Conversation Between pwdrhound and ffwd20

Sorry, I'm not sure about the PSM deal with the GT3 master

John. In reference to my previous question about mushy brake pedal, do you know if anyone has found a way to run GT3 27mm master cylinder, without tripping PSM light, short of disconnecting PSM?

I merely moved calipers aside without disconnecting, and used a Motive pressure bleeder wth new fluid, bleeding the outer outer bleed screw first.
I installed 350mm slotted Girodisks in the front and drilled Sebro's in the rear. Could the floating design of the Girodisks have any effect?
Would swapping to a 996 GT3 master cylinder help?
Andy

Did you remove the calipers / disconnect the hydraulic likes during the swap. If not than there is no reason to have a soft pedal due to air in the system unless you ran the reservoir low during bleeding and introduced some air into the system? How are you bleeding the brakes? Make sure you ALWAYS bleed the outer part of the caliper first and then the inner.

John.

Hi John,
I have another question. Recently. after installing 350mm front and rear rotors with caliper spacers on my '02 TT, I noticed lengthy and mushy brake pedal travel (2-3 in.)
Several brake fluid flushes did not help.
Do you have any ideas what might be causing this? The engine was out recently to pin coolant pipes, install BBi slave with GT3 spring pack, GT3 Cup dipstick, and EVOMs ducts.
Thanks
Andy

Correct

Ok, got it. So, running just the new rear bar with the stock front would have the opposite effect of what you are recommending.

Many thanks, John

Andy

Ok, so GMG bars are 3 way adjustable. Got it. The GT3 bars I run are 5 way front and 4 way rear. With the GMG, start full stiff in the front and soft or medium in the rear. Adjust the rear from there. Note that you will always have some push in tight turns. Increasing your front camber to -2 or beyond will help with front end bite. I would also fit a 235 or 245 front tire. You need to elevate your minimum speed through the turn by trail braking aggressively all the way to the apex and deleting the application of power until you start unwinding the steering wheel on turn exit. Patience is key in these cars...

John..

Thanks John. The GMG bar settings are Front 20/35/50 and Rear 35/50/65 stiffness increase over stock. I have done DE's for many years, and love to trail brake. I use the car 60/40 track/street. With the stock bars, the car had significant push in tight turns.
I was thinking of initially just running with new rear bar installed set on full soft, which is 35% stiffer than stock. What do you think?
Andy

Hi Andy,
I'm not familiar with the settings on the GMG bars. I generally recommend the OEM GT3 bars but the front will not work with the FWD system. With that said, on the GMGs, as any adjustable sways, I would start with the front bar at full stiff or one hole from full stiff and the rear bar at neutral or one hole from full soft. I would then drive the car and adjust the rear bar to suit your needs. Going stiff in the front will initially make the car safer and also negate the inherent softness of the H&R street coil over springs. If you are an advanced level driver and trail brake aggressively you will probably end up with a relatively soft setting in the the rear. If you mainly do straight line braking and tend to drive through the turn under power, you will likely end up going stiffer in the rear. '

Hope that helps,
John...