wonderful write up, i am very new to detailing, i just purchased the pc kit with 4 pads and 4 different products. i have 3 questions right now.

1- to clean the pads, how in the world to i properly clean the pads and how often do i clean them?
2- how much product do i use each time i apply the buffer to the vehicle?
3- lastly in your write up it stats take your time, is there a rule of thumb on how long to work the product into the paint before turning up the speed, and when you turn it up to do the correction what am i looking for to know when its time to stop and remove the product or i should say when do i know its done its job more or less??

hope that made some sence, thankyou for your time and the write up.

 

1. You should clean the pads AT LEAST after every detail. Sometimes before if they "gum up" and start spitting polish everywhere. That's when you know to clean them . If not, once you your done. You clean them by using a pad cleaner, I have some old Pinnacle XMT Pad Cleaner and you spray it on, scrub it, rinse, scrub, rinse. Then put the pad back on the PC and spin it up to about 5 and wait 'till it stops spitting water. Take it off the backing plate, wring it out, repeat but take a mf towel and put friction against the pad while it's spinning to make sure you get as much moisture as possible off the pad .
2- With the PC and about a 2'x2' section 4 dime sized dots on the pad. Or you can go in an "X" across the pad. I find that I get better coverage with the "x" instead of dots.
3-There is no rule of thumb on how long to work a product because every polish will react differently with each car depending on weather, clear coat, etc. A good technique is to draw the "X" on the pad, then spread it in the 2'x2' area, and put the pc on speed 3, spread it evenly accross the section of the panel *usually one back and forth pass and one up-down pass will do. Then turn it up to speed 5-6 and work it until the polish turns from a white cloud, to a more translucent cloud,that's when you'll know it's broken down. If you feel like you've been working it a while, stop, and buff it off. You'll know if you didn't work it long enough because it'll be harder to buff off the residue by hand then when it's broken down fully.

Good luck, and don't forget to post up results! PM me with any questions if you wish

 

here you go take a look at these videos they may help you out.

PC videos

You can use the above method of cleaning your pads, here is another one.

Grit Guard Pad Washer

Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

im just starting out detailing, can you recommend some lines of products for me ranging from extreme correction on swirls and oxidation and water marks, to very light and minimul correction, to a gloss and then a final sealent ( i believe its called) basically from beginning to end. This will be a hobby for fun and maybe making a few bucks hear and there off of friends and neighbors on occasion so i want good products. thankyou sir.

My test vehicle is my play toy a 1988 toyota pickup with 207,000 miles, stock paint, 6 inchs of lift on her and its a mess with swirls, scratches, hard water spots and other oxidation and what not. so i will be posting my progress on that bad boy.

 

I don't have the money for a water dionizer but I like the idea of getting pure water out of my hose.

Is there a simple filter system I can use?

I shot the Mr Clean Auto Wash with my CZ52.

 

Welcome aboard! Get ready to get addicted!

Here's a "short" list to start off with. Now, you need to learn how to use a rotary, because you just can't get the correction you would need/want out of a PC if oxidation/heavy swirls are involved, especially on cermiclear paint!

1. Makita 9227 rotary
2. Menzerna SIP
3. Menzerna 106fa
4. Menzerna PO85rd
5. Lusso oro
6. 1z glanz wax (there are better sealants out there, but this is assuming you'll by directly from DD)
7. About 10-20 DD uber MF towels
8. About 2-3 UBER drying towels
9. Two buckets with grit guards
10. Genuine sheepskin mitt
11. A variety of pads in 6.5" and 5.5" pads: preferably Orange, White, Black, and Blue 2-3 of each
12. 2 PFW pads
13. Optimum Car Wash

That will take care of the entire outside of the car. Now if you need a full list for EVERYTHING including interior, wheels, engine bay, etc. I can do that for you, just let me know! Again, all this stuff can be had at DD as well.

Good luck and post up any questions!

 

I believe wall-mounted units can be had for around $100 or so. You could try googling it, I'm sure there's other alternatives besides CR Spotless . But you could look into the CR Spotless DIC-10. I believe it's only around $250? Not too bad. I just got my DIC-20 and can't wait to use it!

 

What do you recommend for cab tops?

 

I don't know of anything else that will give you the same results.

You can try to find a used one they are out there. But of course you risk the chance of getting a bad one.

 

RAGGTOPP FABRIC AND VINYL CLEANER followed by

RAGGTOPP PROTECTION ( You will need to figure out if you have a fabric top or vinyl top.)

 

LMK if you have any other questions.

 

current sale:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...iday-sale.html

 

Why the Uber Microfibre towels ??
Are there any kind of comparisons comparing the different types of microfibre towels?

 

we test our towels.

not all towels are created equal.

we try to get the best possible ones that we can.

before I brought this container of towels in we tested out about 30 towels plus towels.

 

Do you recommend soaking bumpers and other nasty spots with TAW before washing if I have some crud on there I can't get off with my regular soap? Mind you I haven't purchased the foam gun because I feel like I'm going to go through too much soap...

Also anything special you can recommend for keeping the car protected in winter or any changes for washing the car? I will try to wash salt/crap off as much as possible, wondering if there is something more to do.

I'm going to try to do one new layer of sealant before it's too late, but it may be already...