On the street and low speeds it's just fine except for one thing.
As you come to a complete stop you must go down each gear to 1st.
Can not do as with an H-pattern, come to a stop say in 5th then at the stoplight put it in 1st.
If you gently downshift the auto-blips aren't so loud .

\m/

 

Ok, what the procedure to get to first if you forget or spin and stall in a higher gear?

Like to hear the throttle blips, any drive-by clips?

Thanks
Jay

 

Jay you would just push the shifter forward until you get to 1st gear.
It's shown on the digital display on the steering column.

\m/

 

Hi All
I have the same shifter on my GT3 and yes on the street there is the pain/issue of having to always work all the way up then all the way down the box one way or the other.

Being RHD I cant have the blipper and still have to do that job myself

That said, never a missed shift nor the worry of missing a shift keeps greater focus on track position

I love mine and wouldnt remove it

regards

Mike

 

I'll help keep the thread going a little bit with some sneak peaks...

Here's a general idea of some new exciting things going on with this project.

 

Champion,

Interesting, are those bored out throttle valves lurking in the back ground?

Modoz, do you know why having a RHD car eliminates the throttle blip function?

 

Hi Jay
The blipper is a mechanical linkage developed by AutoQuest and for LHD
the linkage is all solid links and for our side of the car these would need to pass behind the clutch and brake pedals, so a bit more research needed to get it to work perhaps with cable as part of the assembly
I am debating as to whether or not develop something based on their intial works, on one hand it lends itself to consistency on the other a little less involvement so its a head versus heart decision

regards

Mike

 

Mike,

If you make it heart and make it work, let us know, there are a few of us here that may be interested!

Suprised they [AutoQuest] didn't make it electronic. If I go this route I might get my mechatronic guys to take a look!

Cheers
Jay

Jay

 

\m/

 

Keyser,

I don't want to teach champion to suck eggs but have they tried to do a vacuum differential test on the induction system? A motorcycle balance gauge set is ideal for this (multi cylinder/gauge set). They would need to make various small tapings in the manifold etc and then look for differencesin vacuum 'pull'... a difference is a possible restriction...might reduce the R&D on this.
Jay

 

Jay,
You know your stuff my friend.

\m/

 

This whole thread is a great read. Thank you Champion and everyone for your comments. Great way to start my day each morning

 

Any update?

 

amazing car

 

OK....update time! A lot exciting stuff is happening with this project over the past month or two. Sorry I've been so bad about updating but with all the projects we've had going on it's been hard to post as regularly as I'd like.

So...to recap. Life as a 4.2L has been great for this RS. After a few months of track use and normal daily driving, we decided to push a little further and are in the process of updating the engine with OEM GT3RS 4.0 intake manifolds and new cams. The goal with these new upgrades it to reach over 500hp at the wheels...which should be no problem since we're already so close.

Anyhow...here's a few photos of the process underway. Apologies in advance for the not-so-stellar quality.

In this picture you can see the 4.0L intakes being matched to the already ported/polished heads. Lots of slow work that takes TONS of patience and attention to detail!


To give you an idea how much bigger the 4.0L intake is...this is the amount of material that was taken away in order to match the port size.


And the finished product...meticulously matched and ready to go!




Now, with our new cam profile it was very important to measure clearance between the piston and valves. To do this we basically built a fixture that would allow us to look at a cut-away of the piston/valve clearance with the head installed. Started by cutting away part of a piston and cylinder and creating a "window" that would allow us to look in and measure clearance. Clearance was measured to about .005" so now we know how to fix the tolerances.




And in these pics, you can see through our "window" into the piston/valve clearance which helped us machine the appropriate valve pockets for the right amount of clearance.




We should hopefully have the engine back together and in the car very soon! Next up...I'll have some REALLY cool info about a custom made clutch pack we are building for this car. And when I say custom made...I mean custom made...as in...from scratch!!

Stay tuned....