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Well I now have quite a selection to choose from for my needs.
315/35/18 toyo tq drag radial
325/30/19 re-11. (Street setup)
335/30/18 rival s (track)
also have 275/35/18 rival s for track now
actually fairly suprise how wide the 335 run. They are about 3/4 inch wider than the 325s.
have to make a few suspension changes here so I can quickly change setups and use spacers to correct for fender flushness. 5, 8, 12, 15mm spacers all at the ready lol.
I'm working towards running a 275/335-18 setup. The FRads have been moved fwd 1" and fenders are rolled. Currently looking for some adj. front LCA's.
It would be helpful to know how much F&R - camber, ride height, spring rate you are running to get enough clearance for track cornering and braking loads.
I have not mounted the 275 up front yet but will tonight. I know everything fits just have to make a few adjustments.
I'm going to run 1.8 camber in the rear and 2.2 in the front. I have powerflex adjustable inner lca bushing to push the bottom out some. Will be running only rear liners covers in the back to cover intercooler. Front is modded but doing more and will be running only a partical front and rear section with the middle open
I'm running the 275/335 NT01s. They are very wide with the front and rear tire cross section of 11/14". Most other brands will be narrower. I know when I tried fitting the NT01s on 9/12s, they were simply too pinched, especially the 275s. Fitting will greatly depend on ride height. A higher ride height will obviously make it easier to fit as the tires have a lot more room to tuck under the fender.
I'm at 100/122 which is relatively low, about 1/2" below GT2 height. Assuming running 9.5/12.5 or 10/13 wheels, at a similar height, in the front the upper mounts will need to flipped and camber in excess of -3.0 will generally be needed to get enough clearance under compression at the track. Flipping the upper mounts in order to push the wheel assembly as far inboard as possible helps create the fender clearance required. One has to consider not only compression with wheels straight ahead but also the needed clearance when wheels are slightly turned. For example, my fenders are rolled razor sharp and my upper mounts are flipped pushing the strut an additional 14mm further in. I actually had to grind out the tub to get clearance for the rebound adjusters as pictured below. When this is done, installing a steering angle limiter is helpful as the tire at max steering angles will now contact the coolant pipes / brake ducting on the inside of the wheel well.
Getting this to work for cars and coffee and street use is thing. Getting it to work without interference issues under heavy track use is another as the suspension will be subjected to much greater loads and compression.
Freddy, when you wear out the Rivals, you might consider the NT01s which are generally praised for track day use while working pretty well on the street if temps are warm. Rivals are a 200 tread wear summer street tires and won't give you the performance of an R compound. Good luck with the set up.
I'm running the 275/335 NT01s. They are very wide with the front and rear tire cross section of 11/14". Most other brands will be narrower. Fitting will greatly depend on ride height. A higher ride height will obviously make it easier to fit as the tires have a lot more room to tuck under the fender.
I'm at 100/122 which is relatively low, about 1/2" below GT2 height. Assuming you are running 9.5/12.5 or 10/13 wheels (I would not run 275s on a 9" wheel as it's simply too pinched), at a similar height, in the front you will need to flip the upper mounts and camber in excess of -3.0 will generally be needed to get enough clearance under compression at the track. You need to flip the upper mounts in order to push the wheel assembly as far inboard as possible to give you the fender clearance required. For example, my fenders are rolled razor sharp and my upper mounts are flipped pushing the strut an additional 14mm further in. I actually had to grind out the tub to get clearance for the rebound adjusters as pictured below. When you do this, you will also need to install a steering angle limiter as the tire at max steering angles will now contact the coolant pipes / brake ducting on the inside of the wheel well.
Getting this to work for cars and coffee and heavy track use are two different stories as the suspension will be subjected to much greater compression under heavy track use.
Freddy, when you wear out the Rivals, you might consider the NT01s which are generally praised for track day use while working pretty well on the street if temps are warm. Rivals are a 200 tread wear summer street tires and won't give you the performance of an R compound. Good luck with the set up.
ya John they are 18x10 and 18x12. 13 in the tea would be better but got a great deal on the cow slightly used. They clear the 380mm front brakes so it was a win.
ya running the rivals because they keep me in street class when racing. Car isn't hardcore enough to be competitive running against the straight track guys so running the 200tw instead of 100 for me is a good thing even known it will be slower.
I think I'm going to be able to fit a little easier than your set up John. My right height is higher and with my only partical liners it gives me a lot more spacer. Also rolled and pulled fenders a lot. Not to worried. I do need to go to better coilovers though. That may be a mid year thing. My bill for the motor, trans, turbos, wheels and tires, and all the other stuff for pretty big. Good couplers are 4-5k so I'll have to wait a bit here.
ya John they are 18x10 and 18x12. 13 in the tea would be better but got a great deal on the cow slightly used. They clear the 380mm front brakes so it was a win.
ya running the rivals because they keep me in street class when racing. Car isn't hardcore enough to be competitive running against the straight track guys so running the 200tw instead of 100 for me is a good thing even known it will be slower.
I think I'm going to be able to fit a little easier than your set up John. My right height is higher and with my only partical liners it gives me a lot more spacer. Also rolled and pulled fenders a lot. Not to worried. I do need to go to better coilovers though. That may be a mid year thing. My bill for the motor, trans, turbos, wheels and tires, and all the other stuff for pretty big. Good couplers are 4-5k so I'll have to wait a bit here.
Excellent... Yea, ride height makes a huge difference in fitment. Even a 1/2" higher provided a huuuuge difference.
Very good thread, looking for some real acceleration data on each tire as changing the diameter should net higher acceleration if having good grip, 335/30-18 vs 315/35-18 would be interesting to see
Very good thread, looking for some real acceleration data on each tire as changing the diameter should net higher acceleration if having good grip, 335/30-18 vs 315/35-18 would be interesting to see
ya the added height offers more mph per gear. Also the 315 are drag radials so will probabaly have the most grip.
here are some pics with the 275 up front. Added my adjustable lca bushing here to move.the bottom out about 1/4 of and inch. Need to camber the top in just a bit more and will be fine.
did have to add a 3mm spacer though to clear the coilover. Fronts are 10+48 so say a little to far in. Looks like it all going to work though.
04-22-2017, 08:12 AM
