (very annoying), but it has never logged a code for it before. I found a loose connection behind the trim in the door jam under the offending tweeter. Seems to have resolved it but only time and a few bumpy miles will tell. Anyone come across this before?
If anyone in the UK wants to buy an older GT, go and speak to the bloke who sold me this one. He has been a superstar throughout. He dealt with the warranty people, negotiated with Bentley to make sure the quotations were achievable, and has made absolutely certain that I was well looked after. He specialises in GTs and knows what he is talking about. Synergy motors is the name of his business. No he hasn't paid me to say any of this, he is a top bloke.
Car has been gone for 3 weeks in total, at last it's back and running like a Swiss watch.
So it's had the engine out under warranty. I went in to see it while it was out ..... Big job!
I paid to have the other lambda done, the hoses on top of the gearbox and a couple of other bits and bobs. Quite pricey, but better than taking the engine out again.
The tech' at Bentley had previously pointed out that the top wishbone bushes looked perished. When the front subframe was out of the way, it became clear that a bit perished meant totally knackered! I had them changed too. I can't say I can tell much difference in the taughtness of the suspension, but it tracks much better now and doesn't wander as much as it used to. Money well spent because it will probably also reduce tyre wear.
I had considered trying to fit new bushes to the old wishbones, but as the subframe was already out, it made sense to tell Bentley to do it. Has anyone ever re-bushed any of the suspension without buying whole assemblies?
When the car came back, there is a new error code for the front left tweeter - intermittent short to earth. The tweeter has been cutting in and out over bumps since I bought the car (very annoying), but it has never logged a code for it before. I found a loose connection behind the trim in the door jam under the offending tweeter. Seems to have resolved it but only time and a few bumpy miles will tell. Anyone come across this before?
If anyone in the UK wants to buy an older GT, go and speak to the bloke who sold me this one. He has been a superstar throughout. He dealt with the warranty people, negotiated with Bentley to make sure the quotations were achievable, and has made absolutely certain that I was well looked after. He specialises in GTs and knows what he is talking about. Synergy motors is the name of his business. No he hasn't paid me to say any of this, he is a top bloke.
Car has been gone for 3 weeks in total, at last it's back and running like a Swiss watch.
#138
03-17-2016, 04:19 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Portsmouth
Age: 61
Posts: 36
Rep Power: 11
I am about to start playing about with the exhaust bypass valves. However, instead of just disconnecting and blanking the vacuum hoses, I intend to fit a latching push button in the car, so I can switch it to loud if I feel noisy, or let it do its civilised thing when I have a hangover. Having looked through the information I can get hold of, it looks to me like the vacuum solenoids for each exhaust flap are operated by the relevant engine ECU - specifically from pin 18 on each bank ECU.
I have noticed that the flaps don't actually operate at the same time, so the other thing I intend to do is connect them together electricaly so that either ECU will operate both flaps.
From what I can work out, each vacuum solenoid is fed from a separate 12v feed (fuses 7 & 8), although these supplies also feed other kit, so switching the power isn't an easy option. I am assuming that the ECUs provide an earth for each solenoid when they operate, so my intention is to fit a relay in the scuttle next to the engine ECUs, which will Earth (or disconnect - not sure which way yet) the vacuum solenoids when either of the ECUs or the the switch inside the car completes the circuit.
Does anyone know if I need to fit diodes in the circuit between the ECUs (will an earth connection on one ECU pin 18 have any effect on the other ECU).
Any help or experience would be very much appreciated.
I have noticed that the flaps don't actually operate at the same time, so the other thing I intend to do is connect them together electricaly so that either ECU will operate both flaps.
From what I can work out, each vacuum solenoid is fed from a separate 12v feed (fuses 7 & 8), although these supplies also feed other kit, so switching the power isn't an easy option. I am assuming that the ECUs provide an earth for each solenoid when they operate, so my intention is to fit a relay in the scuttle next to the engine ECUs, which will Earth (or disconnect - not sure which way yet) the vacuum solenoids when either of the ECUs or the the switch inside the car completes the circuit.
Does anyone know if I need to fit diodes in the circuit between the ECUs (will an earth connection on one ECU pin 18 have any effect on the other ECU).
Any help or experience would be very much appreciated.
#139
03-17-2016, 04:21 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Portsmouth
Age: 61
Posts: 36
Rep Power: 11
Incidentally, I sprayed the lower front grilles up with chrome effect paint at the weekend. Just done a 600 mile trip in the car and put it through a car wash with no apparent deterioration of the paint finish, and it has transformed the look of the front of the car. I will try and work out how to put some pictures on here.
https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=DEA73...!56367&o=OneUp
https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=DEA73...!56367&o=OneUp
Last edited by Stevieshutts; 03-19-2016 at 06:53 PM. Reason: picture
#140
03-18-2016, 05:10 AM
Hi Stevie.
Can't help with the diode question but would love to see how good the chrome paint job is.
I did mine in metallic silver and lacquer. They do look much better IMO, but I have often wondered about how good the chrome would turn out.
My bypasses were done when I bought the car. The noise isn't as bad as you would imagine. The car is double glazed remember!
Sounds good from the outside though.
Les.
Can't help with the diode question but would love to see how good the chrome paint job is.
I did mine in metallic silver and lacquer. They do look much better IMO, but I have often wondered about how good the chrome would turn out.
My bypasses were done when I bought the car. The noise isn't as bad as you would imagine. The car is double glazed remember!
Sounds good from the outside though.
Les.
#141
03-18-2016, 05:42 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Portsmouth
Age: 61
Posts: 36
Rep Power: 11 
The finish on the grilles initially looked very much like chrome, but now after a few days of wind and weather, a little more like polished aluminium. On close inspection, you can tell they've been painted, but unless you get down on your hands and knees in front of the car (and I can see why people might want to do this) it looks perfect.
I tried putting a picture on here (several times) without success. The link should take you to a folder which has quite a few pictures in there, including Bentley Surrey taking the engine out, and my handiwork breaking into the ECU plugs to get to the exhaust flap wiring.
https://onedrive.live.com/?id=DEA73F...A73F069A8E3159
This morning, I cut the wires I had looped into the Engine ECUs to see what would happen and .............. the exhaust flaps opened up. So at least I picked the correct wires. Next step is to fit a switch and a relay so that I can leave them open, or let the ECUs pretend to be civilised.
The pictures in the link show the ECU plugs with their caps removed, then I cut into the pin 18 wire from each plug (one is blue and the other is slate and red) and soldered a long loop into each wire so I can play with it without mauling the ECUs any more.
Last edited by Stevieshutts; 03-18-2016 at 09:44 AM. Reason: Update
#142
03-19-2016, 06:15 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Portsmouth
Age: 61
Posts: 36
Rep Power: 11
Exhaust flap switch fitted and working....
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...8E3159%2156483
Essentially, what I did was tap into the looms for the engine ECUs and fit a relay controlled by a switch inside the car. The exhaust flaps are controlled by individual solenoids. These are fed with 12v separately from the rear fuse box. The solenoids are operated independently by the ECU for each engine bank, which provides an earth through pin 18 to close the flap. I disconnected the solenoid wires from the ECUs, connected them together and they now provide an earth via the relay.
The 12v for the relay is spliced from the ignition supply to one of the ECUs (pin 21, purple and black). The pin 18 wires from the ECUs are joined together and provide the actuating earth for the relay, but via the switch in the car.
If the switch is off ... no earth ... the flaps stay open.
If the switch is on, the ECUs operate the flaps as normal. (this is not strictly correct as the flaps will only close when both ECUs send the same closing signal, but this will avoid having one bank running against a flap and the other free breathing - which is the standard setup).
There are some pictures here:
https://onedrive.live.com/?id=DEA73F...A73F069A8E3159
Attacking the dash panel with a 16mm drill was a bit of a worry but worked out well.
The wire into the car for the switch runs through the grommet for the bonnet cable - much easier than I expected.
The engine ECU plugs are easy enough to get to and the wiring is as per the workshop manual, so easy enough to follow.
The eagle eyed among you will have noticed a pair of small speakers under the dash top grill. I fitted these for an IO talk bluetooth kit, which sits under the infotainment box. The remote control for it is fitted in the ash tray - works pretty well. The speakers came out of one of those little music angel portable speaker things. I only fitted them as a temporary measure, intending to source something better later, but they work so well, they can stay. The whole bluetooth kit is invisible if the lid is closed on the ashtray.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...8E3159%2156483
Essentially, what I did was tap into the looms for the engine ECUs and fit a relay controlled by a switch inside the car. The exhaust flaps are controlled by individual solenoids. These are fed with 12v separately from the rear fuse box. The solenoids are operated independently by the ECU for each engine bank, which provides an earth through pin 18 to close the flap. I disconnected the solenoid wires from the ECUs, connected them together and they now provide an earth via the relay.
The 12v for the relay is spliced from the ignition supply to one of the ECUs (pin 21, purple and black). The pin 18 wires from the ECUs are joined together and provide the actuating earth for the relay, but via the switch in the car.
If the switch is off ... no earth ... the flaps stay open.
If the switch is on, the ECUs operate the flaps as normal. (this is not strictly correct as the flaps will only close when both ECUs send the same closing signal, but this will avoid having one bank running against a flap and the other free breathing - which is the standard setup).
There are some pictures here:
https://onedrive.live.com/?id=DEA73F...A73F069A8E3159
Attacking the dash panel with a 16mm drill was a bit of a worry but worked out well.
The wire into the car for the switch runs through the grommet for the bonnet cable - much easier than I expected.
The engine ECU plugs are easy enough to get to and the wiring is as per the workshop manual, so easy enough to follow.
The eagle eyed among you will have noticed a pair of small speakers under the dash top grill. I fitted these for an IO talk bluetooth kit, which sits under the infotainment box. The remote control for it is fitted in the ash tray - works pretty well. The speakers came out of one of those little music angel portable speaker things. I only fitted them as a temporary measure, intending to source something better later, but they work so well, they can stay. The whole bluetooth kit is invisible if the lid is closed on the ashtray.
Last edited by Stevieshutts; 03-19-2016 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Pictures added
#144
03-21-2016, 01:35 PM
Hi I have a Bentley gt 2006 and it has a failed n/s front suspension strut
Are the vw phaeton parts the same or do I need Bentley original
The part numbers are very similar and they look almost identical
Help ,,,!!!
Are the vw phaeton parts the same or do I need Bentley original
The part numbers are very similar and they look almost identical
Help ,,,!!!
#145
03-21-2016, 02:50 PM
Am not sure yet many have purchased Arnott shocks. They'll also pay you for your old shocks PLUS you get a lifetime warranty for under $900 each.
https://www.arnottindustries.com/abo...nental-gt.html
https://www.arnottindustries.com/abo...nental-gt.html
Last edited by stevenrmusic; 03-21-2016 at 03:55 PM.
#146
03-22-2016, 10:33 AM
Bentley gt strut same as the phaeton?..????
We're thinking of changing the suspension as n/s has failed
Do they fit or should I just bite the bullet,
Almost the same part codes and they look almost the same
Appreciate some advice guys if anyone has tried this
Thanks for your time
Do they fit or should I just bite the bullet,
Almost the same part codes and they look almost the same
Appreciate some advice guys if anyone has tried this
Thanks for your time
#147
03-26-2016, 06:53 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Portsmouth
Age: 61
Posts: 36
Rep Power: 11
Anyone know how I can stop my spoiler operating automatically at 70mph (it's like a flag which says 'come and get me I'm speeding'). I still want to be able to operate the spoiler manually, but I want to disconnect the automatic deployment, or at least move it to a higher speed. The car is a 2004.
I looked through the electrical data and discovered there's a speed sensing wire to the ABS module, so I tried cutting that where it goes into the spoiler ECU (black & white wire in pin 9), but it still puts the spoiler up at 70, but then also disables manual control and leaves the spoiler in the up position. I recovered from that and put it all back to normal, but surely this should be possible somehow.
Any help would be most gratefully received.
I looked through the electrical data and discovered there's a speed sensing wire to the ABS module, so I tried cutting that where it goes into the spoiler ECU (black & white wire in pin 9), but it still puts the spoiler up at 70, but then also disables manual control and leaves the spoiler in the up position. I recovered from that and put it all back to normal, but surely this should be possible somehow.
Any help would be most gratefully received.
#148
03-27-2016, 07:41 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Thornhill, Ontario CANADA
Posts: 539
Rep Power: 47 
Anyone know how I can stop my spoiler operating automatically at 70mph (it's like a flag which says 'come and get me I'm speeding'). I still want to be able to operate the spoiler manually, but I want to disconnect the automatic deployment, or at least move it to a higher speed. The car is a 2004.
I looked through the electrical data and discovered there's a speed sensing wire to the ABS module, so I tried cutting that where it goes into the spoiler ECU (black & white wire in pin 9), but it still puts the spoiler up at 70, but then also disables manual control and leaves the spoiler in the up position. I recovered from that and put it all back to normal, but surely this should be possible somehow.
Any help would be most gratefully received.
I looked through the electrical data and discovered there's a speed sensing wire to the ABS module, so I tried cutting that where it goes into the spoiler ECU (black & white wire in pin 9), but it still puts the spoiler up at 70, but then also disables manual control and leaves the spoiler in the up position. I recovered from that and put it all back to normal, but surely this should be possible somehow.
Any help would be most gratefully received.
#149
04-15-2016, 05:07 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Portsmouth
Age: 61
Posts: 36
Rep Power: 11
Looked everywhere for the aerofoil speed signal programming - all to no avail. In the end, I found 2 speed signals feeding the aerofoil control unit. Pins 7 & 9. I cut the wires to see what happened, and the aerofoil still worked manually, but didn't pop up at 70mph - Bingo!! I fitted 2 relays in the boot (trunk) lid, one for each of the speed feed wires, took an ignition feed off pin 8 to power the relays, and then ran a cable right through the car to the dash, where I fitted a push button switch next to the light switch panel. The button connects to earth to operate the relays.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...nt=photo%2cjpg
When the button is in (on), the relays power up with the ignition and connect the speed signal wires as normal. The aerofoil deploys at 70mph.
When the button is out (off), the speed signals are disconnected and the aerofoil stays parked regardless of the speed.
The only anomaly I found is that if the aerofoil is raised manually (with the fitted switches in the centre console) when the speed signal button is out, the aerofoil ECU still sees the car as stationary and flashes the aerofoil light on the display (presumably as a reminder to lower it while the car is stopped). This doesn't bother me, I just put the speed signals back on (press the relay button) and it stops. If I am operating the aerofoil manually, why would I be concerned about automatic deployment at 70mph.
The hardest part of the job was running the wire through the car - especially fiddly through the rubber gaiters between the boot lid and the body. The cable runs through the right rear wing, under the back seat squab, into the centre console, under the infotainment system and behind the right side fuse panel to the steering column. Nothing visible and works a treat!
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...nt=photo%2cjpg
When the button is in (on), the relays power up with the ignition and connect the speed signal wires as normal. The aerofoil deploys at 70mph.
When the button is out (off), the speed signals are disconnected and the aerofoil stays parked regardless of the speed.
The only anomaly I found is that if the aerofoil is raised manually (with the fitted switches in the centre console) when the speed signal button is out, the aerofoil ECU still sees the car as stationary and flashes the aerofoil light on the display (presumably as a reminder to lower it while the car is stopped). This doesn't bother me, I just put the speed signals back on (press the relay button) and it stops. If I am operating the aerofoil manually, why would I be concerned about automatic deployment at 70mph.
The hardest part of the job was running the wire through the car - especially fiddly through the rubber gaiters between the boot lid and the body. The cable runs through the right rear wing, under the back seat squab, into the centre console, under the infotainment system and behind the right side fuse panel to the steering column. Nothing visible and works a treat!
