How do I stop my rear shocks from rotating from the swaybar bracket???
#1
How do I stop my rear shocks from rotating from the swaybar bracket???
I know this may seem like a silly issue, but my car has coils with monoballs on both ends and it feels like my rear swaybar is rotating the shock body via the bracket rotating when the sway is being loaded. Is their a bracket angle or setup to avoid this? I just aligned the brackets so that the link mount holes were aligned directly with the sway bar hole with the shock end bearing centered and not rotates one way or another.
#6
Since you're on sphericals, you mean the shock will rotate on the spherical bearings 30 degrees or so? I wonder if that is an issue?
I feel this cannot be fixed without incorporating different style upper or lower mount to prevent rotation.
I feel this cannot be fixed without incorporating different style upper or lower mount to prevent rotation.
#7
Originally Posted by r0nd3L
Since you're on sphericals, you mean the shock will rotate on the spherical bearings 30 degrees or so? I wonder if that is an issue?
I feel this cannot be fixed without incorporating different style upper or lower mount to prevent rotation.
I feel this cannot be fixed without incorporating different style upper or lower mount to prevent rotation.
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#8
Found something. Perhaps reach out to Elephant Racing. They seem to have something available to lock out the shock rotationally.
http://www.elephantracing.com/docume...oduct-expo.htm
http://www.elephantracing.com/docume...oduct-expo.htm
#9
If you have the Cup shocks you should have a bushing (996.333.565.9A) on either side of the spherical bearing. I've never heard of any complaints similar to yours but I am guessing these will allow a certain amount of shock rotation by their design. On the Cup cars this is probably not much of a problem as the car is light with heavy springs which limits how much suspension movement you have. On my rear shocks, JRZ uses a design where the bushings on either side of the spherical bearing is much larger and is sandwiched between the shock pin mount and the wheel carrier thus preventing the shock from rotating. There is still a tiny amount of movement +/- about 1mm or so to allow the spherical bearing to work but that's it.
In my opinion, the only way to battle the movement you are seeing is to make sure when your suspension is loaded that the drop links are attached to the brackets at as close to a 90º angle as possible. This will minimize any kind of torquing of the shock by the drop link as the suspension deflects. The other option would be to have some custom bushings machined similar to that of the JRZ design. If you can measure the ID and width of the spherical bearing, I can check to if it matches the JRZ bearing. In the off chance they are the same you could use the JRZ parts which I have in stock.
In my opinion, the only way to battle the movement you are seeing is to make sure when your suspension is loaded that the drop links are attached to the brackets at as close to a 90º angle as possible. This will minimize any kind of torquing of the shock by the drop link as the suspension deflects. The other option would be to have some custom bushings machined similar to that of the JRZ design. If you can measure the ID and width of the spherical bearing, I can check to if it matches the JRZ bearing. In the off chance they are the same you could use the JRZ parts which I have in stock.
Last edited by pwdrhound; 04-26-2017 at 11:35 AM.
#10
Originally Posted by pwdrhound
If you have the Cup shocks you should have a bushing (996.333.565.9A) on either side of the spherical bearing. These will allow a certain amount of shock rotation by their design which in my opinion is less than ideal. On the 996Cup this is probably not much of a problem as the car is light with heavy springs which limits how much suspension movement you have. On my rear shocks, JRZ uses a much better design where the bushings on either side of the spherical bearing is much larger and is sandwiched between the shock pin mount and the wheel carrier thus preventing the shock from rotating. There is still a tiny amount of movement +/- about 1mm or so to allow the spherical bearing to work but that's it.
In my opinion, the only way to battle the movement you are seeing is to make sure when your suspension is loaded that the drop links are attached to the brackets at as close to a 90º angle as possible. This will minimize any kind of torquing of the shock by the drop link as the suspension deflects. The other option would be to have some custom bushings machined similar to that of the JRZ design. If you can measure the ID and width of the spherical bearing, I can check to if it matches the JRZ bearing. In the off chance they are the same you could use the JRZ parts which I have in stock.
In my opinion, the only way to battle the movement you are seeing is to make sure when your suspension is loaded that the drop links are attached to the brackets at as close to a 90º angle as possible. This will minimize any kind of torquing of the shock by the drop link as the suspension deflects. The other option would be to have some custom bushings machined similar to that of the JRZ design. If you can measure the ID and width of the spherical bearing, I can check to if it matches the JRZ bearing. In the off chance they are the same you could use the JRZ parts which I have in stock.
#12
In theory, and I'm just looking at this quick, couldn't you just put another locknut against the bottom one and the shock won't be able to move at all.
As above stated, when loaded up, under tension and attached perpendicular, it seems it will only torque itself and move just a little bit which IMO no big deal.
As above stated, when loaded up, under tension and attached perpendicular, it seems it will only torque itself and move just a little bit which IMO no big deal.