'16 aftermarket audio
#1
'16 aftermarket audio
Wondering if anyone has upgraded their OEM speakers; and if so, how the install went and speaker location.
I have the Burmester system in my CTTS and it's just not cutting it; so am looking to upgrade. I'm pretty set on the speakers I'm getting and PCM/OEM integration, but for those that have all ready ventured down this path - I'd love to hear from you.
Thanks
I have the Burmester system in my CTTS and it's just not cutting it; so am looking to upgrade. I'm pretty set on the speakers I'm getting and PCM/OEM integration, but for those that have all ready ventured down this path - I'd love to hear from you.
Thanks
#2
I would find it difficult to believe that any aftermarket speakers are going to replace the Burmester speakers and actually be sonically superior. The system is quite impressive as is the quality of the components used right from the factory.
If you're looking for enough volume on low frequencies to rattle the windows of cars next to you (which I can already do with the Burmester) - then a big *** 1,000 watt/channel amp and a big box of speakers filling the entire rear compartment is the way to go. If you do go that route - I hope you enjoy tinnitus. That's the certain result.
If you're looking for enough volume on low frequencies to rattle the windows of cars next to you (which I can already do with the Burmester) - then a big *** 1,000 watt/channel amp and a big box of speakers filling the entire rear compartment is the way to go. If you do go that route - I hope you enjoy tinnitus. That's the certain result.
#3
I would find it difficult to believe that any aftermarket speakers are going to replace the Burmester speakers and actually be sonically superior. The system is quite impressive as is the quality of the components used right from the factory.
If you're looking for enough volume on low frequencies to rattle the windows of cars next to you (which I can already do with the Burmester) - then a big *** 1,000 watt/channel amp and a big box of speakers filling the entire rear compartment is the way to go. If you do go that route - I hope you enjoy tinnitus. That's the certain result.
If you're looking for enough volume on low frequencies to rattle the windows of cars next to you (which I can already do with the Burmester) - then a big *** 1,000 watt/channel amp and a big box of speakers filling the entire rear compartment is the way to go. If you do go that route - I hope you enjoy tinnitus. That's the certain result.
That's a pretty lengthy way to say that, in your opinion, my acoustic preferences are incorrect. I was looking for feedback from those that have done this, your passive-aggressive post doesn't move that conversation further along.
Regardless, no, I'm not looking for just bass. I'm primarily looking for better mids and highs. I'm assuming you've never experienced Dynaudio's drivers/ mids and tweeters? I think you should check them out if you get the chance, as imho, they far exceed the Burmester front stage. The Esotar2 line will be dramatic improvement.
It's a subjective topic we're dealing with, if you are happy with yours, that's great and all that should matter to you. There may be others that prefer a different sound and want to improve upon what they all ready have.
Back to the original point of my post. Has anyone upgraded their 958's stereo, if so, please share your experiences and installs. Thanks
#4
https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...m-ferrari.html
As far as improving the "front stage" - I've found the less customizing done with the Burmester programming the better the sound stage is. I have basically ended up with all the Burmester environment shaping turned off, generally +2db on the highs and +2db on bass - depending on the source. Some (classical music generally) sound better with flat response.
As far as improving the "front stage" - I've found the less customizing done with the Burmester programming the better the sound stage is. I have basically ended up with all the Burmester environment shaping turned off, generally +2db on the highs and +2db on bass - depending on the source. Some (classical music generally) sound better with flat response.
Last edited by deilenberger; 04-23-2018 at 09:02 AM.
#5
Thanks, I had read that thread earlier. I, too, don't utilize the Burmester preset options, but I consider those rather generic settings meant to give a little customization over the audio spectrum. I don't consider bass/treble settings as customizing.
I'll try to attach the a picture of what the Audison Bit One HD can control; and this can be implemented into the OEM system without touching any of the stock speakers.
Using this and having a professional tune would be a significant improvement over just bass/treble and front/back settings. Of course, for those who are extremely happy with the sound can just ignore this. If it's not broke, no need to fix it
I'll try to attach the a picture of what the Audison Bit One HD can control; and this can be implemented into the OEM system without touching any of the stock speakers.
Using this and having a professional tune would be a significant improvement over just bass/treble and front/back settings. Of course, for those who are extremely happy with the sound can just ignore this. If it's not broke, no need to fix it
#6
Mine was PCM 3.1, I replaced whole speakers and amp except HU
I guess I posted whole wiring and process in here;
I changed OEM PCM to alpine 2xPDX-V9. it's way better than PCM 3.1. I also tried to add PXA-H800 around a year ago but it didn't work well as I expected.
changing speakers were quick and easy, amp took a time for wiring and removing panels.
If I have a Burmester system, I don't go to the aftermaket upgrade. it could be 'down'grade or 'side'grade lol
I guess I posted whole wiring and process in here;
I changed OEM PCM to alpine 2xPDX-V9. it's way better than PCM 3.1. I also tried to add PXA-H800 around a year ago but it didn't work well as I expected.
changing speakers were quick and easy, amp took a time for wiring and removing panels.
If I have a Burmester system, I don't go to the aftermaket upgrade. it could be 'down'grade or 'side'grade lol
#7
I'm in the process of doing this with my 958.2. (Bose, but that doesn't really matter).
Despite it not being listed, the Mobridge DA1/DA3 does work with the Porsche PCM3.1. There are reports that bluetooth phone calls exhibit horrible echo though. I'm OK using a 3rd party BT speaker (Jabra, Parrot, etc) for the rare occasions I'm talking on the phone to get the digital signal intercepted from the MOST bus and before the equalization of the OEM DSP/amp.
To me, the biggest issues with the OEM system are sound stage and imaging - it's a hot mess. I'm sure the Burrmester sounds very good and presents a nice "surround" sound, but it seems the trend is to pack as many drivers as possible into the listening area. It's 2-channel audio here, not Dolby Atmos!
We're doing an AudioFrog GB10/GB25 combo in some custom sail panel pods - I've also seen a few Touareg's with A-pillar builds that came out very nicely as well using similar sized drivers. The doors will be getting an 8" midbass driver. Do note that the mounting depth there is limited. However, something like an AD W800 Neo will fit with very little modification, and from all the respected folks I've talked to, do the 8" midbass. It's really, really worth it.) I just don't have the budget for Neo's and the Audiofrog's, so we're having to use a more conventional driver. The whole front stage is being done in an active crossover configuration (really the only way to go with today's DSP) using the Mobridge DA3's DSP. (Some have started with a DA3 but moved to using a standalone DSP like a Helix for more flexibility, but my installer says he can make it work)
There's a lot of room in the driver's rear area to put a 10" or 12" sub and get it behind the panel for a stealth look (probably close to .75cu.ft.), or trim it out for a striking presentation. That's phase 2.0 of this build. For now I'll just have a small enclosure in the hatch. Later on we'll do something hidden. This only applies if you do NOT have the 4-zone HVAC. I'm told there's a bunch of stuff in the 4-zone models back there. You can probably use the spare tire well though - I have a DEF tank in there.
I don't have any install photos yet other than the amps and wiring (the amps are in the unused space in front of the spare tire under the hatch), but we should be wrapped up with Phase 1 in the next month or so.
Despite it not being listed, the Mobridge DA1/DA3 does work with the Porsche PCM3.1. There are reports that bluetooth phone calls exhibit horrible echo though. I'm OK using a 3rd party BT speaker (Jabra, Parrot, etc) for the rare occasions I'm talking on the phone to get the digital signal intercepted from the MOST bus and before the equalization of the OEM DSP/amp.
To me, the biggest issues with the OEM system are sound stage and imaging - it's a hot mess. I'm sure the Burrmester sounds very good and presents a nice "surround" sound, but it seems the trend is to pack as many drivers as possible into the listening area. It's 2-channel audio here, not Dolby Atmos!
We're doing an AudioFrog GB10/GB25 combo in some custom sail panel pods - I've also seen a few Touareg's with A-pillar builds that came out very nicely as well using similar sized drivers. The doors will be getting an 8" midbass driver. Do note that the mounting depth there is limited. However, something like an AD W800 Neo will fit with very little modification, and from all the respected folks I've talked to, do the 8" midbass. It's really, really worth it.) I just don't have the budget for Neo's and the Audiofrog's, so we're having to use a more conventional driver. The whole front stage is being done in an active crossover configuration (really the only way to go with today's DSP) using the Mobridge DA3's DSP. (Some have started with a DA3 but moved to using a standalone DSP like a Helix for more flexibility, but my installer says he can make it work)
There's a lot of room in the driver's rear area to put a 10" or 12" sub and get it behind the panel for a stealth look (probably close to .75cu.ft.), or trim it out for a striking presentation. That's phase 2.0 of this build. For now I'll just have a small enclosure in the hatch. Later on we'll do something hidden. This only applies if you do NOT have the 4-zone HVAC. I'm told there's a bunch of stuff in the 4-zone models back there. You can probably use the spare tire well though - I have a DEF tank in there.
I don't have any install photos yet other than the amps and wiring (the amps are in the unused space in front of the spare tire under the hatch), but we should be wrapped up with Phase 1 in the next month or so.
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#8
Despite big pricetag and exclusive badge, Burmester system is pretty lame.
The ribbon tweeter is ok, but the mids and bass drivers are mid-fi at best. You can get much better sound using quality drivers, like Focal or Dynaudio.
I have examined how the burmester is designed and what parts are used and was very much surprised (and disappointed) how cheaply it is built. I still cannot believe how much they charge for this crap! To me, the Burmester system only costs around $200 in OEM pricing more the BOSE one. There is certainly room for improvement.
PS. I've been working for AUDIO magazine for almost 25 years and won the Pro600W class in car audio back in 1999. I was also GASCA (German Auto Sound Challenge Association) judge.
The ribbon tweeter is ok, but the mids and bass drivers are mid-fi at best. You can get much better sound using quality drivers, like Focal or Dynaudio.
I have examined how the burmester is designed and what parts are used and was very much surprised (and disappointed) how cheaply it is built. I still cannot believe how much they charge for this crap! To me, the Burmester system only costs around $200 in OEM pricing more the BOSE one. There is certainly room for improvement.
PS. I've been working for AUDIO magazine for almost 25 years and won the Pro600W class in car audio back in 1999. I was also GASCA (German Auto Sound Challenge Association) judge.
#10
I finally have my components finalized. Once the items are received and install is scheduled, I'll try to document the install as best I can here for future reference to others. Hopefully install will begin in 2-3 weeks.
#11
I dropped the CD off this past weekend at the shop. I'm nervous and excited as hell. The owner has the same AudioFrog components in his own car, and the clarity & definition was VERY impressive!
Here's what I ended up doing with the Amps - a Zapco ST-6x SQ for the front stage (100x6), and a ST-500XMII (500x1) for the sub.
Amps with cover removed
Amps with the cover in place
Mobridge DSP accessed through the CD changer cubbyhole
Master fuse accessible under the seat
I'll be picking the CD back up this coming weekend the 19th..
Here's what I ended up doing with the Amps - a Zapco ST-6x SQ for the front stage (100x6), and a ST-500XMII (500x1) for the sub.
Amps with cover removed
Amps with the cover in place
Mobridge DSP accessed through the CD changer cubbyhole
Master fuse accessible under the seat
I'll be picking the CD back up this coming weekend the 19th..
#12
Here's what I ended up doing with the Amps - a Zapco ST-6x SQ for the front stage (100x6), and a ST-500XMII (500x1) for the sub.
Amps with cover removed
Amps with the cover in place
Mobridge DSP accessed through the CD changer cubbyhole
Master fuse accessible under the seat
I'll be picking the CD back up this coming weekend the 19th..
Nice set-up. I debated going with the Zapco as well but ultimately decided on a Mmats HiFi-6150D for the front speakers.
Clean install, but doesn't having those big A/B amps covered worry you in regards to heat dissipation?
#13
I was told that it's not a big issue, which kinda makes sense. If I was driving all 6 channels at full-tilt for an hour, it might be an issue. The mid-basses will be only driver that may ever see full power, but certainly the midranges & tweeters will never see that much power.
The XM500 is a class D, but that will be driving the sub, so it will get a little warm.
There are a few installs on Touareg's where the same location was used, and the (non-fan-cooled) amps didn't ever get too hot.
But since I'm me, I will be putting a temperature probe in there while I really crank it in the garage to see how warm is really does get.
The XM500 is a class D, but that will be driving the sub, so it will get a little warm.
There are a few installs on Touareg's where the same location was used, and the (non-fan-cooled) amps didn't ever get too hot.
But since I'm me, I will be putting a temperature probe in there while I really crank it in the garage to see how warm is really does get.
#14
I just got the CD back from the installer, and ho-lee-hell. It looks good, and sounds AMAZING. The imaging, clarity, and dynamics are KILLER - I'm used to systems that get LOUD, and this does that and more, while staying impressively clear. Instead of the 2.5" mid and 1" tweeter combo in the sail panels, we ended up using Audible Physics NZ3AlBe wideband drivers. I was skeptical that a single driver could go from 450hz to 20khz, but it works, and works WELL.
More than being dynamic, I'm also really enjoying finding things in the music I hadn't heard so clearly before, and even listening to a few tracks I wouldn't have previously, just because it sounds so damn good to my ears.
Anyway, here's a few photos of the sail panel enclosures he built from scratch. They blend with the interior perfectly, and the angles are proper. The Scanspeak 22w 8" midbasses are the absolute deepest driver that will fit, and were installed on HDPE baffles after sound deadening and insulating the door.
More than being dynamic, I'm also really enjoying finding things in the music I hadn't heard so clearly before, and even listening to a few tracks I wouldn't have previously, just because it sounds so damn good to my ears.
Anyway, here's a few photos of the sail panel enclosures he built from scratch. They blend with the interior perfectly, and the angles are proper. The Scanspeak 22w 8" midbasses are the absolute deepest driver that will fit, and were installed on HDPE baffles after sound deadening and insulating the door.
Last edited by Eskimo1; 05-21-2018 at 08:13 AM.