Brake Booster warning troubleshooting
 

Well, last few days, got the brake booster warning on the instrument cluster.
I read the existing thread(s) on here and elsewhere on the topic, but still need some help with pd.


Here are my observations:
- Obvious brake booster warning on cluster
- After reset, warning comes back within 5-10 minutes of driving
- No other errors are present (using Durametric)
- When I turn the car on, and turn off radio/ac, whenever I press the brake pedal, I can hear the vacuum pump (I assume - the silver canister on passenger side, near the washer fluid reservoir) activating for about 20 seconds or so ,and then it turns off.
The pump will activate whenever I press the brake pedal (assuming the pump has stopped already before I press the pedal again).
- I visually inspected pipes near the vacuum pump and did not see any obvious breaks in line.
- Braking does not seem to have diminished at all despite the warning light
- When I press the brake pedal when the car is on (fast press), I hear a slight hiss coming from area of pedal inside cabin (not sure if this is a normal behavior as I do not normally listen for this and do not abruptly step on brakes either - with slow depress I do not hear that hiss)


Here is what I would need help with:
1. Someone to give me a good overview of the components involved, starting at the brake pedal, all the way through vacuum pumps, etc, where the issue may reside (I would like a good understanding of the components involved)
2. Possible places to look for issues
3. Anything else to help me fix this.



Greatly appreciate. Thanks in advance.

FOUND THE PROBLEM AND SOLUTION.



Note: This solution is just one of many possibilities in this system. There is some piping involved in the brake system and several locations exist, which coiuld be the issue. My isue was just one of several (so keep in mind when troubleshooting - check this location to see if this solution will work for you).


Problem: Found a pipe cracked near the firewall (aboiut 2 inches before the pipe enters the firewall, at the joint between the plastic pipe and a joining connector from another pipe which goes into the hose).
See pictures.

Solution: Used high heat electrical tape to tightly wrap up the cracked area. Used several 3 layers as the area expands when trying to insert hose connector into it. After wrapping, used 3 small zip ties (not shown in pics), to reinforce the crack area to prevent it from spreading when inserting the hose connector.
After putting everything together, used Durametric to reset the faults. DONE.

Other comments:
This area contains other hoses, so be careful when working here, as you may accidentally crack other attachment points.

Hope the pics help to show what I fixed in my case of this warning.

...more pics

ciaka thank you very much for the post. This helps me out alot. I have the same trouble shoot.

Np. Hope it helps.

With your instruction guides I fixed mine. Here are the images where the cracks was & how I fixed it. I only spent $3.00 for the electrical tape. hilariousYou saved me $640! Thanks!

glad to hear I was able to help. looks like you're all set to go. if some point the tape lets go that should be your . first place to troubleshoot. but if the tape holds forever, then you'll be all set to go. Take care. Now you will have $637 to spend on things other than leaky hose.

Good post! Mine '05 CTT is giving me the same code. Have an appt this Friday. Guess I'll take a look and try to save myself $637!

hey, if you do, you will spend about an hour of time, about $5 in parts, then you can take the remaining $632 and use it for something other than giving to the mechanics!!

If it is not hard to stop the car while pressing on the brake, it is likely not bad brake booster but a vacuum line somewhere. Bad booster will cause you to have to step on the brake with great force before the car will even start slowing down.
If it is a vacuum, then all you gotta do is check out the lines coming in and out of the brake vacuum pump to see where the leak is. Mine was at the firewall and I can say, it appears like a very easy place to brake due to one of the lines looping high over the area, then going down into the hose which disappears in the firewall. Any movement of hose in that area can cause it to crack because of the way they have it looping. You can see in the pics above.

Good luck and let us know if you had luck.

I only had a minute to remove the plastic engine cover. Didn't see any breaks in the lines next to the pump. Will try in the next couple of days to take the pump off and check next to the firewall. Brakes still seem to work well so likely just a cracked hose like you guys!

Look a little harder. The breaks are there. I was lucky my breaks was not near the fire wall. Good luck and keep us posted.

Took the pump off and found the leak. A little high heat electrical tape and a hose clamp fixed it right up. Thanks for the tip guys. That $600 will now go toward the 911TT repair!

Excellent!!!