2007 Bentley Continental GT Air Suspension Failure
#18
01-08-2019, 07:39 AM
I’m replacing my fronts today. Got mine next day from Amazon. Everything I’ve read makes the swap seem straight forward. I do have rhe Ross tech VCDS if I need to set levels. Is it really necessary to get the car aligned after? Doesn’t seem like there is anything that will be altered to affect that? Any other tips or traps to watch out for? Oh, and I’m going to send my old shocks in to be rebuilt... keep in stock for next time.
#19
01-08-2019, 08:07 AM
I’m replacing my fronts today. Got mine next day from Amazon. Everything I’ve read makes the swap seem straight forward. I do have rhe Ross tech VCDS if I need to set levels. Is it really necessary to get the car aligned after? Doesn’t seem like there is anything that will be altered to affect that? Any other tips or traps to watch out for? Oh, and I’m going to send my old shocks in to be rebuilt... keep in stock for next time.
Who are are you sending your original struts to? Are they rebuilding the entire thing or just certain parts? And what are they charging? I’m looking to redoing mines in about two weeks while she’s put up for the winter.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by TeamJones1962; 01-08-2019 at 08:43 AM.
#20
01-08-2019, 08:24 AM
Anytime you mess with suspension parts it’s good to get an alignment done. Once you get done drive it to see how she does.
Who are are you sending your original struts to? Are they rebuilding the entire thing or just certain parts? And what are they charging? I’m looking to redoing mines in about two weeks while she’s put up for the winter.
Tganks in advance.
#21
01-08-2019, 08:46 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Farmington WA
Age: 68
Posts: 138
Rep Power: 0 
It's been since last spring when I replaced my GTC's front shocks, and my memory is what it is (let's say "selective"). I did the job in my driveway with basic tools and a floor jack... it was pretty straight-forward, but as I recall:
1) Removing and replacing wasn't as straight-forward as I was lead to believe/shown on a youtube video. Getting the bottom of the shock out over the connecting suspension arm required additionally disconnecting the front sway bar, to allow the suspension to drop down far enough to remove/replace the shock... and then getting the sway bar reattached required some fussing around.
2) Check for leaks before reassembling "everything". I bought cheap rebuilt shocks... two out of two leaked... which, I'll leave the story at that except: The first leaker I discovered after I had everything reinstalled: specifically the inner fender and wheel. That first shock leaked so profusely that corner would only pump-up about 1/2". The seller wanted a video of the leak, which then involved removing the wheel... setting that corner's suspension down on a block of wood so it would activate, and then video the soap bubble test.
Also: When the car's dropped fully down due to flat air shock(s), I found to drive the car up on 2 x 6 blocks of wood to get the vehicle up enough to get my floor jack under the appropriate jack point (if you don't have access to a two post lift).
1) Removing and replacing wasn't as straight-forward as I was lead to believe/shown on a youtube video. Getting the bottom of the shock out over the connecting suspension arm required additionally disconnecting the front sway bar, to allow the suspension to drop down far enough to remove/replace the shock... and then getting the sway bar reattached required some fussing around.
2) Check for leaks before reassembling "everything". I bought cheap rebuilt shocks... two out of two leaked... which, I'll leave the story at that except: The first leaker I discovered after I had everything reinstalled: specifically the inner fender and wheel. That first shock leaked so profusely that corner would only pump-up about 1/2". The seller wanted a video of the leak, which then involved removing the wheel... setting that corner's suspension down on a block of wood so it would activate, and then video the soap bubble test.
Also: When the car's dropped fully down due to flat air shock(s), I found to drive the car up on 2 x 6 blocks of wood to get the vehicle up enough to get my floor jack under the appropriate jack point (if you don't have access to a two post lift).
Last edited by W. M. Hellinger; 01-08-2019 at 08:59 AM. Reason: typo
#22
02-20-2019, 05:47 PM
Don’t mean to hijack the thread...
But I didn’t want to start a whole new one for the same topic. But for all that has done this in their own garage, what size are the star sockets to remove the strut on top? I finally convinced myself I could do this and need to know what tools and sizes I need.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#23
02-20-2019, 06:04 PM
But I didn’t want to start a whole new one for the same topic. But for all that has done this in their own garage, what size are the star sockets to remove the strut on top? I finally convinced myself I could do this and need to know what tools and sizes I need.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#25
03-14-2019, 05:41 PM
I’m replacing my fronts today. Got mine next day from Amazon. Everything I’ve read makes the swap seem straight forward. I do have rhe Ross tech VCDS if I need to set levels. Is it really necessary to get the car aligned after? Doesn’t seem like there is anything that will be altered to affect that? Any other tips or traps to watch out for? Oh, and I’m going to send my old shocks in to be rebuilt... keep in stock for next time.
#26
03-15-2019, 06:29 PM
I have an 05. Developed slow leak (just lowering over the tires) was ok for a while, when started in the morning, aired up nice and seems to ride ok, but after few more months right side began sagging lover then the rim lip. When starting in the morning, “car is too low” sensors were going off and it took a while (about 3 min) for car to air up and level. Bought a strut set from amazon for about $700 each ( it was about a year ago and don’t remember exactly) and paid about $400 to my independent to replace them. When compared two, looked the same but had few differences, like some clips weren’t there, and connections had different angles, but fit pretty well and with some wire ties, lack of clips was overcome. About 6 months later right strut developed a leak, and few months later both struts developed a rattling noise every time I hit a bump. I’m currently looking for a replacement set, gonna stay away from Chinese reproductions, but don’t want to pay $1800 each dealer price. Please anyone any ideas??!
#27
03-22-2019, 06:08 PM
2006 GT Front drops, does not always air up
I have a 2006 Bentley Continental GT, both front struts were replaced a few months ago, one side from Arnott and the other side a cheaper one. Then the cheaper one was leaking so I replaced it with another one from Arnott. After 3 to 5 days of sitting the front end still drops. 3 weeks ago I replaced the main battery and haven't touched the car since. When going back to it today I let it run for an hour and it did not air back up. I rolled the car back and forth a couple feet and it did lift to the low height, but would still not allow me to adjust ride height. I pulled it into the shop, shut down and restarted the car a couple times, put it in and out of Jack mode a couple times, then it aired up quickly. I have soap tested the struts and valve block and accessible line with no sign of a leak. I'm.wondering if there could be a stuck, frozen or otherwise bad valve in the block at the compressor? Once it drops a fault gets stored that locks out ride height adjustment, and the fault is cleared by a few ignition cycles? I dont have a way to retrieve.any fault codes.
#29
03-26-2019, 07:59 PM
I actually just finished it yesterday(still working 7 days, swing shift) and I’m now trying to see how to air them up. I only have a floor jack and jack stands and the stands won’t let me put the front two tires semi on the floor. Thought about jacking it up and sliding some wood under there. I do have the Ross-tech software but have NO CLUE as to using it to add air into the struts. If any one can help I would gladly appreciate it.
#30
09-03-2019, 03:48 PM
Did you ever get this sorted out? I've got two re-manufactured units coming from RMT for my father's 2013 Flying Spur Speed and was curious about the need to do anything with the air/leveling after install as some have mentioned. I assumed I would need to buy the Ross-Tech software but there don't seem to be any instructions floating around. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Brian
-Brian