Me again. I'm unable to get the starter to engage. The car has full voltage, everything looks normal, but the car starter won't turn. After putting the engine back in I had a couple times where I had to press harder to get the starter to work, but now I have nothing. Gauges work, AC works, fuel pump turns on, voltmeter reads 12.X volts, 13+ with the charger on.

My durametric shows the cruise control readiness changes state from on to off when I move the switch. But the clutch switch remains in the state of "not actuated." I'm convinced the switch works.

I just replaced the battery due to what I think is a bad voltage regulator, but haven't gotten to that yet because I can't get the engine started. The car basically stopped running while I was driving it, which was fun. Voltage was well under 12 volts, haven't been able to start it since.

What the heck is going on?? Are these issues related?

 

Batter is on the charger, Durametric reads 13.10 volts under supply voltage. And I have this warning on the dash.

 

i cant help beyond being obvious and suggesting it might be VR or alt related. since thats the error msg. but i find the dash error msgs to be terribly generic and often the issue isnt what they suggest.

i would begin back where you began. alt/gen/battery.

 

I think it is the VR/alternator as well. But why won't my clutch switch show being activated in the durametric??

 

Try bump starting it.

 

It has been a really long time since I've bump started a car. If I get to that point I might just push it directly into the bay.
I've got the alternator at an alternator repair shop. His initial test result showed it was fine and he was going to dig in more. I've got a VR on order in the meantime.

 

Even with a totally toast alternator - as long as the battery is good, you should be able to start the car. Put a jumper on the clutch switch and try starting (car in neutral). Make sure you have a really good battery.

Any alternator issues have nothing to do with starting - don't fix that stuff expecting it to help with a starting issue.

 

No question these things are related/not related. As described above, my durametric does not show the clutch switch changing state even when jumpering the cables. And, of course, nothing happens when turning the key. I now have a brand new battery and it was fully charged over night. Nothing doing.
Today I'm going to recheck my ground strap and starter solenoid. These were both recently re-installed with the engine, so I'm doubtful that they have jiggered loose after about 50 miles of driving. But perhaps the solenoid itself has gone bad.
Do you have a durametric and could you check to see if the clutch switch changes state?
In the related/unrelated issue, the alternator itself checked out okay, so the new voltage regulator goes on this afternoon. Just to eliminate any issues going forward.

 

This is why you bump start it. Or just change the clutch switch. Or like above stated, jump the clutch switch itself so it's not needed. The car will run w/ a junk alternator as long as the battery is new. It should at least start.

 

And now you know why I am posting. It is not starting.
The car literally quit running while I was driving it. Bump starting would be a more attractive option if I knew for sure why the car quit in the first place. And compound that with the starter not engaging and you have a rather frustrating situation. I'm going to eliminate the alternator as a potential problem, but that is not going to help with getting the car started.

 

Change the clutch switch or bypass it for now.

 

I have new clutch switch and VR in my hot little hands right now. I'm going to sneak out of the office right now and put them in. I'll update later so you can sleep tonight.

 

New clutch switch, new voltage regulator, no change to car. See Durametric readout below. Does this mean my immobilizer is on??

 

Not a fan of bump starting a car.

If the starter doesn't engage that can be due to a number of things. Ignition switch. Bad clutch clutch switch. Key RFID is not received/recognized. Voltage too low to activate starter solenoid.

Ignition switch: Try wiggling/pushing/pulling key while turning the key to on/start to see if you can affect the non-start behavior or cause some anomalous dash light behavior.

You replaced the clutch switch. It is not unknown for a new one to be bad. (When I had one replaced in my Boxster and the no start symptom reappeared after a bit the tech said the new switch might be bad, or when the clutch is depressed the clutch switch plunger isn't contacted correctly and thus not pushed down enough to close the switch.)

If you have a Durametric if the key RFID is not working right you should be able to access the security module and pull any codes. The process is when the key is turned an RF signal is broadcast from an antenna behind the key surround. This signal energizes the RFID pill in the key module and causes it to transmit its RFID. This is received by the antenna and carried to the security module where it is converted into digital and the resulting number is searched for in the security module's table of RFIDs. If the RFID is not found then the starter solenoid is not powered.

What is the battery voltage at the battery with the key on? A bad alternator or voltage regulator can cause too much battery power be routed to the alternator to energize its rotor so as it spins inside the stator power is made. If there is a problem too much battery power could be routed to the alternator to the point there is not enough battery power to cause the starter solenoid to work.

(It is possible that during engine start no power is routed to the alternator to save all the battery power for starting. If this is the case then the above doesn't apply.)

But this all started with the engine dying I take out of the blue.

Thus what I like for the engine dying while running is the alternator output fell off enough that only the battery was supplying the electrical needs of the car.

I saw this happen with a Panamera in the local dealer service department.

And I experienced something close with my Turbo. After some minutes of engine run time the battery voltage dropped to around 12V, due to as it turned out the alternator output declined. I got the car home before the engine quit and then got the car to the local dealer where the tech id'd the alternator as the problem and installed a factory re-manufactured alternator. A few more dollars than an OEM replacement but re-manufactured alternator came with a 2 year warranty.

 

Thanks for that. I believe I've isolated this to the immobilzer and key. I've started a new thread just to get a new subject line and easier to search in the future.