Proud New Owner 2011 CTT
#1
Proud New Owner 2011 CTT
Hi All!
I recently picked up my first Porsche! A somewhat high-mileage (89K) fully loaded 2011 CTT from a fellow Porsche enthusiast in San Diego. The car came with a handful of records but a lot of service items still need to be sorted. I consider myself pretty handy and hope to tackle a lot of the smaller items on my own. Look forward to meeting other SoCal CTT owners and contributing to this forum where I can.
Also - would love to do a meet-up or buy beer for folks who would be willing to lend garage space and expertise around simple fixes like changing diff. fluid, taking a look at brake-pad swap and a few other misc. items that are on my to-do list.
Loving the car so far - I find myself looking for excuses to drive now that she's mine!
I recently picked up my first Porsche! A somewhat high-mileage (89K) fully loaded 2011 CTT from a fellow Porsche enthusiast in San Diego. The car came with a handful of records but a lot of service items still need to be sorted. I consider myself pretty handy and hope to tackle a lot of the smaller items on my own. Look forward to meeting other SoCal CTT owners and contributing to this forum where I can.
Also - would love to do a meet-up or buy beer for folks who would be willing to lend garage space and expertise around simple fixes like changing diff. fluid, taking a look at brake-pad swap and a few other misc. items that are on my to-do list.
Loving the car so far - I find myself looking for excuses to drive now that she's mine!
#2
Congratulations. Great looking Pepper.
Brake pad swap? Your car has PCCB (Ceramic brakes). I'd be surprised if the pads are worn out at your mileage, but its possible the rears are more worn that the fronts due to the PSM traction control applying the rear brakes. Rotors should last the life of the car unless someone tracked it and are about $5,000 each to replace - strangely, people have tracked their Cayennes.
Be very careful when doing any wheel removal work and use 2 of the guide pins (1 should be in your tool kit - buy a second one from Suncoast). If the wheel falls onto the edge of the rotor it will chip it. If the chip is in the swept area of the pad, you'll need a new rotor. If you take your car anywhere for service, take a cell phone pic of each rotor before they do the work so if they chip one it's them that buy the replacement.
The PCCBs are so worth the extra hassle and care though. If you ever get them hot, you won't believe the braking force available, and zero dust on your wheels. Be a little careful in the rain though - there's about a 1 second delay before they bite when the surface is wet, or maybe it just feels like 1 second, might be 1/2 that but feels longer when you're waiting g for stopping power.
If you do need new pads, make sure you get the ones for the PCCB rotors. They're made by Pagid or TRW.
Also, on a 2011 make sure you check the cam bolts to see if you have the recalled aluminum ones with the tamper resistant head that snaps off or the good ones. Also, plan yo do a transfer case fluid change sooner rather than later.
Brake pad swap? Your car has PCCB (Ceramic brakes). I'd be surprised if the pads are worn out at your mileage, but its possible the rears are more worn that the fronts due to the PSM traction control applying the rear brakes. Rotors should last the life of the car unless someone tracked it and are about $5,000 each to replace - strangely, people have tracked their Cayennes.
Be very careful when doing any wheel removal work and use 2 of the guide pins (1 should be in your tool kit - buy a second one from Suncoast). If the wheel falls onto the edge of the rotor it will chip it. If the chip is in the swept area of the pad, you'll need a new rotor. If you take your car anywhere for service, take a cell phone pic of each rotor before they do the work so if they chip one it's them that buy the replacement.
The PCCBs are so worth the extra hassle and care though. If you ever get them hot, you won't believe the braking force available, and zero dust on your wheels. Be a little careful in the rain though - there's about a 1 second delay before they bite when the surface is wet, or maybe it just feels like 1 second, might be 1/2 that but feels longer when you're waiting g for stopping power.
If you do need new pads, make sure you get the ones for the PCCB rotors. They're made by Pagid or TRW.
Also, on a 2011 make sure you check the cam bolts to see if you have the recalled aluminum ones with the tamper resistant head that snaps off or the good ones. Also, plan yo do a transfer case fluid change sooner rather than later.
#3
Congratulations. Great looking Pepper.
Brake pad swap? Your car has PCCB (Ceramic brakes). I'd be surprised if the pads are worn out at your mileage, but its possible the rears are more worn that the fronts due to the PSM traction control applying the rear brakes. Rotors should last the life of the car unless someone tracked it and are about $5,000 each to replace - strangely, people have tracked their Cayennes.
Be very careful when doing any wheel removal work and use 2 of the guide pins (1 should be in your tool kit - buy a second one from Suncoast). If the wheel falls onto the edge of the rotor it will chip it. If the chip is in the swept area of the pad, you'll need a new rotor. If you take your car anywhere for service, take a cell phone pic of each rotor before they do the work so if they chip one it's them that buy the replacement.
The PCCBs are so worth the extra hassle and care though. If you ever get them hot, you won't believe the braking force available, and zero dust on your wheels. Be a little careful in the rain though - there's about a 1 second delay before they bite when the surface is wet, or maybe it just feels like 1 second, might be 1/2 that but feels longer when you're waiting g for stopping power.
If you do need new pads, make sure you get the ones for the PCCB rotors. They're made by Pagid or TRW.
Also, on a 2011 make sure you check the cam bolts to see if you have the recalled aluminum ones with the tamper resistant head that snaps off or the good ones. Also, plan yo do a transfer case fluid change sooner rather than later.
Brake pad swap? Your car has PCCB (Ceramic brakes). I'd be surprised if the pads are worn out at your mileage, but its possible the rears are more worn that the fronts due to the PSM traction control applying the rear brakes. Rotors should last the life of the car unless someone tracked it and are about $5,000 each to replace - strangely, people have tracked their Cayennes.
Be very careful when doing any wheel removal work and use 2 of the guide pins (1 should be in your tool kit - buy a second one from Suncoast). If the wheel falls onto the edge of the rotor it will chip it. If the chip is in the swept area of the pad, you'll need a new rotor. If you take your car anywhere for service, take a cell phone pic of each rotor before they do the work so if they chip one it's them that buy the replacement.
The PCCBs are so worth the extra hassle and care though. If you ever get them hot, you won't believe the braking force available, and zero dust on your wheels. Be a little careful in the rain though - there's about a 1 second delay before they bite when the surface is wet, or maybe it just feels like 1 second, might be 1/2 that but feels longer when you're waiting g for stopping power.
If you do need new pads, make sure you get the ones for the PCCB rotors. They're made by Pagid or TRW.
Also, on a 2011 make sure you check the cam bolts to see if you have the recalled aluminum ones with the tamper resistant head that snaps off or the good ones. Also, plan yo do a transfer case fluid change sooner rather than later.
#4
Welcome to the forum. I had 3x Cayenne's and if you maintain them, they're bulletproof. The most recent one being a 2013 CTT I bought new and put over 110K on the dial when it was traded in last year.
The PCCB's will squeal when it hits a hard patch on the rotor. It is normal with PCCB's across all manufacturers.
I think sparks are done every 40K on the CTT. Transfer case is 100K or 7 years. At 100K, the fuel pressure regulator got stuck on open throwing a check engine light...
Enjoy the heck out of her!
The PCCB's will squeal when it hits a hard patch on the rotor. It is normal with PCCB's across all manufacturers.
I think sparks are done every 40K on the CTT. Transfer case is 100K or 7 years. At 100K, the fuel pressure regulator got stuck on open throwing a check engine light...
Enjoy the heck out of her!
#5
Welcome to the forum. I had 3x Cayenne's and if you maintain them, they're bulletproof. The most recent one being a 2013 CTT I bought new and put over 110K on the dial when it was traded in last year.
The PCCB's will squeal when it hits a hard patch on the rotor. It is normal with PCCB's across all manufacturers.
I think sparks are done every 40K on the CTT. Transfer case is 100K or 7 years. At 100K, the fuel pressure regulator got stuck on open throwing a check engine light...
Enjoy the heck out of her!
The PCCB's will squeal when it hits a hard patch on the rotor. It is normal with PCCB's across all manufacturers.
I think sparks are done every 40K on the CTT. Transfer case is 100K or 7 years. At 100K, the fuel pressure regulator got stuck on open throwing a check engine light...
Enjoy the heck out of her!
Added new tires
Brake pads have 50% per PPI
Diff/Trans fluids done in last 10K miles
Oil Change just completed
Transfer Case replaced at 35K miles - knock on wood...seems OK now.
Spark Plugs done at 80K
Unknowns:
Last brake fluid flush
Other things I should think of or check?
To Do:
Wipers are "missing" a big streak right at eye level on the drivers side
Clean out drain plugs
Re-finish all 4 wheels (previous owner really beat them up)
Paint Correction and serious detail - SoCal recommendations welcome!
Figure out how to get creases out of back seat from previous owners car seat
Last edited by CAllen626; 05-23-2018 at 03:50 PM.
#7
Yeah plugs were done at 80K, I do have PDCC so I will need to address that as well. Thanks for the feedback!
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#8
Thanks for the warm welcome! I do like the PCCB's but they're squealing like mad lately. Not sure what I need to do - PPI revealed all pads have about 50% brake pad life left but the squeaking is driving me mad. The Cam Bolts have been addressed and all fluids were done around 80K miles. I did some searching looking for service interval dates for fluid changes and came up dry. Any idea how frequently I should flush the transfer case? It feels like cheap insurance but I wonder if at ~10K miles since the last flush it would be worth doing.
50% pad life is a lot of miles. The pads should have these dampeners adhered to the back of the pads which lock into the caliper pistons and give the pistons a vibration absorbing pad to press against when applying the brakes. Squealing is usually caused by oscillations between the rear of the pad and the caliper pistons, not from the pad surface on the rotor like most think. You should need 6 of these vibration dampeners per front caliper and 4 per rear caliper. They're the 28mm versions.
Maybe yours are missing or have come unglued from the rear of the pads.
#9
Beautiful ride, it is my car's twin!
Yes the PCCBs do make a lot of noise especially in stop and go traffic. The other day I was in traffic and a lady driving a car on the side of me was plugging her ears as we came to a stop because my brakes were so loud!
When I bought mine at 62k miles the PPI told me I had 72% front and 79% back brake life left however this past weekend I decided to check them again and at just over 70k I am below 50% on the fronts and around 65% on the rears. I guess I drive it harder than the previous owner!
From what I am told the pads have around 11mm of material on them new and they say at 50% they should be changed.
Good luck with it!
Yes the PCCBs do make a lot of noise especially in stop and go traffic. The other day I was in traffic and a lady driving a car on the side of me was plugging her ears as we came to a stop because my brakes were so loud!
When I bought mine at 62k miles the PPI told me I had 72% front and 79% back brake life left however this past weekend I decided to check them again and at just over 70k I am below 50% on the fronts and around 65% on the rears. I guess I drive it harder than the previous owner!
From what I am told the pads have around 11mm of material on them new and they say at 50% they should be changed.
Good luck with it!
Last edited by porscheman170; 05-24-2018 at 06:18 AM.
#10
There is no valid reason to change brake pads with 50%life left. Its the same friction material all the way through, and in fact the way the edges of the pads are tapered, as they wear, the surface area of the contact area increases, so the latter 50% will probably last longer than the first 50%. Replacements are about $300 per axle from Suncoast. I don't know about you, but I have other things to use $300 for than unnecessary pad replacement.
#11
There is no valid reason to change brake pads with 50%life left. Its the same friction material all the way through, and in fact the way the edges of the pads are tapered, as they wear, the surface area of the contact area increases, so the latter 50% will probably last longer than the first 50%. Replacements are about $300 per axle from Suncoast. I don't know about you, but I have other things to use $300 for than unnecessary pad replacement.
Also, when cold I found that I sort of clunk into first gear. Not violently, but I can feel a fraction of a second of acceleration before first gear. Anything to worry about?
Lastly, would you guys bother getting the wheels refinished? I got a couple quotes ranging from $175-$225/wheel. I would like them to be perfect though at somepoint I have to come to terms with the fact that this is a 7 year old car w/ 89K miles on it...
#12
Thanks for that - for me, the noise is just so insanely loud and annoying, it drives me mad. For $300 bucks, it might be worth it. I took the car for a ride today and did a fair bit of 80-45mph stops and still she screatched coming back into the garage.
Also, when cold I found that I sort of clunk into first gear. Not violently, but I can feel a fraction of a second of acceleration before first gear. Anything to worry about?
Lastly, would you guys bother getting the wheels refinished? I got a couple quotes ranging from $175-$225/wheel. I would like them to be perfect though at somepoint I have to come to terms with the fact that this is a 7 year old car w/ 89K miles on it...
Also, when cold I found that I sort of clunk into first gear. Not violently, but I can feel a fraction of a second of acceleration before first gear. Anything to worry about?
Lastly, would you guys bother getting the wheels refinished? I got a couple quotes ranging from $175-$225/wheel. I would like them to be perfect though at somepoint I have to come to terms with the fact that this is a 7 year old car w/ 89K miles on it...
#13
Welcome, very nice ride. I just joined the club last year. I would change the transfer case fluid with the OEM fluid and see it that corrects the clunk. under $50.00 and 15 min.
2nd the hill hold feature
Do wheels if its curb rash i fixed mine to an 8 out of 10 with light sanding the several coats of clear. from 1' it looks like a repair but way better than before from 5' imperceptible.PM if you need help. the pricing seems about right for refinishing.
I have 164,000 on the ODO. "11 958TT
2nd the hill hold feature
Do wheels if its curb rash i fixed mine to an 8 out of 10 with light sanding the several coats of clear. from 1' it looks like a repair but way better than before from 5' imperceptible.PM if you need help. the pricing seems about right for refinishing.
I have 164,000 on the ODO. "11 958TT
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