Aston Martin DB7, DB9, DBS, Vantage V8, Vanquish, and Classic models

DESPERATE!!! 2011 Vantage S DSC Service Required / Traction Control Temporarily Off

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Old 11-04-2018, 12:52 AM
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DESPERATE!!! 2011 Vantage S DSC Service Required / Traction Control Temporarily Off

Good Evening, I have been having issues with my 2011 V8 Vantage S for a year and a half now and no one can seem to fix it. Hoping I can get some information from someone here.

For starters my Vantage is my daily driver. I bought her with 44k miles and she now has 58k miles. As were all new Vantage S models mine has the ASM2! Here’s my issue.

While driving I will randomly get warnings of DSC SERVICE REQUIRED immediately follow by TRACTION CONTROL TEMPORARILY OFF. At first this was all that would happen. I could stop the car, restart and all would be normal. As time went on this was occurring more frequently.

Eventually, when this would occur, I would get a line that appears in my gear indicator. When this happens I am unable to change gears. I can’t use the paddles nor can I put it into drive with the D button. I also am unable to shift into neutral or reverse. The car will stay in the same gear until the revs fall too low and I’m automatically shifted into neutral.

At first I could restart the car and everything would be normal again. After happening a couple times the car would not restart. If the line was still in the gear indicator the car doesn’t even start. Usually if I wait long enough the car will eventually restart and be normal again. Sometimes this would happen again a few miles down the road sometimes it wouldn’t happen for a few days.

On top of all this on more than one occasion once this happens, I’ll also get the Check Battery Off Switch, TPMS and then the whole dash shuts off. After a couple minutes these seem to go away. It’s my understanding that the newer Vantages no longer have a battery off switch in the trunk like the older ones did. When the battery warning comes on I can not start the car either.

The closest AM dealer to me is about an hour and a half drive. Because of the distance I took the car into a reputable independent shop that works on high end cars. They diagnosed it as a bad ABS control module. Almost $2k later I picked her up drove off and the same day the warnings came back.

Highly displeased I made an appointment with the AM dealer. After 2.5 weeks of “diagnosing fees” they say they found the issue. A loose wire to the Transmission ECU. After paying them $1800 to fix a wire, I picked it up again. A week to the day, same issues again.

I then took the car to another independent shop in LA that had previous experience working on my car before I bought it. First off, the found a bad wire. Sure enough it was the wire that AM “fixed”! This shop rebuilt the whole wiring harness for me but that still didn’t fix the issue. They said it was the transmission ecu itself that was bad. They replaced it. Total bill there was a few grand. Btw this shop had installed a new clutch days before I bought the car. So at this point the clutch was a couple months old. Thinking there may have been a clutch issue they pulled the transmission to verify and it was just fine.

Picked the car up and the warnings came back on during the drive home. The independant shop owner then called a buddy of his who is a mechanic for an Aston Martin Racing team. With the symptoms relayed to him, he was sure it was the throttlebody as he replaces them all the time on the Vantage GT4’s.

I bought and installed a new Bosch throttlebody as well as 4 new wheel speed sensors. Those didn’t work either. Before it’s asked, I also installed a brand new battery.

Im at the breaking point. I’ve had three indy’s as well as AM look at this car and no one can tell me wants wrong.

On top of all this when it does occur and leaves me stranded on the side of the road, there is one thing that “cures” it for a short while and that is time. If I just let the car sit it will eventually clear and start like normal. Sometimes it clears immediately, sometimes 5 min, sometimes it takes an hour plus!

I still daily this car despite the issues and have been able to put almost 15k miles on it in 17 months of ownership despite being in and out for shops for a solid total of 4.5 months.

There is no particular type of driving that causes it either. It’s happened sitting at idle, 35 mph in the city, cruising on the highway and accelerating hard.

I want to be able to fully enjoy the car. I’m afraid everytime I take her on long road trips. I would like to be able to track my car as well but don’t want to pay several hundred dollars for track time only to have those warnings etc sideline me.

If anyone has any advice about what else it could be or how to fix it I’d love to hear it. I just don’t know where else to turn!
 
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Old 11-04-2018, 06:37 AM
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Might be a heat related issue. Everything works fine until a component heats up. You might have to bite the bullet and leave the car at a reputable Aston dealer with the understanding that they will drive the car with the proper diagnostic equipment attached so when the fault occurs they can identify it before it clears itself.
Good luck.
 
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Old 11-04-2018, 09:04 AM
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When the battery no longer performs as it should it's possible for computers and messages to screw up - maybe that's whats happening - the car is 7 years old or so.
 
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Old 11-04-2018, 09:29 AM
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The heat issue could be a viable option. Not sure what could be overheating that would be causing it.

I have already replaced the battery as I thought the same thing. The battery I replaced was already a replacement. She’s on her third battery now at a minimum.
 
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Old 11-04-2018, 01:15 PM
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If waiting some amount of time always cures the symptoms, then it has to be some electronic device or module overheating. Could even be something as simple as a wire getting hot since resistance goes up with temp. This kind of intermittent failure mode is one of the most difficult to diagnose.

At this point, I suggest you put everything into a very clear, concise letter and shoot it off to the head of AML NA. You really need to get them involved so that factory engineering can be put on the case.
 

Last edited by XJRS Owner; 11-04-2018 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 07-02-2019, 08:21 AM
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Did you ever get any further with this? Curious. That's really unfortunate.
 
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Old 07-15-2019, 01:45 PM
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So, I've had no luck yet. I currently have the car at Peninsula European, under the care of Robbie. He is an ex-Aston Martin master tech who has his own shop now. I think we may have made a little progress. He drove it over the weekend and got a code for the center console module. Apparently its the module behind the radio that sport, R, , D buttons as well as the DCS etc. button below go through. He said that he has never once seen this code before and has sent off the data to a tech at Aston Martin in the UK. It sounds like either the DSC button or the module itself is temporarily coming offline and wrecking havoc on the high speed CAN. It could also be a software issue. Whichever we are waiting for the AM tech to analyze the data and come back with something.

Hopefully its a quick/cheap fix. I've already spent entirely too much money replacing unnecessary parts for this issue! I hope to report back in a weeks time with the issue finally fixed after 2+ years, 4 independent shops and 2 dealers trying to solve it!
 
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Old 08-19-2019, 05:00 PM
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My car is a2014 Vantage v8 and had exactly the same issues as yours. How did your sol

Originally Posted by Stealthssfc
So, I've had no luck yet. I currently have the car at Peninsula European, under the care of Robbie. He is an ex-Aston Martin master tech who has his own shop now. I think we may have made a little progress. He drove it over the weekend and got a code for the center console module. Apparently its the module behind the radio that sport, R, , D buttons as well as the DCS etc. button below go through. He said that he has never once seen this code before and has sent off the data to a tech at Aston Martin in the UK. It sounds like either the DSC button or the module itself is temporarily coming offline and wrecking havoc on the high speed CAN. It could also be a software issue. Whichever we are waiting for the AM tech to analyze the data and come back with something.

Hopefully its a quick/cheap fix. I've already spent entirely too much money replacing unnecessary parts for this issue! I hope to report back in a weeks time with the issue finally fixed after 2+ years, 4 independent shops and 2 dealers trying to solve it!
My car is a2014 Vantage v8 and had exactly the same issues as yours. How did your solution with me?
 
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Old 08-19-2019, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Pio
My car is a2014 Vantage v8 and had exactly the same issues as yours. How did your solution with me?
Mine still isn’t fixed. Robbie has now gotten the car to throw codes. He’s thinking it’s the actuator position sensor.

When yours had had the same issue how did you fix it? What did they find was the cause?

 
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Old 08-24-2019, 12:04 AM
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Have you recalibrated the steering angle sensor?
 
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Old 12-16-2021, 02:39 AM
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Hey mate!

Any update? My 2015 Vantage V12 S also does it intermittently and it's a bit of a pain! The dealer tells me that it might be an ABS module which has to be replaced but they are still investigating!
 
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Old 08-21-2023, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Stealthssfc
Mine still isn’t fixed. Robbie has now gotten the car to throw codes. He’s thinking it’s the actuator position sensor.

When yours had had the same issue how did you fix it? What did they find was the cause?
Hey There! Did Robbie every track it down? Have been driving my '08 V8V for a year and a half with occasional random errors (DSC / Traction Control Off) but I could still drive the car and they always went away..until this past week. Happens to be 'car week' here so I've got the car in a rally and I get a "Gear Pos Not Available" error and the car dropped out of gear. Pulled off the highway and turn off and then when trying to restart, got a "Check Battery Off Switch" - just dashes in the gear indicator area and could not start. Tried resetting the battery (used off switch in the trunk, then reactivate with lock/unlock buttons), nothing. Then I realized if I turn the key and hit the engine start button before it cycles through diagnostics, I could actually start the motor. But it still wouldn't go into gear. After pushing the drive button and pulling the paddles repeatedly it eventually did go into gear and I could drive it off. Drove another 50 miles or so and then if happened again, and this time I was unable to recover to had to get it towed to a garage. Mechanic said the battery was 8 years old, putting poor voltage was causing electrical systems to go haywire. Replaced, reset the errors, seemed all good. But sure enough happened again, same as before. Dropped out of gear while driving, had to coast to a stop, unable to restart with "Check Battery Off Switch". Let it sit over an hour, no go so had to get another tow. Hope you eventually found the root cause!
 
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Old 08-21-2023, 01:48 PM
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I have been playing with the CAN bus alot and can say that when I did something stupid like injecting a faulty CAN message or had wires disconnected, the "Check battery off switch" was always present among the other messages on the display.
Same with "DSC off", any fault in the high speed CAN and the car will go into a failsafe mode. I don't think their modules are the cause of the problem, only the symptoms.

One thing that springs to mind is a fuse.
If the fuse for example the gear module is bad it might loose connection just enough to shut down the module when it gets hot. This is unfortunatly a common failure mode of most automotive knife fuses. Measures fine when putting the meter on it but will break contact when heated up.
Might also be the fuse for the hydraulic ASM pump, probably more likely as that fuse carries a heavy load. Shouldn't that pump run for a moment with ignition or unlocking the car?
If so, do you hear it?
 
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Old 08-22-2023, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Anders S
I have been playing with the CAN bus alot and can say that when I did something stupid like injecting a faulty CAN message or had wires disconnected, the "Check battery off switch" was always present among the other messages on the display.
Same with "DSC off", any fault in the high speed CAN and the car will go into a failsafe mode. I don't think their modules are the cause of the problem, only the symptoms.

One thing that springs to mind is a fuse.
If the fuse for example the gear module is bad it might loose connection just enough to shut down the module when it gets hot. This is unfortunatly a common failure mode of most automotive knife fuses. Measures fine when putting the meter on it but will break contact when heated up.
Might also be the fuse for the hydraulic ASM pump, probably more likely as that fuse carries a heavy load. Shouldn't that pump run for a moment with ignition or unlocking the car?
If so, do you hear it?
Thanks, good tip on the fuses. ASM pump definitely runs when I open the drivers door now, don’t recall if it was when the issue was occurring. Will be good to have that fuse ready to swap, or maybe just replace preemptively. Are you familiar off hand which fuse that is?
 
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Old 11-17-2023, 02:55 PM
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Exclamation Found 3 messages on dash!!

Hello all,
fairly new owner here to a slightly used 2008 AM V8 Vantage Roadster with 39K miles. Since I bought the vehicle 3 months ago, the low tire pressure light would show on the dash. I pumped air on the front tires numerous times since I don't use the car much except for weekend rides. I finally took it to a tire shop to dismount the front 2 tires off the vehicle and we found the passenger front rim with a small leak (rims were originally chrome and recently painted black) which caused corrosion inside the rim where the wheel thread sits causing a small air leak. The tire shop brushed the area to bare metal and used a special sealant which fixed the issue, installed the tires back on and i took off with no lights or problems at all. As i was driving home at 35 mph within 5 miles from the shop and taking 1 stop in between for snacks, the infamous "Emergency assist failure, Traction control temporary off and ABS/DSC service required" lights all come on at once. A little scared and stuck in commuter traffic, I basically rolled the car at slow traffic speed until i got home. I was hoping the car would reset itself after being driven for a bit and sitting overnight but ended up taking an Uber to work. I called my mechanic who handles all sorts of low/high-end vehicles and recommended to reset the ECU.

Q & A:
Is this the best approach?
Did the tire shop using an impact gun vs a torque wrench damage a sensor?
Also, would I need to do something different like turning off traction control, or turning the battery switch off before jacking up the car up in the future?
Is jacking up an AM forbidden and requires an actual lift for all preventive maintenance service?





Sorry for the long story just wanted to be thorough.
 
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