ok guys, So I removed the engine the other day. I have read the thread on 'what to replace while my engines out' and already have a list of things I am replacing anyway. While I am doing the work I decided to remove the rear water manifold (and potentially the top one) and rebond the pipes and pin them, even though they are not leaking at all.

Can anyone confirm what actually needs to be done to remove it....? I have obviously got the 4 main bolts out that hold the engine bracket, the 3 coolant pipes at the top are undone but not off the stubs as they are rock solid on there, I may need to cut the pipes and replace them.

I have removed the oil lines from the bottom , the hard pipe fixings and cant see much else but it is seemingly still attached somewhere, does anyone have any pictures of when they removed theirs please?

Also is it worth fitting the sharkwerks elbows as well? Looks like a bit of work to get to replace and install them. thanks

'' the aim of the maintenance is to replace turbo lines and turbos, but while its out I may as well attend to other potential big ticket items!

One other thing, what are people doing to pressure test the coolant system before I refit the motor? any pictures of the setup your using would be appreciated

 

Regards pressure testing the coolant system, Im guessing people use a bung in one of the main coolant pipes (the thermostat one) and some kind of a homebaked adapter into the other coolant pipe? then put a vacuum test on it? thanks again

 

I am in the middle of my engine out tasks. You want to get rid of most of the stuff on top of the engine to get to any of the coolant stuff, including the manifold that sits under the oil coolers and has the plastic elbows you want to replace with the SharkWerks items.

For the pipes, if you are talking about the pipes that can let loose in the cooling system, I would not cut them off. You have two choices: heat them up and rotate them out or just pin them in place. If you pull them you can clean them up and re-glue them and then pin them OR weld them. Cutting them was never on my radar.

While I plan on removing the manifold on the top of the engine with the plastic elbows, I do not plan to pull the manifolds with the water pipes that are glued regardless of what I find or how I approach fixing them. I will fix them in place (with everything removed and out of the way).

I am going to start removing that top manifold over the next couple of days and will post anything that might be helpful.

The engine currently looks like:



This is everything I removed after the engine came out:



I will probably put together a hybrid DIY based on what you have to use in the Workshop Manuals plus whatever I have run into doing the work.

Ed

 

Hi ed, nice info thanks buddy.
yes I wasnt referring to cutting the metal pipes on the rear water manifold... but was referring to slicing the ends of the rubber ones that attach the water manifold outlets to the block. The reason being is because they are on very tight and Im replacing rhem anyway.

is there a reason your not removing the rear water manifold? It makes rebonding the pipe outlets a tonne easier. Also means I can replace the rubber couplers from it easier too i removed the oil lines from the manifold already, just wondering if its stuck on by the orings in the two pipes that fix under the engine..

Anyone else got a suggestion on pressure testing the coolant system once my work is done?

for me I need to remove the rear water mani because I want to get to a leaking chain guide bolt that sits behind it.
i will post some pics as I progress.

 

There doesnt seem as many 997tt pipe failures in the uk as usa, not sure if its the ambient temp is lower or its a myth. My engine is bone dry and all joints are rock solid so it seems a pain to replace it all 😆

 

Does anyone have any pdf they could send me that details the procedure? I have WM100137 but I cant find it in there? Just wondering if there is a seperate one Im missing? Have other pdfs to trade! thanks

 

I've been looking through the docs I have and I am not sure I see anything for the rear coolant housing by itself.

Like I said I will be there on my engine shortly and if I run into any doc along the way I will let you know.

I will decide on removing or leaving it in place one I get to it, but if it's going to be easier pinning with it out I will do that.

Ed

 

I will have mine off tomorrrow, think I've sussed it out, just got to remove some more bits but going to check with the 996 guys and try and get confirmation!
If your going to the trouble of stripping the engine down , the way I see it is its better to rebond the pipes and then not have to worry again (vs pinning them with the old sealant). Besides welding them, which I am not keen on as there is no one round here I would trust to do it, this is the best option I have found and is what I will be doing


Replacing all the turbo lines seems to need a fair bit removed as well so I am just going to renew what needs it and any seals and orings I can, plus sharkwerks elbows and redo the coolant manifold. Looks like removing inlet manfolds will clear the area a bit so will do that. The parts list keeps growing!

 

I'll be de-bonding and re-bonding the pipes. Look what popped out in my hand as I was digging through the top of the engine:



I was looking for a step by step, but most of the pinning write ups are doing it while the engine is in, so I just decided to start removing what I felt was necessary to get to the coolant lines running across the engine.

I also looked through the docs but the best overview I could find was the D&A engine stuff, which was helpful. The only thing I got hung up on was the pipe holder/wire harness chase on the driver side. I saw the write up somewhere in a WM, I just have to find it again.

Starting another table of parts, this one is the one for what I have to remove to make the cooling system bulletproof.

Here is what it looks like now:



Ed

 

This is great stuff Ed

 

I did mine in December,
http://www.boxster-cayman-911.com/in...-997tt/page-14

 

NIce work, keep the pictures coming
I will be getting mine to a similar place over the next few days given a chance to work on it. As usual in the UK I cant get the sharkwerks elbows easily, so I am considering what to do about that, may just replace with the OEM ones, they will be good for a good long time seeing as they are'nt known for giving issues in the UK anyway on the 997s.

Yes the D&A engine stuff is helpful although the only bit I actually wanted to confirm is the coolant manfold which isnt in there.

I've been having a real task getting the exhaust gas sensors out of the turbos, the other lines I have pretty much given up on and am replacing all for now. I decided to just get new EGT sensor assembly so rang for price off the OPC, price was about $850 which I wasn't happy to hear... so I am going to carry on working on my fully working ones and get them out somehow. I only have MAP to heat the turbo, could really do with an oxy torch... will see on that one hopefully they will come out.
I also have got to replace the two big oil return pipes, one that goes from the oil cooler behind the block and then into the big nut on the casing bank 1 side, and the other one that snakes from bank one, along the bottom of the coolant manifold and up to the oil tank. Corrosion from uk weather has not been kind to the metal to rubber joining piece so it makes sense to do them now

 

You mean the O2 sensors? I thought mine were going to be a ***** but they came out relatively easily. I did wait until I had the exhaust off the engine for two of them (I think) and that made it easier to get the leverage I needed.

That's good about the elbows in the UK, however I have always opted for metal over plastic when I can find it of course.

I was getting paranoid about the cam pinning job but I saw a video this AM about camshafts and install/timing that set me at ease, so I started digging into the removal process full force:

Current engine state:



3rd table of parts (all specific to getting to the actual R&R jobs):



Taking a break to paint my shed, will be back at it tonight.

Ed

 

No these



They locate into the bottom of each turbo and need removing to replace the turbos. The threads on one of mine doesnt look in great condition near the start of the thread, It was so tight it seems to have flattened the thread pitch on removal. I am going to try and find out what size and pitch die I need and will see if I can clean the thread up. Considering its a $850 + part it would be great if I can reuse them as they work perfectly.

I managed to view and manually create the document from PIWIS online paid access (as its not pdfs anymore sadly..) for removing the coolant housing, there is a specific document for it. The top front coolant housing has to come off first... , then the steps I have done. The small torx in the centore of the manifold at the bottom doesnt need to come out it sppears.
Which will be why mine wont come off..!. So I will now be stripping it down to a similar state to yours as soon as I get chance

Do you have a parts and seals list made yet? Would be good to compare on that to see if I missed anything. thanks

 

Oh those things, I have them on still. They have not gotten in the way, but it looks like to get to the chain guides I need to move the front manifold. So both front and rear will be off at some point.

The list is in flux and has a bunch of crap you don't need, but here it is.

I will finalize it soon and make the rest of the adjustments for new O rings, etc I found I needed (mainly for the pin cam task).

Ed