FVD Tune and Diverter Valves
FVD Tune and Diverter Valves
Dave at Greenmotorsport hooked it up with a custom tune that is simply amazing. Sent me everything I needed to download the stock tune and flash in the new one. Nice and easy job. Also added the FVD Billet Diverter Valves.
Here are some pics of the diverter valve install:
Remove front wheels, inner fender liners, lower front belly shield.
These 2 tools are extremely helpful, Long right angled needle nose and long radiator hose tool to break the seal to get the hoses off easier. Also a T25 torx, 10mm socket, and for the belly pan you can either use a 10mm or a T30 torx. 7 or 8 mm socket for the FVD hose clamps.

Here is a pic of the stock vs FVD. The FVD is nice with a swivel end and quick disconnect adapter for vacuum line.

The Passenger side valve is super easy to do. Remove and replace.

The driver side is a bit more difficult but nothing crazy. This is where the long right angled pliers will help with the pinch clamp up in the engine compartment. The intercooler shroud can just be flexed out of the way. If it was really cold out I would have warmed it up with a heat gun first. I have the handle there to hold it over a little extra for a pic.


Stock driver side removed:

In this pic the top hose clamp needed to be flipped around and to the top. Forgot to take pic of it after I found out.

Driver side FVD valve installed:

With it all in place and done:

Dont't forget to clean up things while you have things apart:

Also the driver side vacuum line was pinched off some from the valve leaning into the intercooler shroud. Terrible design from the factory. I left the line attached and even with me stretching it out to take a pic you can see where the pinch was right out of the valve.

Here are some pics of the diverter valve install:
Remove front wheels, inner fender liners, lower front belly shield.
These 2 tools are extremely helpful, Long right angled needle nose and long radiator hose tool to break the seal to get the hoses off easier. Also a T25 torx, 10mm socket, and for the belly pan you can either use a 10mm or a T30 torx. 7 or 8 mm socket for the FVD hose clamps.

Here is a pic of the stock vs FVD. The FVD is nice with a swivel end and quick disconnect adapter for vacuum line.

The Passenger side valve is super easy to do. Remove and replace.

The driver side is a bit more difficult but nothing crazy. This is where the long right angled pliers will help with the pinch clamp up in the engine compartment. The intercooler shroud can just be flexed out of the way. If it was really cold out I would have warmed it up with a heat gun first. I have the handle there to hold it over a little extra for a pic.


Stock driver side removed:

In this pic the top hose clamp needed to be flipped around and to the top. Forgot to take pic of it after I found out.

Driver side FVD valve installed:

With it all in place and done:

Dont't forget to clean up things while you have things apart:

Also the driver side vacuum line was pinched off some from the valve leaning into the intercooler shroud. Terrible design from the factory. I left the line attached and even with me stretching it out to take a pic you can see where the pinch was right out of the valve.

Awesome write up and pics - and just in time. I just received my new DV's and was trying to decide if I should attempt installation myself. I'm definitely gonna do it now! Did you notice a difference in performance after? BTW, I'm in central NJ and was wondering where you're located...should I need some tech support (lol) or just to meet a fellow Cayenne owner...
Erik
Erik
I'm in Jersey City Heights.
I have a 957 turbo. On the 956 turbo I'm pretty sure the driver side valve is on the other side in the engine compartment. Up where I have my needle nose. Not next to the intercooler.
I have a 957 turbo. On the 956 turbo I'm pretty sure the driver side valve is on the other side in the engine compartment. Up where I have my needle nose. Not next to the intercooler.
Are those a piston style BPV?
I've had to take apart, clean and lube every piston style BPV I've ever had about every 10-15k miles. They start to stick and cause boost issues. I'm trying out the APR valves on the CTT (diaphragm style) since they are son hard to get to on this car. Guess there are some other diaphragm style ones out there too. ( stock valves use a diaphragm )
I've had to take apart, clean and lube every piston style BPV I've ever had about every 10-15k miles. They start to stick and cause boost issues. I'm trying out the APR valves on the CTT (diaphragm style) since they are son hard to get to on this car. Guess there are some other diaphragm style ones out there too. ( stock valves use a diaphragm )
Yes these are piston style. I was going to use the upgraded Bosch style (to save some $) but since I was shopping FVD I went with the FVD ones. One stop shopping at Greenmotorsport.
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I'd be curious if you ever end up going in to oil them.
I felt like it was constant with my Forge 007 valves on my twin turbo Audi.
Maybe I will be better on the CTT since they re located low in the sytem instead of right on top.
I felt like it was constant with my Forge 007 valves on my twin turbo Audi.
Maybe I will be better on the CTT since they re located low in the sytem instead of right on top.
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