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...Amen...after many hours (because I was being very cautious) I gave the plastic electric junction box attached to the positive post a little nudge and twist...it came loose and I was able to take it off the main battery. Next challenge...find the secret to unplugging the 2 red wire (plug) connected to the top right location of the plastic junction box...then on to finding the battery hold down clamp or clamps that are not seen... I am sure that a mechanic who has done this before, could get to this point in the procedure in 15 minutes...Johnny...who was nice enough to respond...where do I find the tie down clamps...thanks all...hope my experience in describing my difficulty helps...JimB
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by jim2331
(Post 4599575)
...Amen...after many hours (because I was being very cautious) I gave the plastic electric junction box attached to the positive post a little nudge and twist...it came loose and I was able to take it off the main battery. Next challenge...find the secret to unplugging the 2 red wire (plug) connected to the top right location of the plastic junction box...then on to finding the battery hold down clamp or clamps that are not seen... I am sure that a mechanic who has done this before, could get to this point in the procedure in 15 minutes...Johnny...who was nice enough to respond...where do I find the tie down clamps...thanks all...hope my experience in describing my difficulty helps...JimB
The battery hold down is as shown in my previous picture, I have taken that picture and circled the hold down bolt in red, and the hold down rod in yellow, being that you are working on the main left hand battery, the hold down rod will be toward the front of the vehicle, so on the backseat side of the battery, not the taillight side, as far as the unplugging of the red wire, you push in the plug, while pushing in, you push down the tab on the top of said plug and pull out toward yourself. |
3 Attachment(s)
Pics of plug tab/clip.
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....Johnny...you are a life saver...many thanks from this 85 year old, crazy enough to still tackle a challenge...I will be down in garage in little bit to try and disconnect the plug and more importantly the tie down clamp...(getting a cherry picker to lift it out will be a story in itself) ... thanks again....JimB
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...at risk of being thought of as total incompetent, I have worked on my cars all my life...this is without doubt the toughest battery change I have ever experienced but I am glad to do it just to see if I can....in order to pull the battery it is necessary to get the black electric junction panel out of the way...to get it out of way you have to disconnect the "quick" release plug....Johnny has been so helpful with the exact picture...except mine does not seem to have any give at all...after working on it for 30 minutes, thought I would give it a rest before I cut the damn 2 wires....JimB
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Originally Posted by jim2331
(Post 4599635)
to get it out of way you have to disconnect the "quick" release plug....Johnny has been so helpful with the exact picture...except mine does not seem to have any give at all...after working on it for 30 minutes, thought I would give it a rest before I cut the damn 2 wires....JimB
Be sure to push it in good before pressing down on the black tab and pull out, I myself forget to push it first sometimes, if you don't it will never let the clip off of its lock so to speak. |
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....Hello Johnny...thanks to you and your excellent instruction I got it...the plug is unclipped and I have the L shaped electric junction panel here on my table. It truly looks like a great and substantial piece of engineering, just as you expect from Crew Bentley...later I'll give it a go to get at the battery hold down clip and let you know how it goes...do you have any suggestions on where to get a replacement battery...I looked on line and the Varta 95Ah 850En made in Germany is out of stock, not available...thanks again...JimB
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Originally Posted by jim2331
(Post 4599660)
....Hello Johnny...thanks to you and your excellent instruction I got it...the plug is unclipped and I have the L shaped electric junction panel here on my table. It truly looks like a great and substantial piece of engineering, just as you expect from Crew Bentley...later I'll give it a go to get at the battery hold down clip and let you know how it goes...do you have any suggestions on where to get a replacement battery...I looked on line and the Varta 95Ah 850En made in Germany is out of stock, not available...thanks again...JimB
Jim give me a call 908-507-6357, I am available now, Johnny. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...000%7CL3*15597 |
....Inaugaration Day...3am our time...Jan 20 2017...Hello Johnny...My car is 2010 Speed...
Trying to r/r the Main battery (left side) has been a good learning experience. All wires and cables are tied off and the space is clear, the battery is loose...I have determined it is not possible to remove the battery without removing the large fuse/relay panel mounted above the battery. I am not prepared to do that. There is just not enough clearance to lift the battery up out of the well. Perhaps earlier models of the Cont. series are different. I would like to hear from some folks out there who have done this job....I hate to give up on a project, but you can't win em all...JimB |
4 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by jim2331
(Post 4599770)
....Inaugaration Day...3am our time...Jan 20 2017...Hello Johnny...My car is 2010 Speed...
Trying to r/r the Main battery (left side) has been a good learning experience. All wires and cables are tied off and the space is clear, the battery is loose...I have determined it is not possible to remove the battery without removing the large fuse/relay panel mounted above the battery. I am not prepared to do that. There is just not enough clearance to lift the battery up out of the well. Perhaps earlier models of the Cont. series are different. I would like to hear from some folks out there who have done this job....I hate to give up on a project, but you can't win em all...JimB Post some pics if you can, or send them to my cell, my main battery sits 2-1/2 inches in the well, but has 4 inches clearance from top of battery to the bottom of the fuse panel, so that leaves me 1-1/2 inches of clearance to lift out, it is tight, so you can remove the three T-20 torx screws holding the fuse panel in it's box, then pull the fuse panel out of the box and swing toward the front on the vehicle, next remove the three 10 or 11 mm nuts as shown in picture to remove the fuse panel box completely out of your way, 2 nuts up top as shown, and 1 nut to the right of the fuse panel as shown in the picture with torx screw. Note: the three torx screws are short, 3/4 of an inch, so don't drop them like I just did..... :) time for the magnet.... got it ! all back together. . |
....damit Johnny, just when I think I'm out, you pull me back in...OK since our new President is making everything great again...I'll give it another try....Off with the fuse/relay panel...
another question....do you know what the relay in picture #432 controls...the reason I ask is that mine show a little anomaly right in the center of the number 3...in your picture you have the same anomaly...just curious JimB Oh, how do I find your project on the Site...what is the title... |
1 Attachment(s)
Reply in RED....
Originally Posted by jim2331
(Post 4600011)
....damit Johnny, just when I think I'm out, you pull me back in.. Spoken like a true Jersey Boy.... ;)
.OK since our new President is making everything great again...I'll give it another try....Off with the fuse/relay panel... It' a beautiful day !!! another question....do you know what the relay in picture #432 controls...the reason I ask is that mine show a little anomaly right in the center of the number 3...in your picture you have the same anomaly...just curious JimB . Relay with #432 on it is relay #49 and is the Battery management relay #2. see attachment below and see pages 1-21 and 1-23 for relay layout, it may differ for your year, but I don't think so. Oh, how do I find your project on the Site...what is the title.. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pictures.html Click this ^^^^^^^^^^^^ |
.....Johnny....got the relay/fuse panel....got the one nut under the box....stood on my head in trunk for half hour trying to find the other 2...where are those suckers....JimB
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Saturday January 21 2017 4:30am
...time was I could work at these little projects all nite...that was then this is now...for those out there going to try to r/r the left Main battery...on my 2010 Speed, you must detach the fuse/relay panel and box mounted above battery...unless you can levitate the 60 pound battery...a little added challenge is trying to get this done working half in dark, with no electric in a 100 car garage, with half of your tools...all good...could not possible get done without Johnny's excellent assistance...OK back to finding last 2 bolts holding box...JimB |
Sat Jan 21 2017....wow...finally see the 2 bolts that apparently hold the black plastic fuse/relay box...will get to them later...this battery thing is a real character builder...
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....Johnny...the last time I saw the 2 nuts you spoke of...I am working with a flashlight and a mirror....an hour ago I clearly saw them...now again having difficulty finding them...can you give me a frame of reference as to location...ie...relative to the black plastic box or the one nut on bracket that is easy...
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....this is definitely a learning process...I have spent at least 2 hours trying to find the 2 nuts that secure the black plastic box that holds the fuses/relays (there is total of 3 10mm nuts. The reason it took me so long is I was looking for the 2 in the wrong area. I was looking for the nuts behind the box, they are actually in front of box at top. All 3 are now out. Still the box will not come out. The box is held in by a plastic anchor that secures the wire loom going into taillight area...Johnny...what is best method of releasing the wire anchor...JimB
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In no way do I regret taking on this challenge r/r the main battery on my 2010 Speed....but I have a frustration level of about one (1) hour. I got my 1 hour dose today.
The new battery is in place. Next putting in the black plastic fuse/relay inclosure. That box comes in two parts. The box and the aluminum mounting bracket. The two pieces snap together with 3 slide latches on the back and one on each side. There are two protruding bolts on rear of the aluminum bracket that are attach points for wire harness anchor points. I have tried remounting the assembly as one piece and the bracket first and then snapping in the box....both ways are fighting me....try again later...any suggestion are appreciated...JimB |
....to share my experience in r/r the main (left) battery. As previously said, on my 2010 Speed you must remove the fuse/relay black box to get clearance to r/r battery. Getting it back on (box) is a challenge. Just got it done (after a few trys and losing one of the 3 ten mm nuts) I tried both ways. Mounting the bracket only then adding box was no go. What did work was mounting box on alum bracket and installing. Getting the 2 10mm threaded bolts to seat in their proper place a challenge but finally got done.
Doing this the first time is trial and error. I would be much easier next time. JimB |
....made bush league mistake...so focused on getting the black plastic fuse/relay box reinstalled did not notice the fuse panel will not clear with box installed...so out with box again, install panel and reinstall box...live and learn...JimB
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....Johnny....help needed....what is right sequence for removing fuse panel, black box and aluminum mount bracket for black box...
....the new main battery is in....I mounted the alum bracket and box...great...but you can't put fuse panel in box with box already mounted....that raises another question....if the inside rim of trunk (black plastic frame running around trunk) was removed, all of this would be much easier. I am not suggesting doing it, just asking. That moulding is what is in way of putting fuse panel in plastic box installed. I am just making observation that without molding in way this whole job would go quicker. You are the expert...what do you say... 10Speed JimB |
Saturday Feb 11 2017 5:45am
For any out there trying to change your own Main battery (left) if this 85 year old over the hill guy can do it...you can. I was only able to get it done with Johnny's great help and encouragement....what I was always curious about was since Bentley put the Main Bat in such a difficult place to work on...how do they originally install it... By accident I found the answer...easy for them The car is half way up on a lift...the body of car is incomplete...a fellow is under car sticking up head and shoulders up through the area where the spare tire well (not yet installed) should be....nicely installing said battery like a piece of cake....easy for him... JimB |
This why I really like this forum. Ppl here has given me the courage and knowledge to tackle this battery replacement on my own. Not once have I read that after replacing that they or the car needs to be programmed. But the Audi dealership wants to charge me $499 to replace them both AND some type of programming. I have had them both on CTEK 7002 tenders. If in acc mode too long (10/15mins) my battery light comes on. Even running the Ross-Tech is too long and I think that’s why I get most of my error codes, because of the batteries. Plus this will give me a chance to figure out why that battery relay thing is not mounted right and won’t let me close the cover.
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Old problem new wrinkle / nyc garage doesn’t allow trickle charge
hello again all. Good to be back. Recall I’m the guy lives nyc and my public garage does not allow use of chargers. Well. I found one spot in the garage where their maintenance team had rigged an extension cable from a roof connector, I’m able to charge it overnight about every two weeks and all was wel... till.. it stopped working. I think one of the garage maintenance guys messed with the rigged extension and now, when I test the connection with a standard 115v reading light the light flashes. So I guess there is power still there but a wrongly connected wire. Im capable but reluctant to fiddle with the live electrics. While I can flip the ignition key and start the car using the right hand battery my primary concern is I believe using the alternator to constantly be recharging a low charge battery will eventually burn out the alternator which is an engine out job... hence the concern. My options are 1) fiddle with building live outlet electrics- rather not 2) drive car say every 2 weeks for enough miles (how many ?) to recharge from 2 weeks with car sat idle. 3) idle engine without driving . How many hours ? What revs ? 4) disconnect one or both batteries while Car not in use this might be an option ( one issue might be if I disconnect batteries then it’s hard to access trunk so maybe need to build cable extensions from battery to ski opening on back seat so I can connect / disconnect batteries from back seat without accessing trunk . Also , if I disconnect main but keep starter battery live can I still flip ignition key to share batteries and start ? Maybe im being too paranoid , maybe the alternator can handle say 2 or 3 weeks of Car sat idle then use alternator to charge ? But maybe it can’t and I’ll end up with engine out. ( current mileage 27k) I’d welcome any guidance on the above |
Originally Posted by Johnny Hotspur GT
(Post 4547144)
Emergency manual access lever is behind right rear seat.
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Not a difficult project. Search online: "Remove rear seat Bentley Continental". There is a YouTube video by Luke at Alpine Performance.
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Originally Posted by ContinentalGT05
(Post 4727737)
hello again all. Good to be back. Recall I’m the guy lives nyc and my public garage does not allow use of chargers. Well. I found one spot in the garage where their maintenance team had rigged an extension cable from a roof connector, I’m able to charge it overnight about every two weeks and all was wel... till.. it stopped working. I think one of the garage maintenance guys messed with the rigged extension and now, when I test the connection with a standard 115v reading light the light flashes. So I guess there is power still there but a wrongly connected wire. Im capable but reluctant to fiddle with the live electrics. While I can flip the ignition key and start the car using the right hand battery my primary concern is I believe using the alternator to constantly be recharging a low charge battery will eventually burn out the alternator which is an engine out job... hence the concern. My options are 1) fiddle with building live outlet electrics- rather not 2) drive car say every 2 weeks for enough miles (how many ?) to recharge from 2 weeks with car sat idle. 3) idle engine without driving . How many hours ? What revs ? 4) disconnect one or both batteries while Car not in use this might be an option ( one issue might be if I disconnect batteries then it’s hard to access trunk so maybe need to build cable extensions from battery to ski opening on back seat so I can connect / disconnect batteries from back seat without accessing trunk . Also , if I disconnect main but keep starter battery live can I still flip ignition key to share batteries and start ? Maybe im being too paranoid , maybe the alternator can handle say 2 or 3 weeks of Car sat idle then use alternator to charge ? But maybe it can’t and I’ll end up with engine out. ( current mileage 27k) I’d welcome any guidance on the above https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-5W-12V-...YAAOSw-olaISo1 I often have to leave my car in a marina car park for a few weeks at a time . Ok daylight bright sun but it’s better than nothing ,seems to have worked . |
Good morning... ive been all around the site but have not seen an answer for my particular situation. I have a 2010 GTC Speed. I am taking it to Florida where it will sit in the secure underground garage at my condo for 4 to 5 weeks between visits. There is no way to hook up the battery tender, so what is the best option? I’m now kind of regretting my decision buying this car. Can I turn off any of the devices that drain the battery? Alarm? Thanks for any help or suggestions. |
Originally Posted by gregwarner
(Post 4758435)
Good morning... ive been all around the site but have not seen an answer for my particular situation. I have a 2010 GTC Speed. I am taking it to Florida where it will sit in the secure underground garage at my condo for 4 to 5 weeks between visits. There is no way to hook up the battery tender, so what is the best option? I’m now kind of regretting my decision buying this car. Can I turn off any of the devices that drain the battery? Alarm? Thanks for any help or suggestions. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...0fe149e8c1.jpg |
Replaced batteries in our 2007 Bentley GTC and am still having issues
I replaced both batteries in our 2007 Bentley GTC and am still having issues. It will start right up and drive perfectly but sometimes, after just driving it, it will fail to start.
It happened again last night after driving 20 miles to an event and than home again 3 hours latter. It started right up for our drive home. We stopped at a gas station a mile from our home after exiting the freeway. After shutting down the car to ad fuel, It wouldn't start. I jump started the car, connecting to the back up battery, thanks to a good samaritan. It started right up and we drove it home only a few blocks away. Shut it down in the garage and tried to start it again, and it started right up! I am thinking my problem might be the starter system and not the batteries? Can anyone help me figure this beast out? It did dim the interior dash and groan before starting after we got home, like there is a major drain.... It started right up again this morning. Any ideas would be helpful. We love driving this car but am getting sacred to take it out ..... |
Originally Posted by bchichi
(Post 4770845)
I replaced both batteries in our 2007 Bentley GTC and am still having issues. It will start right up and drive perfectly but sometimes, after just driving it, it will fail to start.
It happened again last night after driving 20 miles to an event and than home again 3 hours latter. It started right up for our drive home. We stopped at a gas station a mile from our home after exiting the freeway. After shutting down the car to ad fuel, It wouldn't start. I jump started the car, connecting to the back up battery, thanks to a good samaritan. It started right up and we drove it home only a few blocks away. Shut it down in the garage and tried to start it again, and it started right up! I am thinking my problem might be the starter system and not the batteries? Can anyone help me figure this beast out? It did dim the interior dash and groan before starting after we got home, like there is a major drain.... It started right up again this morning. Any ideas would be helpful. We love driving this car but am getting sacred to take it out ..... |
Hello Bchichi,
When did you replace the batteries, how long does the vehicle sit between uses, do you have a battery tender hooked up, also just note, you do not have a "backup battery", the left hand battery is the house battery, and the right side battery is the starter battery, also when jump starting you should follow the instructions in your manual, you do NOT hookup the cables to just one battery as per Bentley instructions, and before you would ever think of using an other vehicle to jumpstart your car, you would use the emergency start procedure by turning the key in the ignition to the left the engage the battery parallel switch that ties both batteries together allowing a startup if just one of the batteries is low.
Originally Posted by bchichi
(Post 4770845)
I replaced both batteries in our 2007 Bentley GTC and am still having issues. It will start right up and drive perfectly but sometimes, after just driving it, it will fail to start.
It happened again last night after driving 20 miles to an event and than home again 3 hours latter. It started right up for our drive home. We stopped at a gas station a mile from our home after exiting the freeway. After shutting down the car to ad fuel, It wouldn't start. I jump started the car, connecting to the back up battery, thanks to a good samaritan. It started right up and we drove it home only a few blocks away. Shut it down in the garage and tried to start it again, and it started right up! I am thinking my problem might be the starter system and not the batteries? Can anyone help me figure this beast out? It did dim the interior dash and groan before starting after we got home, like there is a major drain.... It started right up again this morning. Any ideas would be helpful. We love driving this car but am getting sacred to take it out ..... |
Originally Posted by Samhain
(Post 4770867)
Do the 2007 Continentals have that trick where on not starting, you can twist the key the opposite way, then back regular way to crank to use both batteries to start the car? ..
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Yes Samhain, it has that feature but that did not work this time, or last time.
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Hello Johnny,
I replaced both batteries 3 weeks ago and the car sits for two weeks at a time. I did hook up on both batteries a special fast connect harness to use my Battery Saver /tender chargers with a built in computer to pultz-charge them and it does also diagnose them when connected. But haven't use it since I install the new batteries 3 weeks ago because it started right up the last few time I drove it, like yesterday, when we took it to the show. When it wouldn't start last night, I did try turning the key to the left and back to the right to switch over batteries but it still didn't start up. It seem to drag but didn't have enough to start the car. I do understand about what each batteries does so excuse me for calling the starter battery (on the right side) the back-up. |
I'm not there so here's my suggestion. First make sure that all the terminals & clamps are squeaky clean, that means no corrosion . Make sure none of the clamps are loose.
Next if this doesn't solve the problem, have a competent shop check the alternator output function. From 2000 miles away sounds like the charging system isn't functioning right or something is loose or corroded. This is the first step & hopefully the last if it fixes the problem. |
Thank you 1eappebaum I will do the checks you suggest and see if I missed anything.
Thanks for your input. I got my fingers crossed. Chichi |
I've heard of people having intermittent starting issues as a result of a fault in the immobilizer (anti-theft) module. I don't know much about it except that this might cause the same symptom.
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Originally Posted by Samhain
(Post 4770927)
I've heard of people having intermittent starting issues as a result of a fault in the immobilizer (anti-theft) module. I don't know much about it except that this might cause the same symptom.
I would take a voltage reading of each battery first, they should be between 12.7 and 13.2 volts fully charged, or take the vehicle to where you purchased the batteries and have them tested for voltage and load, it could be that the batteries where sitting on the shelve for a while and were not fully charged, and the short drives and no tender did not help, just had it happen to me with the A8L W12, put it in the car and was only good for 2 starts, it was on the shelve 6 months plus, I went right back and got one less then 20 days old. |
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