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When you say the engine "dies out", are you referring to the engine going into "limp" mode? Are you getting any warning lights on the dash (e.g. engine overheating)? The exhaust gas temperature sensor is relatively easy to replace as you can reach it from the top of the engine. (at least you can on my 05 BCGT). The bank 2 sensor is longer than the bank 1.
When you say the engine "dies out", are you referring to the engine going into "limp" mode? Are you getting any warning lights on the dash (e.g. engine overheating)? The exhaust gas temperature sensor is relatively easy to replace as you can reach it from the top of the engine. (at least you can on my 05 BCGT). The bank 2 sensor is longer than the bank 1.
@PMS - This is what I have observed, I start the car and I feel it's misfiring when I throttle her a little bit (Revs aren't smooth) and the moment the temperature needle is about to hit 90 Deg Celsius, the engine will die out (stall).
If you clear the error code and it reappears, the first thing I would do is replace the exhaust gas temperature sensor on Bank 2. I believe the part # is: 07C919529L (280.62 USD from Scuderia Parts in the UK) .
If you clear the error code and it reappears, the first thing I would do is replace the exhaust gas temperature sensor on Bank 2. I believe the part # is: 07C919529L (280.62 USD from Scuderia Parts in the UK) .
@PMS - Appreciate your inputs.
Ordering a sensor is no big deal.. My concern is that why should the car stall after reaching its operating temperature. Misfires, Error Codes etc.. all understood coz of a faulty sensor but the car stalling at operating temperature make me worry a little more than usual.
I am hoping, it's nothing to do with vaccum leaks or something of similar sorts.
I have not heard of the problem you are experiencing. I'm sure a lot of my advice will fall into the "firm grasp of the obvious" category, but possibly still worth exploring. With your previous vacuum leak repair, which hoses did you replace?
When you start your car and the idle is rough, does stepping on the brake smooth it out? Do hear the vacuum boost pump running all the time?
It is on the passenger side (with a RHD Bentley) in the wheel well. If the pump keeps running for 20 seconds after you take your foot off the brake, you may indeed have a vacuum leak. With the bonnet open, can you hear any hissing sounds? If you suspect a vacuum leak, a smoke-test is the simplest way to diagnose it.
What scanning tool are you using? You will probably need a deep-level (e.g. VAS 5054A) Bentley-specific diagnostic tool to determine if there are other problems. Normally, if the ECUs sense a serious problem, they will put the car in limp mode to save the engine.
I am just currently going through the "false positive OVERHEATING issue" addressed in other threads. Consequently, I have learned a little bit about the gas temperature sensors. Let me be clear: my car throws the "overheating" error intermittently and the car's drive-by-wire throttle goes dead for a split second. After about 15 more seconds, the error disappears. From what I read here on the forum, the problem I am experiencing is quite common.
My car never goes into limp mode or stalls. You may also have an ECU problem. Be careful as repeated misfires can fry the cats!
Previously I mentioned that I had never heard of the engine stalling when hot. A review of my records shows that I experienced a "no-start" condition when the car was in extreme heat conditions. My notes showed that, if the car was left idling (regardless of ambient temperature) for about 15 minutes, it would stutter and stall. After a LOT of investigation, we discovered the wiring to the ECU was broken within the casing. I remember there were four wires in the case and two were broken. The final diagnosis was that the impedence in the wire built up with heat and the ECU shut everything down. We repaired the damaged wire and haven't had a problem since.
Previously I mentioned that I had never heard of the engine stalling when hot. A review of my records shows that I experienced a "no-start" condition when the car was in extreme heat conditions. My notes showed that, if the car was left idling (regardless of ambient temperature) for about 15 minutes, it would stutter and stall. After a LOT of investigation, we discovered the wiring to the ECU was broken within the casing. I remember there were four wires in the case and two were broken. The final diagnosis was that the impedence in the wire built up with heat and the ECU shut everything down. We repaired the damaged wire and haven't had a problem since.
@PMS - Thanks once again.
At the moment, the car is refusing to start. I am going to go through the Wires to the ECU and see if I find something.
@PMS - Thanks. Have just read the thread.
The car is just parked at one spot for days and have not started it. When I turn on the Ignition, the Needle shows Temp over 30Deg Celcius, isn’t that strange.
I pulled out one of the fuel feed line going into the engine and cranked the engine to see if there is fuel supply but surprisingly no fuel pumping at crank. I did check the fuses & the relay which are Ok. There is supply voltage to both the fuel pumps at the rear.
Cant seem to figure out why isn’t the car starting anymore when it was just a few days back.
Yes, the Engine does turn over.
I got the following codes when it refused to start:
P0122 Throttle/Pedal Pos. Sensor A Circ. :low Input
P0221 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Range/Performance
P1912 Pressure Sensor For Brake Boosterpen Circuit/short Circuit To B+
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1:Circuit High
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Bank 1:Circuit High
P0102 Mass Or Volume Air Flow Circ. :low Input
P1429 Brake Vacuum Pump Activationpen Circuit
P1923 Check DTC Memory Of:engine Control Module (ECM) 2
U0121 Lost Communication With:anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
After clearing the codes what remains is:
P0013 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Bank 1: Circuit High
P0547 Exhasut Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Bank 2
Please consider changing the exhaust temperature sensor on bank 2. This is the driver side ( USA). A faulty sensor can cause these problems. Short of doing this may be a "tail chaser".
The air intake sensor also needs evaluation, if indeed the problem. This sensor can cause an engine running problem. I do find it perplexing that both sensors failed at the same time.
Anyways p0013, refers to cam sensor actuator circuit. Should this be the case the vehicle can't be started until repaired. Without the cam sensor circuit function would explain no fuel pressure at start.
An online search of these two trouble codes is a good idea. They are universal to Volkswagen and Audi. The same principles apply since a lot is not available specific to Bentley.
Last edited by 1eapplebaum; 10-26-2018 at 12:43 AM.
Hi Guys,
Good News..!
The car started.
After exploring all possible options, at last we decided to remove the fuel pump and check whether the tank had fuel. To our surprise, we couldn’t see any fuel. Filled in about 20 litres and the car started. The fuel gauge showed a faulty reading of 1/4th tank of fuel.
Now just need to get over with following fault codes:
P0547 - 07C919529L (Ordering this part) - How difficult is it to install?
P0013 - 06B905379D (Can somebody confirm if this is the correct part#?)
10-12-2018, 01:11 AM
pen Circuit/short Circuit To B+
