Subwoofer question
 

So I'm planning to do a basic subwoofer install. My question is has anyone done this I don't know where to take the audio signal feed. I'm guessing I'll have to use a Hi-Lo converter but does anyone have a wiring diagram for the amp?

Thanks in advance

I just bought my 2010 continental GT ... took it to a speed shop here that is top notch, they even won first place at SEMA a few times. I asked the same question. Apparently our sound systems don't use regular wires. They use fiber optic lines. So it's not as simple as one might think.

Mine definitely uses copper wires it's old tech and I don't have the upgraded sound system

Let me try to help you out before you get flamed for not using the search function :D
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...io-wiring.html

I just gutted my headunit. I couldn't go without my bluetooth or Sirius radio. No sub but now I have a clean option to add one just for a little more bottom end. Changing the head unit made me realize I HAVE TO upgrade my speakers.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...6eff3c6de5.jpg

Also, if you can't get the diagrams you need, most speaker wires at the amp are twisted together. Get yourself a 9v battery, solder wires to each post (I would make them kind of long) strip the other end down to maybe 1/4 inches. Make sure the wires can reach and make contact with the terminals and test for speakers. You should hear a "POP" when making contact with a speaker. Write down which pair of wires corresponds with what speaker. That's what I had to use back when I was installing and Tech-Soft didn't have the car in its data base yet. Other may chime in with a better way but that's off the top of my head.

I am sorry to say, but whom ever told you that has no clue what they were talking about, the only fiber optic to do with the Infotainment sound system along with the NAV, is the fiber optic cable between the infotainment head and the NAV disc drive, all other wiring from the CD player, NAV drive, to amp and from amp to speaker is copper wiring, not fiber optics, I just installed a 2010 Naim infotainment head unit in my 2005 GT which is part 2005, 2006, 2007, 2010, 2014, (See my rebuild thread) and it is as I have stated above, I will dig out the wiring diagram for the sound system in a few. ALSO as TeamJones pointed out with the battery trick, I will only add that I use a "AA" 1.5 volt just to be safe.

Those drawings look like what I need so thanks for the link, they won't load on my phone but I'll log on later and check them out.

I won't be using that aftermarket head unit adapter because IMO it looks cheap and nasty.

Thanks for the advice I'll try that if the diagrams won't load

See? This is why I joined this forum. Even high end speed shops sometimes don't know what they are talking about lol.

Hello Forster,


Click on screen shots to enlarge, these are for 2004 GT RHD, one diagram is for vehicle VIN # prior to 20300, the other is from VIN # 20300, the third is the infotainment wiring diagram.


Johnny

Johnny thanks a bunch! That's exactly what I need ! Sorry to be a pain though when I zoom into the screenshots the pin number are illegible.

Can you please just note down what the pin numbers are for bass speaker - rear left? Should both be on X0841 by the look of it

Thanks!!!

Looks like 6 & 3 for the rear left bass, and 1 & 22 for the rear right bass.

Thanks for that I'm going to go with rear left so I can stick to one plug, rear right spans both connectors. I'm just hoping it doesn't make the amp sense an error with a speaker, as I know it can send error reports to Vag com.

So as part of the audio upgrade I want the sound to be crisp currently I have some distortion I've isolated this to the a pillar tweeters anyone changed these? With them being airbag A pillars I'm cautious

Hello Forster,
Yes I have had them out on both vehicles :D (see my rebuild thread), just gently pry out the "AIRBAG" cover to expose the 1 screw securing the A-Pillar trim, the tweeter is attached to said trim piece, there is also a push in retainer stud that will require a little pulling out force as can be seen in the pictures, the retainer tab at the bottom holds the bottom in place, the AIRBAG does run all the way down the A-Pillar, but dose not interfere with the removing of the trim/tweeter.
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There are actually 2 push in retainers as seen in pictures.

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