Hi All,

On Friday I was ridding and at some point the cluster wrote that the temperature was to high, so I pulled over, by the time I parked the red light (low coolant?) appeared. I stopped the engine and called the towing. Waiting foir the towing I check in front and both fans aren't working and a minute later something broke and threw the coolant everywhere...

Car back home I start to check what happened and I find two things, 1st the left side tank of the radiator is cracked open, second thing, the fan is disintegrating, like I can pull parts of the plastik with my hands, the whole assembly is falling apart and I have full of little parts on the undertray.

Question #1: Has anyone experienced this situation with their V8 Vantage?
Question #2: How do I remove the radiator because it seems attached to the AC rad
Question #3: Anyones know if there is an upgrade for radiator and fans available for our cars?

Thanks to all.

 

I’m away but when I get back I’ll post with info on replacement rad and fans. There is a Jaguar direct replacement as I recall.

 

So a couple years back I took out my 2006 Vantage v8 twin fans and rad. I noted the Jaguar part number and a quick cross reference check. The rad in my AM V8V fit a Jaguar XK8 (1998-2002) and a Jaguar XKR (2000-2006). The rad was not difficult to remove. Good time for a coolant flush.

NOTE: Around 2009 Aston changed the twin fan setup and use a different part - not sure if they also changed the rad.

The following rads are cross reference matches for the pre 2009 Vantage V8 (and several other models) OE radiator (Both Behr/Hella and Nissens are quality makes):

Nissens Part #: MJB4190AF
Behr/Hella Part #: 376764041
Duralast Part #: D2657
Spectra Part #: D2657

Sorry, I didn't make note of the twin fan part # but recall it also being a Jaguar labelled part, quite likely matches the same vehicles but you best confirm that by checking the Jag part # on the fan when you remove it. Pretty sure it was a Johnson's Control OE part.

 

Hi again, I got on my shop pc today and took a quick look to see if it had any more info from when I removed the rad and fans. The fan is indeed a Jaguar part. Removing the fan is quick and easy. If I recall correctly the AC condenser was attached to the rad so I evacuated that, disconnected all lines and removed both at the same time. I do recall it being much easier than any BMW I had worked on so kudos to the Brits for that.



top cover off and fan removed - couple of clips and a wire harness

Close up of Jaguar stamp on AMv8 twin fans

This is the fan assembly removed. Mine uses a BTM fan controller (BTM went defunct)

Twin fan assembly and rad removed

Twin fan assembly and rad removed

 

Thank you for all the information!

The Niessens rad will be shipped to my door for 200$ for a new one.

The fans, I found they are the same as the Jaguar XK8 (1998-2002) and a Jaguar XKR (2000-2006) as you posted earlier.

The only thing is that I don't see the metal and electrical wire on the Jaguar's. The gray metal thing, is that what you call the BTM Controller? If so, how do you test it?

Thanks.

 

I just noted the fan module seems to be an add-on by Aston Martin - You may have to use the old one from your original fan assembly. The fan modulator (as AM call it) has a separate part number: 4G43-37-10479 and was used up till 2009 on Vantages. It is also the same setup on DB9's from 2004-2010.

Most of these e-fan controllers operate on a PWM signal wire in addition to 12v. How to test it on an Aston Martin? Geez - I dunno - I wrote a 57 page guide for diagnosing & testing e-fans on BMW's using INPA or ISTA by sending various PWM signals - the same setup is used by Ford, Mazda, Volvo - even Audi - might be applicable to the AM?. Here's what I've learned though that is common across many makers - When they fail to come on it is often a (lower rad hose area) coolant temp sensor that is not sending the correct signal to the ECU. Other times the AC pressure sensor fails and does not send the correct signal. Again I'm not versed with the ECU logic of AM but here's how it works on a bimmer (and Volvo & Mazda & Ford - cause I've used their Bosch fan modules on BMW fan assemblies) There are various inputs (Speed, Ambient temp, coolant temp, ac pressure status, load etc.) all provide input into the engine ECU (DME) and it makes an algebraic logic calculation on the output e-Fan speed(s) based on that. It controls the e-fan speed (or activation of a second fan) via a variable Pulse Width Modulated signal to the e-fan controller (That's the BTM box on my AMv8). If an input fails it uses a default value in certain conditions, often if primary inputs fail (coolant temp sensor, ac pressure sensor etc.) - the e-fan typically defaults to high speed at all times to prevent potential overheat.) A layman test is to unplug the coolant temp sensor and the fan should default to high speed - doesn't tell you that all the various speeds work however - just that your e-fan can received commands from the ECU and spins.

Now - there was several cases of disintegrating BMW viscous clutch mechanical fans a few years back where the fan blades either became unbalanced (they have tiny little clip weights on the blades to balance like wheel weights). Worn bearings can also cause an unbalanced fan blade. Once a fan is out of balance centrifugal forces can cause it to wobble - eventually the blade collides with something (usually the fan assembly frame ) and they shatter - I've seen pics of plastic fan blades come through the hood.

 

Ok just confirmed that the fan controller for the AMV8 is a separate item - See the pic below of the e-fan for a Vantage (Jaguar) being sold by Aston Martin Bits. - They have removed the fan control module & fan assembly harness to sell separately. I would just buy the Jaguar xk* fan and swap over the old fan module - test it - by turning on AC after starting or start it after disconnecting the coolant temp sensor.

Noting the firm making this part (BTM) is now defunct I wonder how many of these controllers are actually available in stock? If mine ever goes I'll probably end up figuring how to splice in a compatible Bosch PWM fan interpreter in it's place.


e-fan assy on sale by Aston Bits - note the fan module is removed.


Edit: One last item. On other car makes the ECU tests the fan at startup. What it does is send a brief 20% PWM signal to the fan(s) to test if they spin. The fan module conducts the test by measuring the resultant RPM (the fan briefly becomes a spinning generator and puts back volts) and the fan module considers this value (volts) against an acceptable range. If everything is ok - no error - if the returned value < or > than the range an error is communicated and posted in the ECU. Not sure if the AM works the same but this approach was/is common for Euro car makers since around 1998 - especially for all Ford brands. Would be worth scanning the engine ECU for fan related errors if you are concerned about the BTM fan module.

Edit #2: 4G43-37-10479 (Fan Modulator)This setup was used on Vantages from 2006 up till 2009 and DB9's from 2004 to 2010. The maker of this part BTM (Brushless Technology Motors) out of Italy went defunct several years back.


BTM Fan Modulator Part # 4G43-37-10479 - Used on Vantages 2006-2009 and DB9's 2004-2010.

 

Mine died and was able to find one, but not cheap and it will most likely fail again. My fans quit too, as the failure caused the fans to run continual. I am going to look into a work around and will post anything I discover here. This issue will happen to many and a viable solution will be appreciated by all. Anyone else discovering any helpful info, please post. The above posts sure make me glad I am a member and compels me to further assist others here.

 

A little premature yet, and since my twin fans are working properly I lack motivation but I believe there can be a simple working solution for the future. Not only do certain Jaguars use a version of the BTM fan controller but there was an upgraded smaller version (already cloned by the Chinese) that may be perfectly compatible. It is used to drive twin fans on Ford brands using the same PWM setup as that used by the Aston Martin ECM.

The fan module substitution (interchangeability) key link you will need is the following : 1x43-8C290

- There was an old version (looks identical to the BTM fan module used on my V8) and a replacement new version used on Jaguar, Volvo, Mazda and other Ford brands, where there are twin fan setups. These fan controllers will likely be compatible although I think the pigtails may need to be customised (replaced) for a direct fit - I won't know till I order one and test. I'll likely do that as needed (if mine fail) The fan controllers are reasonably priced under $100 for genuine and less than $15 for the knockoffs - a substantial difference to the $700-$800 for the used ones listed by the main Aston parts suppliers. I have no idea what an AM dealer would charge for this part - likely a 4 figure amount which is absurd.


1x43-8C290


Edit:
If you are stuck in the meantime and need ASAP a new compatible twin fan assembly and cowl and fan module - there is an online Jaguar new parts dealer out of Michigan (Forum rules say I can't post a link or name) that sells the Jaguar genuine (complete assembly with fan module for $850.50 - search using part number XR847278 - it looks like the photo below



Replacement twin fan setup complete (including fan module) for Aston Martin Vantage V8 2006-2009 & DB9 2004-2010 $850.50

 

So it look like something burned, I don't know what is it and why it happend.

Any comments or suggestion?

 

Oh also I got the following codes:

• P0117 - ECT Sensor Circuit Low Input
• P0119 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
• P0480 - Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit Malfunction
• P1488 - Volt Supply Voltage Low Condition
• P2073 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/ Mass Air Flow - Throttle Position Correlation at Idle

 

Can you decipher any of the marking on the burned up part other than the G6? (that is the lot code, which won't help in this case) if you can figure out what it is, very simple to replace. (assuming it blew because of an overload on the circuit, and not some other internal fault). Did you have to break the case to open it, or are there screws?
matt

 

I gave up trying to fix these on BMW's - what i found was they were easier to replace. Mind you BMW fan modules can be had for under $100, unlike the $800 they want for a used Aston fan module.

If you are interested there is a chap who put together a youtube video for replacing the burned out components of the same fan module on the Jag.


I'd also check out the coolant temp sensor errors though from that log posted - the ECT (Engine coolant temperature) is usually taken at the head - does the V8V have another coolant temp sensor on the rad output?? If not then the ECT will be a primary input to the ECM - if the primary input goes bad many fans default on high speed - this may have burned out components of the fan module???

I can hear my fans shift speed when I come to idle after a spirited drive then I hear them decrease speed as the vehicle V increases.

 

I recognize the 3 pin devices with the heat sinks. At least 2 of them are N type MOSFETS (the L3705N, and the IRC6213). You can think of a MOSFET as a digital switch, it has an input, an output and a gate (aka switch) that turns on and off the device. They are what provides power to the fan in a "pulse width modulated" fashion that makes the fan go faster/slower/off.

What appears to have happened is that it over heated (duh) and burned up. If I had to guess it's because the heat sink lost contact with the metal tab. Normally you'd screw them down, but in this case it looks the top is spring loaded to the device. Any decent high power N type would do nicely and anyone handy with a soldering iron could boot strap/wire into it. Probably want to make sure that the heat sinks have good contact with the devices.

YMMV,
Larry

 

No I can't. It really is too burned.