2007 Continental GT rough idling
Great on getting a smoker!
Disconnect the line above the blue vacuum pump reservoir. Connect the smoke tester to that discnected 8mm line that passes into the engine bay. Perform the smoke test and see what happens☆. Next if no leaks are found continue testing as per the YouTube video to make sure.
☆A significant cracked vacuum line will smoke out without plugging the intake....
Disconnect the line above the blue vacuum pump reservoir. Connect the smoke tester to that discnected 8mm line that passes into the engine bay. Perform the smoke test and see what happens☆. Next if no leaks are found continue testing as per the YouTube video to make sure.
☆A significant cracked vacuum line will smoke out without plugging the intake....
Not sure yet. However, remove the stainless factory clamp on the horizontal 8 mm plastic line. Then connect to the line as stated earlier going back to the engine bay. Currently the tester is hooked up before the t fitting.
Also a better shot of where the smoke is coming out below the reservoir.
Also a better shot of where the smoke is coming out below the reservoir.
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; Oct 23, 2022 at 08:01 AM. Reason: Fix QUOTE
The vacuum lines behind the engine need to be replaced. The engine doesn't need to come out. Your photos confirm the updated vacuume line configuration. However the steering rack does...OR. Silvertones perfected a bypass without removing the steering rack. Perhaps reach for an explanation.
As for the smoke from the bottom of the vacuum pump... not sure. The suction pump may have some type of bypass. That aspect you'll need to evaluate further. Unless it's coming from a plastic vacuum line below, which would indicate a leak.
The vacuum pump is the same as the Audi A8.
The vacuum line failure is common on 1st generation B's. Use malleable copper nickel brake line to fabricate new lines.
As for the smoke from the bottom of the vacuum pump... not sure. The suction pump may have some type of bypass. That aspect you'll need to evaluate further. Unless it's coming from a plastic vacuum line below, which would indicate a leak.
The vacuum pump is the same as the Audi A8.
The vacuum line failure is common on 1st generation B's. Use malleable copper nickel brake line to fabricate new lines.
The vacuum lines behind the engine need to be replaced. The engine doesn't need to come out. Your photos confirm the updated vacuume line configuration. However the steering rack does...OR. Silvertones perfected a bypass without removing the steering rack. Perhaps reach for an explanation.
As for the smoke from the bottom of the vacuum pump... not sure. The suction pump may have some type of bypass. That aspect you'll need to evaluate further. Unless it's coming from a plastic vacuum line below, which would indicate a leak.
The vacuum pump is the same as the Audi A8.
The vacuum line failure is common on 1st generation B's. Use malleable copper nickel brake line to fabricate new lines.
As for the smoke from the bottom of the vacuum pump... not sure. The suction pump may have some type of bypass. That aspect you'll need to evaluate further. Unless it's coming from a plastic vacuum line below, which would indicate a leak.
The vacuum pump is the same as the Audi A8.
The vacuum line failure is common on 1st generation B's. Use malleable copper nickel brake line to fabricate new lines.
I ordered a new pump , will test again after replacement.
Any idea of the repair cost or hours charged for removing the steering rack ?
A gestimate, about 20 hours. Depending on location find an independent. This is hours for the whole job. Figure labor somewhere between $100 and a $150 an hour, even more in urban centers.
Taking the rack out could be anywhere from 8 to 10 hours depending on skill level. A car never exposed to roadsalt will be easier.
The dealer's hourly rate is high and they do the job per the book: Engine out and plastic lines.
I had the dreaded vacuum leak along the firewall that seems so common. I was just about to start removing the steering rack when I came across Steve's bypass idea. Ordered the copper lines and associated parts from Amazon and the job took me 3-4 hours but I do have a lift which made it easier. Less than $100 in parts. MUCH easier than removing the rack and then having to get an alignment.
There is a great photo DIY writeup here that I used. I'll see if I can find it.
Ron
There is a great photo DIY writeup here that I used. I'll see if I can find it.
Ron
Found it; It's the group of photos toward the end of the thread
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...y-input-4.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...y-input-4.html
I had the dreaded vacuum leak along the firewall that seems so common. I was just about to start removing the steering rack when I came across Steve's bypass idea. Ordered the copper lines and associated parts from Amazon and the job took me 3-4 hours but I do have a lift which made it easier. Less than $100 in parts. MUCH easier than removing the rack and then having to get an alignment.
There is a great photo DIY writeup here that I used. I'll see if I can find it.
Ron
There is a great photo DIY writeup here that I used. I'll see if I can find it.
Ron
Also , what length ?
Sure.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLMBB54...t_details&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015YGRDDG...roduct_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S8VVKTS...roduct_details
I ended up with extra of all of the above but didn't want to be short.
Ron
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLMBB54...t_details&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015YGRDDG...roduct_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S8VVKTS...roduct_details
I ended up with extra of all of the above but didn't want to be short.
Ron
Have you used any rubber hose for connections ?
Yes, I used the rubber hose in the areas where tight bends occur. If you order what I posted above you will have enough for the job.
I've never worked with a copper lines , what kind of cutter and bender have you used ?




