I lowered my car with a set of KW V3s. I have been reading extensively to try to learn more about setting up the suspension and upgrading the right parts. So far I have the V3s with the car set to GT3 ride height, H&R sways front and rear with Tarrett drop links. I've read many people end up buying adjustable toe links and the tarrett locking plate kit for the rear. The reasoning seems to be, under load, the alignment gets out of spec and ends up tearing up the inside edge of the rear tires. Also there seems to be some concern about longevity and things breaking on track.

I spend 4 weekends a year at watkins glen, as I'm slowly trying to learn how to really drive this thing... how do I decide if I should be adding rear toe links now... or wait... my alignment post coilover install was within spec... but obviously I don't want to break something or destroy tires needlessly

Thanks for the help

 

I just lowered my car to GT2 height with H&R springs. i was unable to get the proper toe and camber at the same time. So i set the camber to the minimum i could get at -1.3 deg and then i installed the Elephant racing eccentric bushings in my existing toe arms to make them shorter and allow me to adjust my toe properly (to get enough toe out). The eccentric bushings work but the adjustable toe arms would be better and easier to adjust. I had considerable difference between side to side and was just barely able to get it all in spec. With adjustable toe ares it would have no problem.

 

I'm happy with my torque solution arms.

 

I've got Tarett locking plates going with Porsche Motorsport 997 RSR toe links; I trust the Porsche part to hold up to any track use I can throw at it and last a long time.

 

Where do you buy Motorsports parts?

 

I'm about to replace my PSS10's with Ohlins R&T's mainly because i can't get the PSS10's where I want them to be ride height wise.

Curious to see how alignment comes out without doing toe links or dog bones first.

 

I can post mine up later.

 

just for internet record: YOU DO NOT NEED TOE LINKS TO LOWER YOUR 996
rear tire wear is cured by solid LCA thrust bushings and inner LCA monoballs

 

If you are really low you do need them, at least that is what I was lead to believe.

 

you have to be a full-race/ stance-nation level to be out of range... if you have a 996 with usable travel/height, stock works... I align them...
that said, I have Champion Motorsport toe-link (RSR/Motorsport copy) and my own 'custom' eccentric deletes, but they are not needed whatsoever

 

Where do I buy these...

 

There are MANY options for both in various varieties of price point, you do not need adjustable rear thrust bushings (single hole/centred are perfect)
stock rear LCA with non-adjustable solid thrust arm bushings and inner monoball inserts and you're set...no need to over-mod
plenty of options out there, including some from RL/6SO members

 

I'll be searching in the am. Any members here with these to sell feel free to pm me

 

someone, like 'TheDeckMan' -Noah makes some nice CNC'd stuff...

 

I'm not here to debate whether this, that or the other is needed. Member Mikelly had several very interesting and informative posts here 8-9 years ago. Here are a couple related to your questions.

Check out these links

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...es-budget.html

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...lets-chat.html

I followed his advice, went with the rear adjustable dog bones that I made and installed. I have KWV1 coilovers and originally lowered my car 2" all around. I used a rear adj sway bar, did a quickie driveway alignment myself, tested to 130 MPH and it seemed fine, hands off the wheel for a couple of seconds, nothing stupid. I had my alignment guy dial it in perfect. I then found it too low raised it up 1/4- 1/2". I've played with the ride height a bit.