I might be off, However, i had a 7.2 RS at the track last week with that same problem. We found that the pressure plate was starting to fail. One of the rivets that hold the three springs had sheered. Replaced the PP and things are all good again. Could just have been a different prob all together but this sounds close.

kindest

 

Wow -- that's certainly cause for concern. Unfortunately, the only way to check this is by visual inspection of the clutch/pressure plate, right?

 

I have a recently purchased 08 GT2 with only 80 miles on it and it too has a clunky feel to the shifter. I just got out of an 08 TT and the shifting is totally different. Does anyone know if the actual type of gears are different in the GT2 and GT3 from the other cars?
My car almost feels like it had different cut gears. There is not a real grinding but rather an extra click when engaging different gears and it does take extra effort to make the shift. This happens even when the trans is warm.

 

6400 miles now, a bit notchy when cold, have only felt or heard grinding once. Smooth when warm though mechanical resistance is high compared to 6gt3.

 

this is the 4th 2010RS with this prob.

 

I have had my 997.2 GT3 since last February, never had any shifting issues or noises.

Just like how I treat all of my cars, when my GT3 is cold (not just engine termperature, but also the oil temperature of the engine & gearbox); I take it easy on shifting, and I give a little blip of throttle to rev match the shift, even when I am upshifting.

Depending on the weahther, the engine/gearbox oil temperature might take a few miles of driving (or a full warm up lap on track) to fully warm up.

Regards,

 

I have a .2 3 and experience notchy shifting when cold which is completely normal. I think they all do that. Even the manual details this. When I say cold I mean even a 65 degree F cool morning. As we all know you want to allow for the oil temp to rise above 160-170 F before any hard inputs (I wait until > 180 F), but you also want to wait until the other mechanicals warm up. Granted by the time the oil temp gets to 180 F the rest will likely be warm too.

Like Mooty said there is no need to shift fast. The shifts should be deliberate but not fast nor forced. When cold, you should also allow for a few extra milliseconds once depressing the clutch pedal and before executing the subseqent shift to help avoid any grinding and/or resistance. It is like a rifle bolt; very mechanical but precise, especially when warm . I do not experience any grinding. Imo, if you are you need to adhere to the above.

 

I test drove your black GT3 before you bought it last week. I drove a 997 Gt3 for 4 years prior and put 44,000 miles on the car. I can tell you without any reservations that your black GT3 was shifting perfectly. The dealer knows how to contact me if you have any questions. Also, would be more than happy to take you to the track with our local PCA chapter. We'd love to have more local guys at the track.

 

Great -- just sent you PM. Thx.

 

I have 07 GT3. Have had moments on the track hitting third both up and down. Talked to tech and everything checked out. Last weekend downshifting from 4 to 3, and got first. Broke pulley extension. Analysis showed 9,800 for 6 revolutions. Going to open the motor to check extent of damage. Anyone with similar experience? Been driving porches for 30 years and know how to shift. Thanks

 

It all sounds normal.
ON LWFW RS cars seem to blow clutches and pressure plates.
I shift very slow also on track (See video's), or it will crack and grind.

 

It will shift better if you run the RPM's up, don't try to short shift it. As as stated before, slow your shift down. It will smooth out.

 

My 10 gt3 loves to be shifted with patience and not forcefully. I always warm the car/tires up before driving it like it was meant to be driven. after it warms up it is easier to shift. Best balanced car on the road. Love the feel/ sound and driving experience. Only would chang two things: the wart on the dash and the center lugs, other than that, great car.

 

Mr GTGEARS please join our thread, I think he is at daytona testing

 

Hello,
I've been back for a day but had to give priority to business inquiries made in my absence before I hopped back on the forums.

I think the direction PJS took things is the right vein of thinking on this. The only thing I would add is don't under-rev your engine during the "warm up" period of the drive. I see this all the time, with guys shifting at 5000rpm or less until they are at full temp. You've fully circulated oil and started to bring it up to temp in the engine during the first 3-5 minutes of driving. Once you've done that, your gearbox will like you better if you shift at 7000rpm or so.

When you shift at too low of an rpm, because of the change in ratios, the synchros end up having to speed up the idler gear instead of slowing it down. Getting it up to a higher speed where the synchro does less work will make it smoother when it's cold. I haven't driven enough GT3s, with all the different gearing variations between 996, 997 and RS variants to tell you the exact shift point, but if you shift at the right rpms, the synchros don't have to do pretty much any work because you've spun the gear up to faster than the free spinning shaft such that as the rpms drop while the clutch is engaged, you'll just slide right into gear.

I don't say this to brag, but I could take any one of your cars and within 15 minutes be shifting it on the upshift 100% clutchless. When you rev to the right rpms and hit the spinning speed of the gears right, the synchros don't have to do any work and the gear will engage even if the clutch was never unloaded. Now, don't try this at home, but the point is that you can, and should, learn to find the sweet spot for each gear with respect to how many rpms to rev to before you pull it from 1-2 and from 2-3. All the old 915 guys know that number is around 4500rpm on the 1-2 shift. On the modern cars it's going to be much higher. But with a little practice and feel you can find that sweet spot so that even cold, you are driving the car in such a way that there's no grinding and in fact you are minimizing the wear on your synchros at the same time, thus extending the life between rebuilds.

It's like that common complaint that making a 1-2 shift at redline crunches. The change in ratio on 1-2 is so large that redline rpms overspins 2nd gear and if one is doing 1/4 mile type pulls with it, you'll crunch if you don't give it that extra micro-second pause to let the gear slow down just a little bit on it's own intertia before you try to pull it into gear and put the synchros to work. Make sense?

As for the failure Mooty mentions? I know of two here in Colorado. One got warranty coverage, the other guy got told to **** off by the dealer and recently had his gearbox rebuilt on his own dime because the failure broke the case and took out the ring and pinion. I suspect we're going to see a few more of these in the future. But I don't think that's the case in this particular scenario, especially given sasportas' comments.