Hoosier R6 Tire Questions
Hoosier R6 Tire Questions
I have always had my Hoosier R6 tires balanced when mounted on my track wheels. This weekend at the local PCA DE I had a guy tell me it was not necessary and was actually a waste of money to have your track tires balanced due to the amount of rubber that sticks to the inside of the wheel. Anyone have any thoughts or input on this? Also we had a lively discussion about tire pressure. I'm at 31 front cold and 33 rear cold...heating up to mid to high 40's. The debate was that going to a higher pressure would extend life with no significant grip loss.
I run R6's and start the pressure at 27F+R cold. I am for about 36 hot.
As for balancing, I get it done for free so it doesn't bother me to have it done, however quite often my balancing weights will fall of from the heat (even with aluminum vent tape over top), and I don't notice much (if any) vibration, as my speed isn't constant.
As for balancing, I get it done for free so it doesn't bother me to have it done, however quite often my balancing weights will fall of from the heat (even with aluminum vent tape over top), and I don't notice much (if any) vibration, as my speed isn't constant.
Tire manufacturers often recommend a pressure slightly higher than the level which optimizes grip, to maintain stiffer sidewalls and reduce the likelihood of tire failure.
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What he said.... ^^^^^ By HOT they mean take the pressures the instant you get off the track.. If you wait for 45 seconds, you will see a lower pressure reading by a couple of pounds.
+1. I adjust to 36 all around aiming for 38-40 on the track. By time I'm adjusting in the paddock they've cooled a few degrees.
Quote:
Originally Posted by schillster1@aol
I just started running R6's. I was told by a experienced driver that balancing is necessary but the Porsche balancing is not.
What does that mean?
When you take the car to an authorized Porsche dealership they balance your tires using "Road force balancing". It costs anywhere from $100-200+. I've been told for track purposes to just get them balanced at a normal tire store.
Originally Posted by schillster1@aol
I just started running R6's. I was told by a experienced driver that balancing is necessary but the Porsche balancing is not.
What does that mean?
When you take the car to an authorized Porsche dealership they balance your tires using "Road force balancing". It costs anywhere from $100-200+. I've been told for track purposes to just get them balanced at a normal tire store.
Road Force, haha.
That system is only good for identifying problems with rims and, or tires. It doesn't give a better balance unless there is a problem and the wheel/tire needs to be indexed. Indexing DOES reduce the amount of weight required but if they're charging you $100-200 to balance, ask them to lube it up first please.
On the topic of the hoosiers, they've done alot of research with Porsche specifically. Call hoosier directly and talk to them. They recommended I run 34-36 hot in front and 36-38 in back. They emphasized that this was a STARTING point. Also worth mentioning that I'm using the 19" tires.
Mooty makes a very good point that track surfaces and driving styles vary and a pyrometer is really the only way to be sure. Pyrometer should be used on NEW tires to evaluate setup. The older the tires become the less viable the pyrometer results because the tires have 'worn' into the setup.
*disclaimer* This is just based on my research.
That system is only good for identifying problems with rims and, or tires. It doesn't give a better balance unless there is a problem and the wheel/tire needs to be indexed. Indexing DOES reduce the amount of weight required but if they're charging you $100-200 to balance, ask them to lube it up first please.

On the topic of the hoosiers, they've done alot of research with Porsche specifically. Call hoosier directly and talk to them. They recommended I run 34-36 hot in front and 36-38 in back. They emphasized that this was a STARTING point. Also worth mentioning that I'm using the 19" tires.
Mooty makes a very good point that track surfaces and driving styles vary and a pyrometer is really the only way to be sure. Pyrometer should be used on NEW tires to evaluate setup. The older the tires become the less viable the pyrometer results because the tires have 'worn' into the setup.
*disclaimer* This is just based on my research.
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