I have the HFS 2/3 kit. But I'm going to use braided lines and heat shielding material as well as custom fittings and a fuel cell to house the meth. We will likely tap both ends of the Y pipe and use two 600cc nozzles.

 

We didn't have such great experience with the Boost Juice to be honest. Not sure why, but it didn't seem to work as well as the pure meth/water mixture. Better to stick with a mixture of meth/water so it's not combustible. With a plastic intake manifold, you want to be very careful....one backfire into the manifold and poof!!...game over.

Not sure which one longboarder has, but we installed the HFS4-V3 on our customer's car. It's their newest kit, supposedly designed to work a little bit better with direct injection but who knows for sure. It's the first one we've installed, so the only one I can comment on.

 

We've tuned 100s of boosted direct injected BMW N54s with the Aquamist HFS-4 kits in the past few years. 997.2 being DFI, you'd really want to go with the HFS-4 kit as it is intended for direct injection setups. On the 997.1 you'd go with the HFS-3. Both kits have the necessary/same failsafes in place with turbine based flow sensors that work on the Hall Effect principle with the turbine sitting in the path of the fluid flow and a sensor on the outside picking up turbine movement, similar to how your crank position sensor works for instance.

You don't want to use Boost Juice with the Aquamist kits. Aquamist only recommends pure meth or blends with distilled water. The dye in Boost Juice can/will cause issues over time.

Our recommendation would be to run 100% meth. It is marginally more flammable than a 50/50 blend. Keep in mind that meth is a fuel and water doesn't combust. Water is great for preventing pre-ignition and cooling in-cylinder temps but often times people will spray more than necessary causing power to be pulled out from the tune (i.e. fire to be put out heh). Devil's always in the details and as a general rule, just stick with 100% meth and have the Aquamist kit inject based on IDC and load (i.e. boost). We're looking at one of the recent additions on the V3 revision of the HFS-4 kits where its possible to hook up an EGT signal wire and use that for flow as well as failsafety which is pretty neat.

Feel free to ask any questions or email me at dzenno@protuningfreaks.com if anyone's got any other questions on Aquamist installs. We've got our shop's 997.2 wired up and running with the Aquamist HFS-4 as well at this point. The failsafe is confirmed to be working as well which, speaking to Aquamist reps, we're the first on this platform to pull off successfully! We haven't gotten to installing the HFS-3 just yet on the 997.1.

Dzenno@PTF

 

0-100 mph 5.997 seconds
0-150 mph 13.311 seconds

on pump Calicraptane 91

 

I actually believe the car could achieve those results on pump 91 gas and a pump 91 tune with an NHRA prepped surface to allow for maximum traction, but in this case (dusty Airstrip) traction was horrible and I wasn't on 91 gas. I had 108 octane race gas in my tank, BUT I was on the 91 octane tune. GIAC gives you a device to hook up to the OBD port to switch maps - 1) pump tune and 2) race tune.

After Austin reflashed me Sunday morning, it never occurred to me to plug in the GIAC device to switch maps. When you get flashed, the program, as I recently learned, always defaults you to the pump map. I found this out later after the event was over and I went to the gas station to fill up for the drive home. I plugged in the GIAC device to switch to the pump tune for the drive home and realized I was already on the pump tune...so all my races on Sunday were on the pump tune!

Now, I'm sure I was making more power running the race gas as compared to pump gas, but without switching to the race tune, I was down quite a bit of power...maybe 20-40 who knows.

 

I edited Post 1 to include my 100-200mph result on the same run @ 5.608 seconds.