First scan questions...
 

So the Ross Tech VCDS Hex-2 came in the mail. Did my first scan and wanted some input before clearing codes. I did the Auto scan and came up with a bunch of 0010 malfunction codes. I would assume these are nothing to bother with, but wanted input before I dismissed them. Learning how to use this thing is going to take some time. I wish there was a cliff notes version. Thanx

How about posting them? Some will not be a problem. Some might be. Certainly clearing everything and starting a fresh is *an* approach.

C

Post the scan if you can.

And just a heads-up as to clearing the faults, do not use the "clear all" button, go into each module address number showing a hard or Intermittent fault and clear each one by one.

Johnny

I'm curious as to why? I know on mine 'Clear All' won't work because of the Ben-HUR but would be interested.

C

Let's see if the pdf below attached?

Thanks for reviewing my scan and providing feedback!

From what I can see there's only one that even looks like it might be current, which is the mirror retract. Everything else is old. Personally I would clear them and see if anything comes back. I wonder if your car had a battery issue last year?

I might be missing something though

C

I think that most Bentley owners would be very happy with a print out like that i.e. one showing so few faults. From what I can see, you’ve got:

• A (current) problem with a air flap motor inside the heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) system which may or may not annoy you, but will probably be a complex job to replace.
• A (past) comms problem on one of the CAN Buses – but that may have been something as simple as being next to a taxi when the driver pressed his PTT switch and generated broadband noise.
• A ((current) fault with the passenger mirror motor – but if your mirror retracts correctly, then it may simply be a current level which is outside parameters, so ignore until it fails.
• A couple of (past) faults with the audio system: battery voltage too high - which no other module reported at the same time, so I’d ignore - and a cable break to the sub-woofer which has happened again recently, so again I’d ignore.

All in all a very creditable performance for an eight year old car.

Dark Green, Thanks for the detailed write up. Please excuse my ignorance on this electronic computerized stuff.

HVAC Flap positioning motor defective - Is there a way to know which one is defective and/or how can I Identify if it's repairable or needs to be replaced?

CAN Buses? I assume you are referencing malfunction issues number 17, 19, 26 & 37? Should I just clear these codes and see if they return? I don't know what a CAN BUS is?

Passenger Mirror Motor - My passenger mirror is fully operational at the moment.

Audio system faults - Are those 37(Navigation),47 (sound system), 56(Radio) & 77(Telephone)? My cell phone connects via blue tooth but will not stream audio. It only works for calls. I would like to fix that if possible. Could this be address 77? Any clue as to what the issue may be?

What is a cable break to the sub woofer? Where did you pick that up and what is a cable break?

Thank You for your time?

Hello @Linescreamer ,
As DG stated, you have a few hard faults and Intermittent faults, but nothing from 2021, the Intermittent faults are just that, Intermittent, meaning that they did not happen enough times to set a hard fault, Intermittent faults can also be stated as pending faults, if the fault continues, it will set the fault and no longer show the word "Intermittent".

As to your sub woofer 2 fault, it states that you have an open circuit, most likely a wire, or it could be a blown sub, how is the bass in your system, I believe by the "466 J" you have the premium/NAIM system, if so, how does the sub sound, what I do find odd is that the date is 2010, but I believe that you have a 2013.

The CAN-BUS is how all the systems talk to each other just like a computer, and those faults are Intermittent, so clear them.

The NAVI fault is a hard fault showing that the tuner is not enabled nor activated, I do not have a newer generation system so I am not fully aware of the system, does your system require Google earth or the like by any subscription ?

Your telephone shows "module not coded" as a hard fault, but again it shows 2010...

As to your vehicle streaming music, show us the inside of your glove box by picture.

Johnny

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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...a0ade5f8df.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...ab30c84a33.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...660649c658.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...5bbed0907f.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...aa93e3cc01.jpg

You're very welcome. Excused.

I’ve trawled through IETIS parts lists and circuit diagrams, and I can’t find any reference to V71, so I’m no further forward in identifying which motor the fault code refers to.

The only way that I can think of to do so is to use the ‘live data’ screen and watch which motors are activated as you manually select different modes for where the air is directed feet/head/screen etc, look to see which selection results in a ‘not achieved’ or similar tell back.

At least because you’ve apparently got a ‘hard’ i.e. permanent fault, it should be easy to diagnose, but be warned that the majority of the HVAC is behind the dashboard, so it’s an expensive job to have done.

A CAN-Bus is a pair of cables which travel between multiple computers within the car and allows any computer to put data words on the bus for reception by any other computer which sees it and has a use for the data. Unlike regular Internet Protocol communications, data is generally sent 'whole' i.e. not broken into packets, and is not addressed to a particular recipient. Unfortunately neither is the data or the sender authenticated, which is where the opportunity for hacking arises.

There are multiple CAN-Buses within a car: for powertrain, infotainment, comfort etc

CAN-Bus signals work differentially such that as one wire goes high to low, the other goes low to high, and the wires are twisted together so that the effect of any incoming electromagnetic fields get coupled into both wires equally therefore having minimal effect.

That said, interference does still occasionally occur, and the fact that your car suffered a period of lost communication, is really nothing to worry about.

In your position I would simply erase the codes and forget about them.

In which case it may well be that circuit is simply drawing an amount of electrical power which is outside of the limits defined in the firmware, so again it’s not worth worrying about.

By a “cable break” I mean a broken cable or wire that has resulted in an open circuit. Johnny has addressed this in quite some detail so there’s nothing more I can usefully add.

Awesome! Thanks. I did leave the mirrors set to defrost by mistake for a while. I also retract them every time I use the car.. Maybe that was excessive current draw.

I will have to figure out how to check the Hvac motors on the live data screen. I assume this is a Ross Tech feature?

I will get a picture of the glove box. Yes it has the Naim and everything (bass included) sounds unbelievable. I have a JVC 350W amp, polk audio speakers and a subwoffer in my truck; and this Naim system sounds far supperior.

Here's the glovebox

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...89c8cc918a.jpg

Hello @Linescreamer ,
When you purchased the vehicle, did it come with any of the cables to plug into this "Media In" socket ?

Johnny

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https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...07f4cb3789.jpg

No. What plugs in there?

iPod I think. Looks identical to the one I had for my Jag

C